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Charles Freeborn's Avatar
 
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Pre season DE Maintenance checklist

At the beginning of the season I routinely do the following. If I'm lucky I'll get 5 DE days running in intermediate group per season.
The car gets around 3k miles on the streets between track days and in the off season.

Feel free to add to the list.
  • Complete undercarriage inspection including but not limited to- All suspension and steering joints, connections, etc. Brake lines, any leaks, rattles, etc.
  • Oil & filter change
  • Fuel filter change
  • All fuel line connections
  • Air filter change
  • Trans fluid change
  • Brake fluid replace and bleed
  • CV joint bolt torques
  • Clean and re-pack front wheel bearings
  • Throttle linkage joints
  • Clutch cable joints
  • Pedal cluster joints
  • Clean or change spark plugs - re-gap, check timing
  • Electrical connections at lights, engine or other sources of gremlin entry

I usually leave well enough alone with the CIS, but since I'll be doing a partial engine drop to change my tensioner fitting seals and chain cover gaskets I'll be switching the intake runner rubber sleeves and intake gaskets. While that's all in bits I'll have a look see at the CIS plunger. If Santa comes early I'll pull injectors and have them cleaned and tested, and if I'm REALLY a good boy I may get that AFR gauge installed this year. Needless to say when mucking about with CIS I'll need to check pressures when it's all back together...
So, what did I miss?
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Bone stock 1974 911S Targa. Kickin' it old school.
Just because you can doesn't mean you should...
Old 03-20-2017, 12:41 PM
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Brake hoses...
Check rims for cracks...
Tire pressures...
Touch up paint chips...

Check any bolts I can get to, and mark off with paint pen...

Check for mouse nests with camera...
Old 03-20-2017, 03:02 PM
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I get my air gun with a long tip to blow all the rocks, cut ty raps, nuts, pennies and tire clag from under my pedal clusters. Amazing what ends up down there
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:25 PM
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All good ideas... except the paint chips.... you've clearly never seen my car up close...
Wheel inspection is a great idea.

I shudder to think what's lurking behind the bash plate under the front or behind pedals...
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:38 PM
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Also good time to check helmet, belts for wear, fire extinguisher, track bag with supplies, etc.
Old 03-20-2017, 05:51 PM
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Timely thread as I'm off to track my car a few times this year.

Charles, saw in another thread you had a bung question regarding your LM-1. I've put mine on cylinders 4-6 just after it's 3 into 1. Ive heard this bank generally runs hotter due to oil cooler but I've never taken measurements.
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Old 03-23-2017, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manbridge 74 View Post
Timely thread as I'm off to track my car a few times this year.

Charles, saw in another thread you had a bung question regarding your LM-1. I've put mine on cylinders 4-6 just after it's 3 into 1. Ive heard this bank generally runs hotter due to oil cooler but I've never taken measurements.
Thanks!
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Old 03-24-2017, 11:21 AM
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I have been thinking about some long term inspections. For example are there any parts on the suspension that should be crack checked? What about front hubs? They are aluminum and mine are over 45 years old! What about front struts? Anything else?
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Old 03-25-2017, 04:36 PM
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When I tracked my car, I always had the valves adjusted at the beginning of every season. Probably overkill to have it done that often but in 8 years I never had a breakdown at the track and like every other superstition, you just don't mess with your preseason rituals.
The other thing that I used to do was go through my track bag and update the tools and supplies that I kept in it. Wire ties and electrical connectors, light bulbs, various fuses and relays, brakes pads, roll of duct tape, flash light... all kinds of crap. The way I looked at it, it was always better to have and not need than to need and not have. Plus I've made some really good friendships with guys because I had something they needed in order to finish their DE weekend.
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Old 03-26-2017, 12:37 AM
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Hi Charles,
Valve adjust
Fire extinguisher charged and secure
Fuel filler & all rubber lines at tank and under back of car
Check for clag/trash on front of fender oil cooler
New wiper blades clean glass inside new out
Exhaust leaks at cylinder head or rest of system
Engine to trans and attachment bolts to chasis
Pop smugglers box cover and check steering joints/bolts
Make sure all elements of throttle linkage are free of binding &a return spring good
No tools parts or loose stuff under seat or anywhere in engine compartment
Battery charged secure and terminals serviced and tight
Fan belt
Plug wires secure on plugs and cap
Seat and track mounting bolts tight
Pedal pads not worn out or loose
Tightness of shift coupler and bushings

Use the list
Chris
Old 03-26-2017, 08:34 AM
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Good list forming here. Thanks all.
I too am an over-preparer. I've made many people happy at the track by having an assortment of zip-ties to share. My tool kit is a little over the top.... I also have one of those divided plastic boxes with screws, nuts, bolts washers, spare spark plugs, bulbs, hose clamps, etc. So far haven't needed much of it (knocking on wood) but I've got it if I do.
I also decant brake fluid down into a squeeze bottle with a nozzle to make it easy to top up without wrestling with a funnel.

Yes indeed - I'm a list maker and user. Otherwise my head falls off.....
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Old 03-26-2017, 03:20 PM
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Yes

luck favors the prepared

Anonemous

Also, "cross threading is almost as good as lock tight"

Bon chance,

Chris

Last edited by chrismorse; 03-27-2017 at 07:38 PM..
Old 03-26-2017, 06:15 PM
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How hard is it to clean and re-pack front wheel bearings?
All I ever hear is that bearings are a PITA repair.

Pedal cluster joints?
I am not even sure what "pedal cluster rebuild" even means.
Why have I read constantly that this is a huge nightmare repair.
What do you do? Just remove the carpet and squirt some oil on the springs?
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Old 04-08-2017, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
How hard is it to clean and re-pack front wheel bearings?
All I ever hear is that bearings are a PITA repair.

Pedal cluster joints?
I am not even sure what "pedal cluster rebuild" even means.
Why have I read constantly that this is a huge nightmare repair.
What do you do? Just remove the carpet and squirt some oil on the springs?
Front wheel bearings are a piece of cake, really not much more than replacing the front brake rotors. The only difference is you are taking out the bearings from the hubs cleaning them and pressing in as much grease in the wheel bearing cases as humanly possible. The reason why you hear how much people hate that job is because the grease gets every where and is a ***** to clean up because once it is on your gloves, everything you touch becomes greasy.

I can't really tell you about the pedal cluster, mine works perfectly so I'm not messing with it. I understand the nightmare part, it does appear as though it would be one of those types of repairs that if you had to do it, you only want to do it once.
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Old 04-09-2017, 01:10 AM
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The pedal cluster has several bushings in it which can wear and then need replacing.

Here's a link to an exploded diagram:

Pelican Parts: Porsche 914 Foot Pedal Assembly

That's from the 914 manual, but the 911 is either very similar or possibly identical.

Here's a fairly detailed tech article on how to rebuild one: Pelican Parts: Porsche 914 Foot Pedal Assembly

Note that the roll pin that comes with the bronze bushing kits is a standard roll pin and not a spiral pin. It generally fails in short order, appearing like a bad clutch cable or clutch. Re-use the old pin if possible, or locate a spiral pin with more than one layer of metal all the way around.

--DD
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Old 04-09-2017, 09:35 AM
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Many thanks Dave. Those tech articles will come in handy. It also bears mentioning that the pedals are 2 of the three (3 of 4 if you count the clutch) input sources we use to control the car. If there is undue resistance or slop in any of those inputs your control of the car is diminished. Personally if I'm feathering the throttle or brakes when I'm at the edge of traction I want the feedback to be smooth as silk.... but maybe that's just me....


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Old 04-09-2017, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael lang View Post
Front wheel bearings are a piece of cake, really not much more than replacing the front brake rotors. The only difference is you are taking out the bearings from the hubs cleaning them and pressing in as much grease in the wheel bearing cases as humanly possible. The reason why you hear how much people hate that job is because the grease gets every where and is a ***** to clean up because once it is on your gloves, everything you touch becomes greasy.

Are you replacing both the inner and outer bearings?

I looked this up in the Bentley.
It does not look like cake to me.

Replacing bearings does not look nearly as trivial as rotors.
It involves using a torch and special tools to press something called a "race"
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Last edited by sugarwood; 04-10-2017 at 07:48 AM..
Old 04-10-2017, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
Are you replacing both the inner and outer bearings?

I looked this up in the Bentley.
It does not look like cake to me.

Replacing bearings does not look nearly as trivial as rotors.
It involves using a torch and special tools to press something called a "race"
More work than rotors, and yes takes some tools. Torch is helpful but not essential if you're good with a drift punch.
Put the races in the freezer overnight and they'll slip into the hubs with minimal pounding. You'll need new inner seals too.
Not hard if you've done a few, but there is some technique involved.
You can add fresh grease with a needle attachment on a grease gun. I do that every season, and a full repack every other.
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Old 04-10-2017, 08:56 AM
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