Data Logger (IQ3) mounting
 

Hi all, I am considering buying a Racepak IQ3 GPS/logger and am looking for ways to mount it in front of the tach without punching holes in anything. I'll have a tach readout on the logger so the stock tach can come out. Any ideas?
Thanks!

I've sold about 15 of these to 911 guys (give me a shout if interested) and the mounting varied quite a bit from the installs I've seen. I will say that none were mounted without drilling holes. In order to get accurate readouts from the unit it must be firmly attached to the chassis.

You'll end up mounting it to the dash to get this. Most common install was a few studs attached through the dash and to a plate that the Iq3 was mounted to. This will leave just a few small holes in the dash-fabric, noticeable yes, but not wholesale destruction.

Depending on your fabrication skills, there IS a way to do this. I did this for one customer. I removed the tach entirely. Then welded up a flattened X shape who's edges overlapped the inside edges of the hole. Then a similar one on the other side made a "clamp" that I bolted together. Then I mounted the IQ3 to the outside mount.

You will still get some noticeable marks on the fabric of the dash, but no holes. This will not be sufficient for racing cars becase it leaves an opening for fuel intrusion.

Mine is mounted to the steering column immediately in front of the tach. But this is in a 964, so it may not apply to 911. I can snap a pic tonight if it would help.

I am not familiar with that model but I just used velcro and stuck my Traqmate to the instrument face. I put it on the speedo though. My fab skills are limited.

Wth the IQ3 the dash and receving unit is combined into one unit, so there is no external computer like on the G2X. This makes it a bit heavier and a solid mount is really going to give you better data.

I'm not sure where the steering column changed but on my '70 the plastic would not be firm enough to give good results and keep it in place in the event of a rollover. In the 993 the whole assembly rotates. You might get away with velcro on a seperate display type unit like a G2X but the IQ3 will require more firm mounting for best results.

FYI here is a link to the mounting dimensions and unit dimension diagrams:

Click here for link.

Here are some pics of my mounting; it is quite solid. The two red buttons in the lower dash are for programming. The IQ3 is just far enough away from the guages that I can get the serial cable in for advanced programming.

http://www.kurquhart.net/photos/Pors...r/IMG_0796.JPG

http://www.kurquhart.net/photos/Pors...r/IMG_0802.JPG

Looks good Kris. What did you bolt that mounting plate to on the column?

First, I should have given credit to the guys at Mirage; they were the clever ones, not me.

If you remove the top plastic shroud off of the blinker assembly, then there is a steel plate exposed. This also opens up nice room to route the cables up from under the dash to the top of the steering column.

As you noted before, it will rotate, but it takes quite a bit of force to get it to turn. I actually use this "feature" to align the lateral accelerometers. But once I get it set, it doesn't appear to move from event to event.

Nice mount Kris. As I recall, the earlier cars have a bracket that holds the two column switches on either side if the column - not sure if there is anything there to attach to. Might be worth taking it apart to see - would be great.

Chris, do you think it would be possible to remove the innards from the tach, replace the tach glass with an aluminum plate, reinstall the tach body into the dash with the plate and then fashion a bracket to that? Suppose it depends on how heavy the unit is. I appreciate the need for a solid mount.

Maybe I just need to order a unit - that is sure to inspires some creative thinking on my part. Perhaps a few holes in the dash wouldn't be so bad - I suppose I could recover it if I parted with the car.

While I'm at it, are your customers happy with the IQ3?

Thanks,
Tom

Tom,

THose tachs generally fit pretty tight but think a few small holes in the vinyl dash cover just aren't going to squirrel the deal on a sale. You could always go to the hardware store and buy some small rubber plugs to fill the gaps later. I really liked the mount I made using some spacer studs mounted right into the dash and to an 1/8" aluminum plate. Clean, simple.

THe feedback for the IQ3 has been tremendous! ...you can find lots of cheerleading about it online (predictive lap times, good display, easy setup, etc..) There were only two neg's that I've heard in over 30 of these sold... First folks would prefer a USB port to a serial port. Second the G2X came with a button to set your start/finish point, the IQ3 only comes with the wiring harness. You supply the button. I spoke to RPK about that and they said they got so many complaints from the types of buttons they used, now people can pick the one they want. (A $3.00 RadioShack momentary push switch is all you need)

Just get rid of that heavy dash and those gauges for a clean install... ;)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218171581.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218171603.jpg

That is indeed a clean install. However, POC V classes require a factory dash, even though the rest of the interior can be gutted. :confused:

The V-Class rules actually state a "factory style dash" is required, so the dash above would be illegal but I believe at least one V3 car is running a complete carbon fiber dash which would give you the same kind of weight savings (as always check with the sheriff before buying anything or cutting up your car).

I think for me, the stand-offs is the way to go. Chris, what length stand off do you recommend? Appears I still need to get behind the unit on occasion for the serial cable installation. Also, what gauge Aluminium sheet to you suggest for a mouning plate?
Thanks again.

If I recall the stand-offs were 3/4" The aluminum was 1/8" (can't remember the gauge, sorry) and was mainly there to connect the studs together on the back of the unit so that it couldn't 'rock' side to side and so that the standoffs didn't bottom out against the nuts securing the studs to the housing. This didn't leave room for a standard cable though... A longer stud would do this no problem. THe other alternative (to keep the unit closer to the dash and what we used) is to get a cable that had a removeable cover. THe prebuilt ones often are encapsulated in plastic and protrude like 1.5 inches... Remove the plastic cover and you can get it in a 1/2" space.

Here is mine, I modified a bracket and have it coming out of the stereo slot

http://gallery.rennlist.com/albums/a...5605.sized.jpg

It appears rotated around the vertical axis? If so, the horizontal accelerometers are not going to yield accurate numbers. Unless this is the dash only and you are using an existing G2X for the data acquisition?