open car hauler buying tips?

[bpu699]

Next season may be buying a car hauler for the 930 IF/WHEN a full roll cage goes in...

I know enclosed is best, but way out of budget.

I know absolutely nothing about hauling, but by 2014 Highlander v6 does have the tow package and additional oil cooler...

So what do I need to know?

Do most haulers have their own braking system? Is that an extra?

Will the toyota be adequate? (I also own a 2003 Ford E350 with a V10 that could probably haul a house, but its old, and high mileage, so wary of using that)

Aluminum VS metal? Does it really matter?

Reasonable price to buy? Is $2000-2500 to optimistic? Craigslist usually has a bunch of these for sale for below that...

Any tips for a newbie appreciated...

For example:

$2400 brand new...
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/trb/5876117830.html

So figure $1500 used?

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by bpu699

Next season may be buying a car hauler for the 930 IF/WHEN a full roll cage goes in...

I know enclosed is best, but way out of budget.

I know absolutely nothing about hauling, but by 2014 Highlander v6 does have the tow package and additional oil cooler...

So what do I need to know?

Do most haulers have their own braking system? Is that an extra?

Will the toyota be adequate? (I also own a 2003 Ford E350 with a V10 that could probably haul a house, but its old, and high mileage, so wary of using that)

Aluminum VS metal? Does it really matter?

Reasonable price to buy? Is $2000-2500 to optimistic? Craigslist usually has a bunch of these for sale for below that...

Any tips for a newbie appreciated...

For example:

$2400 brand new...
NEW 20' car hauler / flatbed equipment trailer with ramps

So figure $1500 used?

Hiighlander tow capacity will be marginal at best

You definitely want an aluminum trailer, even so you will be hauling ~4000 or more more extra pounds

The lightest aluminum is probably a Trailex at ~900-1100# depending on how it's set up + car + stuff like tools, tires, cooler...

yes they have brakes, 2 kinds mechanical or electric
mechanical have by a m/c operated by the tongue pushing forward in response to the car brakes. They are PIA when backing up.

electric brakes are controlled by a device mounted in or under the dash. Once set it's purely automatic and applies the brakes in a proportion to the car that you set. Very nice and easy. My 4 Runner had a factory harness and hitch, the controller just plugged into the factory harness I set it once and was done. Don't know what provisions, if any, a Highlander has.

You don't need a 1/2 ton pickup for any al. trailer, though it would probably be nice. we used to tow 3 ton keelboats w/ a 6 cylinder 4 Runner, slow on the big hills but it got the job done, my V8 4Runner is rated for 7200# tow. It is very comfortable @ ~4500# that I generally tow. The SE model I bought came w/ additional trans cooler and bigger brakes.

You migh get lucky by al. usually seels for ~$5k+/-, you will want to be very careful about the bed width, some older trailers won't allow for a 930 width.
I have a Trailex CT 7541 the bed width is 75" this only allows ~2" clearance on either side for a n/b 993 rear wheel/tire, Some trailers will have wider decks up to 80.25"

there are 2 kinds of spring setups
leaf which places the bed a bit higher but is also somewhat cheaper
torsion bars place the bed a bit lower but then have the issue of the door hitting the fenders unless they are removable. These also tend to be bit heavier

A steel trailer will be much heavier 1000# or more, the one listed only has 5' ramps another issue, I need 11" std ramps +3.5' extra ramps to load my 993, but that also depends on your car and front spoiler.

The Craigs list trailer also doesn't mention tie down spots, you will usually want 4 D-ring mounts recessed into the deck, swivel mounts are a +, alternately E track can be used but ti has some potential issues.

My advice get something that can tow w/ more authority particularly if you buy steel.
Spend some time looking at trailers specifically setup for cars, Trailex, Featherlight, ATC, Montrose all make good trailers

[flat6pilot]

Out here in Washington, those flatbed trailers seem to hold their value. I was hard pressed to find one (that was in good shape) for $1500. The 'good' used trailers were still around $1800-$2000 for the same new trailers selling for $2300.

I ended up just buying a new Bulldog Trailer (Bulldog Trailers, New and Used Cargo, Utility, Equipment, Flatbed, Snowmobile, ATV, and Motorcycle Trailers) local to me here in Washington State. 16' New ~$2300 off the lot. The 18' ones were about $200 more.

Great trailer. I pull it with my '06 GMC 2500HD Diesel.

[RichardNew]

I love my open trailer. I actually like it better than the enclosed trailer I used to have.

I tow with a V6 4.0 Ford Explorer. I also live in Florida and we have no hills. That's a huge factor.

I should have brakes on one axle of the trailer but I don't. That's probably illegal. Then again I'm in Florida.

The best thing about an open trailer is how fast you can tie down and exit the track.

My old enclosed trailer could take a lot of stuff and of course I took a lot of stuff to the track. Most of which I never needed. One basic rule is that if you have a part with you then that part will never break. The only parts on your track car that will break are those you have no replacement for. Now I take nothing with me and nothing ever breaks.

Enclosed trailers are nice as a storage garage but I don't need that since I have a warehouse.

One huge downside of an open trailer is rain. My track car has no windows.

Here in Florida $1,500 seems to be going price for a dual axle trailer.



Richard Newton
26 Years With a 911

[cstreit]

Seriously look for a used aluminum trailer. They hold up a LOT better. The one I purchased used is now on it's 5th owner. Still looks really good.

They weight 1500# less and tow like a dream. Aluma and Featherlight are your best options.

yes, they almost all have electric brakes that require a brake controller in your truck. DO get the proportional controller, not the cheap timed ones.

[racer]

Whats wrong with the Van? sounds like the perfect tow vehicle. Large, tough engine, tranny and chassis. Parts available anywhere. Plus room for all the stuff you want to bring with you.

[Menmojo]

In my opinion only buy an aluminum trailer. Not only do they last and are easier to tow but they also maintain resale value. I would suggest you check out R&R trailers, that is what I currently use. They are made in Michigan and there is a dealer in Seneca Illinois. To get a decent aluminum trailer you'll need to move up your budget to approx $5-7k depending on what you buy. Here's mine.

[bpu699]

Thanks for the replies guys...

The tow capacity of the highlander is supposedly 5000 lbs...

The e350 super duty, gets 6-7 mpg, and seats two... Also, brakes are not exactly confidence inspiring. The Toyota stops WAAAYYYY quicker. Truck has new tires, new brakes, new rotors...still, with stock commercial tires on it, it takes some distance to stop.

Figured towing with the Toyota would be safer...

930 weights what? 2500 lbs? Aluminum trailer weights what? 1000lbs?

Should be ok?

Paid extra for the toyota tow package, but have no idea what accomodations it has for electric brakes...

$5000-7000 for a trailer is not the wife-approved amount ...

I missed out on a track prepped Miata with aluminum trailer that sold on craigslist in Chicago for $7000 last year... Sigh.

[ted]

You might consider a nice weight distribution hitch with sway control.
When I go to the track I have a 2 page list of stuff to bring in addition to the trailer and car.
I had this system on my truck and it gave the rig much more straight line projection.
Made it safer handling during downhill freeway sections too.
This is the one I used.
https://youtu.be/RrbmjUs1Mrw
Trailer brakes and brake controller in truck are critical.

My rig is a 1 ton dually with 30k towing capacity but only towing 12k.
With those kind of safety margins towing is safer and more enjoyable.

[Pete R]

One thing you should look at is the position of the wheels on the trailer and it's length. You want to be able to have tongue weight. See how the #30 can get far enough forward to have more of the car in front of the axles. Some trailers like mine have wheels more in the middle and with the 911 rear weight bias I could not tow one with out backing on. The front would be too light and make the trailer sway if I drove straight on.
BTW I tow a Neon with spare tires ect on a steel trailer with a Toyota Tacoma. I have no issues.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by bpu699

Thanks for the replies guys...

The tow capacity of the highlander is supposedly 5000 lbs...

The e350 super duty, gets 6-7 mpg, and seats two... Also, brakes are not exactly confidence inspiring. The Toyota stops WAAAYYYY quicker. Truck has new tires, new brakes, new rotors...still, with stock commercial tires on it, it takes some distance to stop.

Figured towing with the Toyota would be safer...

930 weights what? 2500 lbs? Aluminum trailer weights what? 1000lbs?

Should be ok?

Paid extra for the toyota tow package, but have no idea what accomodations it has for electric brakes...

$5000-7000 for a trailer is not the wife-approved amount ...

I missed out on a track prepped Miata with aluminum trailer that sold on craigslist in Chicago for $7000 last year... Sigh.

There's doable, like the guy that used to tow his 6k# keel boat around the yard w/ his VW Rabbit diesel, it was doable because he didn't go far or fast and had no hills to climb and no occasion to stop from speed quickly

There's adequate, if the Hilanders is truly ok w/ 5K# and speeds are kept relatively low and panic stops never happen and it's ok for speeds to drop on hills and cross winds never occur

There's comfortable my 4 Runner is comfortable, it can go as fast as I want over hill and dale, it's stop pretty well, It's got a long enough wheel base to be stable in cross winds, but it could be more comfortable and more stable and safer

there'more than comfortable, a nice 1/2 top pick w/ higher tow capacity w/ bigger brakes built in controller, longer wheel base

then there's overkill for an aluminum open but just right for a bigger enclosed, a 3/4 or 1 T diesel.

I'd skip a load leveler for these light loads even towing a 7K boat & trailer w/ an older V6 4 Runner we tried the load levelers and were happier w/o them For much bigger tows in the 9K and up range they are probably desirable but they can also present their own problems if accidentally misadjusted.

Tongue weight is very important, probably more important the more marginal the tow vehicle. I'm mostly used to Trailex because that's what i have, but my trailer axle placement and the cars position on the trailer are both set up for a 911 w/ rear engine placement. A front engine car would not be a happy tow on this trailer.

[Bill Verburg]

In the foreground is what would be a base Trailex
steel wheels, but at least it has a spare
4 deck mounted D-rings to tie down to
wheel stops fastened to the deck to position the car on the trailer
axles set for 911
11' ramps stowed under the deck
front wheel and jack to move the trailer arouns by hand
E brakes on both axles
not necessary
winch, but it is nice to have just in case

behind it is the same trailer but w/a tire rack, also nice to have

but that one has mechanical brakes, best to avoid those, the mechanical actuator can be seen on the tongue



On the left my Trailex. extras that are nice: tool box(used for the straps and other assorted tie down gear), extra length ramps(stored under the car in transit)

A couple of friends next door 1 w/ Trailex the other steel and a 1/2 truck

[kent olsen]

I bought my 18' trailer in Florida. Steel frame, dual axles, electric brakes and wood deck. Then I moved to Oregon, towed it with my 72 911 across country with my Chevy 5 cyl Colorado no problems. Trailer weighs 1700, car 2200 and truck will tow 5000. My only issue with trailer is every year when I seal my back deck I seal the wood on my trailer.

[Plavan]

I have an enclosed- But if I ever went with an open trailer, it would be one of these. $8500 USD
Race Car Hauler, Race Hauler USA, Australia, New Zealand

[cstreit]

Originally Posted by Plavan

I have an enclosed- But if I ever went with an open trailer, it would be one of these. $8500 USD
Race Car Hauler, Race Hauler USA, Australia, New Zealand

Slick!

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by Plavan

I have an enclosed- But if I ever went with an open trailer, it would be one of these. $8500 USD
Race Car Hauler, Race Hauler USA, Australia, New Zealand

Interesting, it certainly eliminates one of the big hassles of other open trailers, ie handling & dealing w/ramps. At the cost of a more complex lowering/raising system and inability to open the door in the lowered position.

I also wonder of the rail tie down positions are compatible w/ the common tie down strap clip on ends

There are several interesting trailer designs out there
I've seen steel tilt beds w/o the complex lifting/lowering mechanism they seem to work well. But again a steel will be ~twice as heavy as an aluminum

Similarly the torsion bar flat beds are lower than a typical leaf spring flat bed so shorter ramps are used but then you have door opening problem unless the fenders are removable.

You also have the decision of a full closed bed or an open bed as seen in the Trailex's

[3rd_gear_Ted]

Whatever trailer material you choose, get some ducktail angle on the rear portion of the trailer.

With the smaller tow vehicles you can put the rear of the tow car on ramps and raise the trailer front end for a better load angle.

Get some jackstands to allow locking the trailer in place during loading.

Rate whatever load ramps you get for for your car at 3000 lbs, the longer the better.

Mount a pickup point for a hoist along with getting some extended jumper cables in case of disaster at the track.

Get rid of the incandescent lamps and retrofit the trailer lites to LED's

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by 3rd_gear_Ted

Whatever trailer material you choose, get some ducktail angle on the rear portion of the trailer.

With the smaller tow vehicles you can put the rear of the tow car on ramps and raise the trailer front end for a better load angle.

Get some jackstands to allow locking the trailer in place during loading.

Rate whatever load ramps you get for for your car at 3000 lbs, the longer the better.

Mount a pickup point for a hoist along with getting some extended jumper cables in case of disaster at the track.

Get rid of the incandescent lamps and retrofit the trailer lites to LED's

The dip at the back is usually called a Beaver tail, and yes very useful

[kent olsen]

Since my car is very low I ended up changing to 2X8X10 ramps that I have a angle iron on the end and a hole in the angle and my beaver tail that I drop a bolt thru to hold. The 2X8X10's are stored against the inner fender with that same bolt thru the fender securing them. My electric winch pulls it up and I can raise the tongue as necessary for the belly to clear as I winch it up.

[Plavan]

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg

Interesting, it certainly eliminates one of the big hassles of other open trailers, ie handling & dealing w/ramps. At the cost of a more complex lowering/raising system and inability to open the door in the lowered position.

Just grab the wireless remote winch option- Problem solved if you cant open the door.