Rear Brake Caliper Bolts

[Mike80911]

Does anyone know what size the bolts are to remove the rear calipers they look like Torx bolts the biggest size I have is T60 but that is to small and I cannot find any larger sizes in the tool stores around here. Anyone know exactly what size to use and is the front the same
Thanks
Mike

[wcc]

Let me say I haven't done this yet, but will be in the next couple of weeks. So during my research I've found this thread.

DIY Front Rotors and Pads for the Cayenne - Rennlist Discussion Forums

In there they say they are triple squares and this set will cover the tools..
Amazon.com: Vim Products VIMXZN400 9 Piece XZN Triple Square, Spline Drive Bit Set: Home Improvement

Or this one should work but it's only a 8 piece and short instead of the long one.
Amazon.com: Vim (VIMXZN100) 8-Piece XZN Set: Industrial & Scientific

I'm planning on the 8piece short one and use an extension if need be. Post back what you did and what you used to get through this project. It would be a great help for me as like I said I'll be doing this job on the 19th with another Pelican and neighbor. Should be fun!

[Mike80911]

Thanks WCC I have done the brakes before on the car very easy to do you just have to be careful with the sensor connections they break easily and if you break it the light on the dash will remain on. This time I am going to replace the emergency brake shoes and that requires removing the rear calipers and rotors. I started to dissasemble it yesterday and noticed the special bolts. I just bought a triple square kit on ebay hopefully they will get here sonn.
Thanks for the reply

[Wheel Dynamics]

Those bolts are sometimes a real PITA to remove, be sure you don't strip them bolts or you'll be in a world of hurt....

[Mike80911]

Thanks I will take care not to strip them seems like it might happen easily because of the location and the type of bolts

[jeffdtla]

The caliper bolts are a #16 triple square. I have been using a Hazet 2567-16 socket. If you take the plug and wire for the brake wear sensor out of it's bracket and get it out of the way, you can get in there with an impact gun and the Hazet socket and no extensions or swivels. This has always worked for me and I have never stripped a bolt. You will also need a T45 Torx for the bolt that holds the rotor to the hub. The front caliper bolts are just regular 21mm. For these, leave the key in the ignition so you can swivel the spindles by hand to get better access to the bolts. You can zap these off with an impact, but when going back on, start them by hand. They like to cross-thread easily, especially after the metal brake line has been bent from taking the caliper off. Once started and in pretty good, you can zap them back down, ending at a few seconds on each one. I use an Ingersoll-Rand Titanium. Or you can follow the directions and torque to spec. I think it's something like 200 or 220 nM for the front. And don't ever use this method for sports cars with aluminum spindles!

[Mike80911]

OK so did the job today pads went fine but getting the rear rotors off was not easy. The bolts came out of the calipers very easily with the right socket and a impact gun. I ordered the triple square set through ebay five sizes for $28 with free shipping. The rotors would not come past the emergency brake pads had to pry them off with a large pry bar. Once I changed the shoes I could not get the rotor back on had to use a hammer finally got them on but did not see any way to adjust the shoes. The emergency brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. Now of course I have a rubbing noise coming from both back wheels. I noticed when I took it apart that the rotors had lips and should have been changed so I ordered all new rotors. I am thinking the noise is the lip on the back of the rotor where the emergency brake shoes are rubbing it. Now everything has to come apart again. Any advise on how to adjust the emergency brake shoes would be very helpful Thanks

[jeffdtla]

There is a star wheel adjuster for the emergency brake shoes. On the rotor, there is a bolt that takes a very small triple square that you probably don't have in your set. I just take the closest oversize Torx, bang it into the bolt hole, and then unbolt it. You can now access the star wheel adjuster through this hole when the rotor is turned to the correct position. The adjustment procedure is to tighten the adjuster until the rotor cannot be turned, and then back it off 6 teeth. The new rotors will not have the bolt in that hole, so you will have to reuse the old bolt.

[Mike80911]

Thanks jeffdtla what do you use to adjust it that hole seems kind of small is there a special tool or do you know of something else

[jeffdtla]

I just use the biggest screwdriver that will fit in the hole and move around enough to turn the adjuster.

[anderson111]

hi..
Give me a idea about the things that you all have done...

[Mike80911]

Well as you can see from this post I have done brakes and rotors myself and have done basic maintainance changed the oil bulbs filters etc. next I am changing the cabin air filter which from what I have read is very simple right under the passenger side dash. The car runs great so no need to touch any tune up parts but again on my model seems pretty straight foward on some newer models I think you need to remove one of the motor mounts to get to the spark plugs. Also changed the rear tail lights very easy to do 2 10mm bolts and done removed both headlights to change the bulbs a 10mm socket with extension turn to unlock and headlight slides right out. Most things can be accomplished by searching here or on rennlist if you can't find the answer you just ask and evryone is always very helpful.

[jeffdtla]

To get to the cabin filter, take off the cover under the passenger's side dash, which is held on by one T15 screw and some pop-off clips. Then, you will see the cover for the filter, which is held on by two 5.5mm bolts. While you are here, you can also see the rubber drain connection for the A/C evaporator. If the passenger side carpet ever mysteriously ends up soaked, this is because a rubber flap on the drain is stuck and the weight of the water building up in the A/C unit can't overcome it until it spills into the car. Remove the rubber drain to let the water out by pulling it off of the A/C unit and then pulling it straight out of the floor, and then cut a notch in the flap to allow water to drain better, or cut it off altogether, and then reinstall the drain. Or do this modification before your carpet ever gets soaked. If you don't want to take it all the way out, then just take the end of the A/C unit and blow compressed air through it whenever you're in there to change the cabin filter. To get to the spark plugs on any year V-8 Cayenne, you need to take off the motor mount on top of the engine, which goes to the passenger side fender well. Not a big deal at all. You will need a set of E-Torx sockets. If one of your coil packs ever goes out, this is how you get to those too, since they are right on top of the spark plugs. Tail light bolts are 5mm Allen, and there is also a plastic ball socket hidden in the back. I often had to use a plastic wedge to carefully lever the tail light out without breaking it until it pops out of the plastic retainer. The retainer is usually broken and gone after a few times in and out, so the tail lights are then very easy to remove. Headlights take a 6mm socket and an extension, or the special tool by the spare tire. Sometimes they don't make good contact when you put them back in and intermittently go out or flicker over bumps, especially if they have been taken out many times by hasty mechanics and the guide rails on the bottom are broken off. I take off the plastic engine bay cover on that side and then use a long, skinny screwdriver or pick to push in the white plug that goes to the back of the headlight. It will go in about 3mm and that fixes this problem. While the headlights are out, check the two 10mm bolts in the front of the black plastic mounting base, and try to move the base up and down. These often shake loose and you can often catch them in time, but sometimes they completely fall out and disappear. The big washers behind them are usually found lying in the bottom of the front fender, behind the plastic wheel well liner. If the bolts are gone, new replacements are available from the dealer with dry, blue thread locker on them.