Camber from Tarett monoballs

[Walt Fricke]

I just replaced the stock camber adjusters (which had the rubber removed, and monoballs inserted into the stock steel housings) with the Tarett monoball setup. Pelican happily supplied them. Tarett says that with the offset mounting bolt holes, the narrower housing, and the smaller diameter main boss, I should be able to get more negative camber in my 911 SC.

However, despite having the housing shoved over so the boss rests against the sheet metal of the opening in the unibody, I have the same -2.0 (on average) that I had before. Since I have been wearing the outers well before the inners on my tires (despite having corrected toe so I don't really have much - which was a big help), I thought it worth seeing if another half degree to degree of negative might help the Hoosiers wear more evenly.

Yes, people say I drive the wheels off the car, dirt track it, and so on. I do push it, but that's what it is all about short of pro endurance racing where you have to conserve your tires. I just want the wear more even. And am thinking I will retire the car from street driving, so I don't have to compromise on camber to suit street tires.

These didn't come with instructions or markings I could find as to which is right and which is left, but it seemed obvious that the narrow side relative to the mounting holes should be toward the outside of the car, so that is how I installed them.

I am contemplating grinding a relief in the bosses to see if that will allow it to move over a bit more. At some point, I think I would have to remove the tubular dust cover so it wouldn't hit the inner fenderwell area, but I'm not there yet.

What experience has anyone had with this product?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I don't have any experience with them. However, Tarrett is usually quite good about discussing their products. Here is the "Contact Us" page from their site.

If you're trying for more negative camber, shouldn't the central mounting be closer to the inside of the car, and therefore the narrow side of the mount be toward the inside?

--DD

[Walt Fricke]

It is narrow or wide only with respect to where the bolt holes. If the bolt holes are over toward the outside of the part when installed, that will allow it to move over more to the inside before the bolts bump into the cutouts through which they are screwed.

At least that was my thinking, such as it is - how to move the threaded end of the shock rod closer to the car's centerline.

[JohnJL]

I have had the same experience, the most I can get is 2.1 degrees on the front. The thick oblong washer contacts the lip of the tower.

[kandhmfg]

Originally Posted by JohnJL

I have had the same experience, the most I can get is 2.1 degrees on the front. The thick oblong washer contacts the lip of the tower.

Same here. Have only ever been able to get 2 degrees with the offset plates. Thought it might be my old 1971 car, but maybe not? Although there are others that seem to be able to get up to 2.5-3 degrees in front. Only other option is to start opening up the bolt holes and the big hole the shock rod comes through? But, then that may be a rules violation? Or use the offset ball joints?

[wildcat077]

Walt,

I installed some Tarett camber plates before this season and i was able to max out at -2.4 front by removing the metal shock cover and installing the rubber VW type ...

That still wasn't enough as i was wearing the outer chords on my Nittos so i installed some ER decambered ball joints which now gives me -2.8 on both sides.Much better for tire wear and i flipped my tires inside out to even out the wear.Managed to get more than 40 heat cycles so far on one set of tires !

Cheers !
Phil

[Walt Fricke]

Well, opening up chassis holes, or using the "decambered" lower ball joints, are not legal in PCA Stock. Slotting is allowed in Prepared.

What mystifies me is why I am not getting more with these than I was with the stock steel part. I hadn't done anything to it other than to install the sphericals.

[JP911]

I found (on my '74 911) that the base of the Tarret plate was hitting the inside of the strut tower on the tub, limiting the amount of negative camber I could dial in. I did some grinding on the part to get a bit more, but ended up going with the Wevo camber plates which immediately gave me approximately another 0.3-0.4 degrees of negative.

[RichMink76]

I need more camber also and was looking into verious camber plates. I found out that the Hoosiers I got are about 1/2" wider than the RA1's I was running so now I have a rubbing issue. The one thing I noticed (even with the stock plates) is the strut cover is very close to the opening in the body where the strut attaches. So, I was also going the route of after market poly boots. The stock cap could be your limiting factor.

[KTL]

I agree Tarett is great to deal with. Give Ira Ramin a call at Tarett and he'll tell you everything you need to know.

[agrimmitt]

You only need to give Ira a call, he will work to cure your problem with his product. Ira is a straight up Guy who races/runs what he sells! Many on this forum have his products currently installed on his or her street or track car. He called me from Hawaii during his family vacation one time to answer a message from me on his voice mail.
art
agrimmitt@pelican