Fire safety in racecars... Need advice

[cstreit]

I was watching another one of those "Sports Disasters" shows and it got me thinking...

1. What's with those "sprint" and "funny" cars? Seems like they catch fire a LOT. Are they not required to have fuel cells? THey seem to dump fuel in many of the serious accidents.

2. My small handheld Halon fire extinguisher has never given me any confidence. I mean really. If I'm upside down and disoriented, I honestly doubt I'll have the presense of mind to unhook it from the floor, pull the pin, and shoot it off.


SO.... Anyone have recommendations for an inexpensive bottle system that's easily installed? Any tips and tricks? As I build the car for faster and faster times, I think even more about safety.

[jluetjen]

I agree Chris. As far as an "inexpensive system", that's sort of like a "Cheap" helmet. Most of the well known fire systems that I've seen sold from Pegasus, Truechoice, Essex, etc have comparable pricing on the global scheme of things. Note that the SCCA's minimum size requirement if 5 lb. So your basic hand held (2.5 lbs?) is not sufficient. Looking at the Pegusus site, I noticed a few things...

First this notice:

We regret that until further notice, we will not be able to ship any SPA Halon fire bottles. SPA Halon fire bottles are approved by BSI, MSA and fully conform to the latest FIA regulations for use in the rest of the world, however, they are not currently approved by the US Dept. of Transportation (DOT) for shipment in the USA.

I had a FireBottle system ($309 for pull cable or push butten versions) in my IT car and it seemed nicely put together. Nothing flashy, but more then good enough for the job. Fortunately I never had to use it so I can't answer to how it works. The currently unavailable SPA systems are AFFF or Halon. The Halon systems are $435 for the 5 lb Halon systems and $429 for the SCCA minimum size of 2.25 liters for AFFF. From the pictures in the Catelog, the SPA systems appear to be finished a little nicer, and are shorter and fatter so they might be easier to fit into a given space.


Truechoice seems to be selling the SPA AFFF system for ~$350, but they may have the same issues with getting or shipping them.

[MarkP]

Below are some photos of my system installed behind the passenger seat with the red pull handle on the right side of the dash. The system splits off with 3 nozzels - engine compartment, trunk/fuel and under the dash.

I can't remember the exact price, $299 or $399???? Anyway, call Emory's http://www.partsobsolete.com/

[addictionMS]

I always think about this write up from the guy at BellMotorsports when I think about fire, it is long but interesting.

WARNING: IS SFI-5 ENOUGH?
So that everyone basically understands safety burn ratings, here are some facts:
SFI-1= 13 seconds, SFI-5 =19 seconds, TPP, the Industry standard.
EXAMPLE: A brand new SFI-1,one layer proban (or nomex) suit without underwear might have a TPP, under ideal conditions of 13 seconds. (In reality, due to wear, impurities, etc., closer to 9.5.) ALARM, that is the awareness of heat, would occur in 3.1 seconds. PAIN would occur in 3.4 seconds, and actual BURN would start at 6.5 seconds - under ideal conditions. Cut those times in half for a worn suit, or one with oil residue stains. (Underwear would add some additional safety margin) These are the same standards used for the Fire Fighting Industry, and the Military. (Military pilots and firefighters are all required to wear fire retardant underwear) The difference is, a jet pilot can hit the ejection seat, and a fireman can retreat. A race driver cannot: he must first bring his car to a stop, unbuckle, then clear the window net or cowling. (Note that even at 50 mph., all time is used just to bring the car to a stop.)

This is not to scare you, these facts are so you can make a sound judgement on the level of safety you will feel comfortable with. Do you have an on-board fire system? Is it of sufficient capacity? Is the engine in front or behind you? Fuel cell? All steel lines? No holes in the firewall? What is the relative danger of the course you are on - i.e., 1/4 mile oval with banking, or road race with all concrete barrier walls and no run off areas? Top speed? Based on all of the foregoing, my suit would be an SFI-5 with Firewear underwear and 100% cotton Tee shirt. (On days above 75 degrees, I would also soak the Firewear underwear in cold water for added comfort/protection.) That's for road or oval track - for drag I would be in an SFI-15, if I was burning any race fuel, otherwise SFI-5. (Except Stock cars.)

It goes without saying, a closed face SA rated helmet is a must. Long hair, moustache, or beard require a balaclava (headsock). For closed cars (windshield) the visor may be worn open for air flow. (On impact it will usually close to protect against flying glass and flames - or may be closed manually.) Here, I will also mention the use of a contoured collar (not 360 degrees round), can more than double the protection against neck injury. But, let's get to the other considerations - hands and feet. Many sanctioning bodies allow leather for shoes and gloves. Leather transfers heat almost instantly, and shrinks with sufficient force to crush foot/hand bones. Any man made plastic or rubber will burn, or worse, melt and can imbed into the skin, requiring skin grafting. You must use your hands and feet in a fire, yet, they have TPP ratings of less than your drivers suit. Any scar tissue on your ankles or hands will severely limit use. Nomex socks are a must, and I don't mean dirty or worn thin. I personally would not think of driving with a plastic, leather or rubber shoe. The same goes for gloves. With the advent of fire resistant materials, and now Kevlar, no one need settle for inferior materials and take unnecessary fire risk.

A word of caution for all drivers, crew, workers - even spectators. Only 100% cotton or wool garments should be worn. Polyester, blends and acrylics melt, and when next to skin will require skin grafting. It is not a pretty sight. 50/50 Tee shirts and acrylic socks are the worst offenders. Also, check jackets and sweatshirts.

While Kevlar is expensive, we use it whenever possible in our products in lieu of leather. We try to use leather only as an applique for wear, and it is designed so that upon being subjected to fire, it will fall off due to the shear action on the thread caused by shrinkage. Our PRO Series shoes are constructed of nomex outer, an insulating silica foam heat barrier, and kevlar liner, and while TPP rated a "5" - approach 15. The man made "sole" of our shoes is laminated to a leather outer sole, and the inside construction is multiple layers of insulite, kevlar and nomex for extreme protection. These construction techniques are time consuming, but offer lighter weight, greater feel, comfort and extreme protection. Remember Bell's old advertisement, "If you have a $10 head, wear a $10 helmet"? Remember "Safety equipment is like a chain - it is only as good as its weakest link." Why have a firesuit that protects you if your going to have a broken neck or loose your hands or feet in a fire?

Bob Booth

[addictionMS]

Having said all that, I have a 5lb Halon system, and carry a hand held as well. Here in CA most fires are from a spark under the car catching the grass on fire, and an in car system will do nothing to save you car from that.

I have also noticed that Hank Watts when driving always pulls the pin on the fire system so all it takes is a push of the button, I don't, but I think it might be the right idea.

I mounted my bottle up under the dash where the gloce box used to be. Plus double and tripple mount that sucker, in our Rx7 we had a 10lb system really well mounted, but when I hit the wall at about 40 mph it came loose. Opened my eyes about how must force is in an inpact, and you don't want a 5 or 10lb bottle flying around in the cockpit withyou (or anyting else for that matter so check it all)

Here is why Sprint cars catch on fire, plastic fuel cells...




Jim

[jluetjen]

I agree, 5lbs is the minimum. I'll be going with a 10lb system in my 911.

The other point that you brough up is a good one. The fire systems will only work if you arm it by removing the safety pin. Trying to pull the pin in an accident is a sure loser. In many cases I've heard that drivers will hit the button before they hit the wall so that the system is going off while the accident is happening. I've never popped my system in anger, so I can't comment on that. Anyhow, a good idea is to tie a long (3-6 foot) piece of brightly colored steamer tape to the pin so that it is painly obvious to the naked eye that the pin is still installed. Someone on the crew should have responsiblity to see that the pin is removed prior to on-track sessions and replaced after the car returns to the paddock.

[makaio]

Chris at your level you should have a dedicated system in your car. As Jim stated in his reply, you do not want to get burnt ( this coming from a fireman who has been burnt before).

IMHO the best product on the market right now is the AFFF systems. The only brand name I know is Firecharger. You can see their product at: www.firecharger.com

As I have stated before, Halon is a great extinguising agent in enclosed areas, such as in a race car driver's seat or closed computer room, but not an open engine compartment. But it can displace any remaining oxygen that might still be in the cabin. It's biggest atribute is that it leaves no residue.

The benefits of AFFF is that it is better at extinguishing combustible or flammable liquids (gas), it has much greater heat absorbtion (keeps you from getting burnt as easy), you can refill it at the track, and it doesn't displace oxygen.

Think about this, I know of no fire engines that cary a Halon extinguisher on it.

Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with Firecharger, just impresses with their product.

[cstreit]

ThankS Matt...

I have an foam system as my pit-bottle for just those reasons!

[Jeroen]

I'm in Europe, so the SFI ratings don't mean much to me... Everything has to be FIA spec here.

Closed cars must have a 4kg (about 10lbs) fire system on board.
A plumbed in system is the only way to go IMO for anything more serious than DE
Nozzles aimed at the fuel tank/cell, driver and engine.
2 pull cables to activate the system (also available with an electric discharge for a small premium). One in the cockpit with in easy reach of the driver and one outside the car for the emergency crew (in case you are unable to pull it yourself - god forbid), just like the electric cut off...

Look at the "big racing brands", like Sparco, MOMO or OMP. They all sell these systems for about $400

cheers,

Jeroen

[Schrup]

This is the system I've been considering myself.
http://www.apexperformance.net/securestore/c195357.2.html

[makaio]

Paul, that's the FireCharger system and is AFFF foam. A good choice.

[Jeroen]

Get the biggest (4.6 liter) bottle!

cheers,

Jeroen