Pelican Parts Forums

Pelican Parts Forums (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/)
-   Porsche Cayenne & Macan Forum (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-cayenne-macan-forum/)
-   -   '05 Tailgate wont stay open (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-cayenne-macan-forum/827776-05-tailgate-wont-stay-open.html)

Robert Yuile 08-31-2014 12:08 PM

'05 Tailgate wont stay open
 
I've just had a full body kit upgrade and the car looks great! However, the additional weight of the extended spoiler on the tailgate is enough to prevent it from staying open and I'm currently propping it up with a wooden pole which is really embarrassing.
I can't see any gas struts, only the hinges at the top of the tailgate.
Does anyone know if there is a way to increase the tension in order for the tailgate to remain open.
Thanks for your help!

LanceGT4 08-31-2014 02:08 PM

I think Wayne has a project on replacing the struts that lift the tailgate and window.
unfortunalty you can't increase the tension of a spring. Porsche uses air shocks, and of course they are different from any one else. RennTech also has a DIY on replacement of the shocks.

Robert Yuile 09-01-2014 10:06 AM

Thanks - I'll take a look for Wayne's solution

911SauCy 09-04-2014 05:13 AM

You need new tailgate struts.

You can't see them because you need to remove the trim pieces and headliner to access for replacement.

Its very well documented in Wayne's write-up, took me 30mins.

Hawaii Carrera 09-30-2014 11:35 PM

They wear with time, new ones will indeed likely support the extra weight just fine:D

island911 10-27-2014 05:52 PM

Wayne's write-up: Pelican Technical Article - Porsche Cayenne - Rear Hatch Shock Replacement

Parts: Porsche Cayenne (2003-2010) - Bumpers, Doors, Latches & Lids - Page 3

island911 10-30-2014 11:19 AM

I did this job yesterday.

I tried to add comments to Wayne's write-up (no go)

Anyway...

To make the removal and installation easier note that the socket-ends of the spring have a band-spring detents.
Each detent can be pushed/slid two an open condition, making easy work of getting the socket-end on or off of the ball mount.

Showing pushed to an open position... (band not aligned in recess)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414696492.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414696597.jpg

This 'trick' should save a lot of swearing and tool throwing and pry-marks. ;)

island911 10-30-2014 11:26 AM

Oh, and a better picture of those panel springs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414697019.jpg

.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414697102.jpg

I put a dab of lithium grease on before reassembly. (next time less plastic breakage)

fintstone 12-28-2014 06:41 AM

Thanks! This is my next DIY job. I already have the parts from PP in hand.

To the OP. If you have an '05...it is time. The ones on my '04 started giving out last winter. Like all struts, they always are worse/weaker in the cold due to design. That is when you first notice problems.

posh 01-02-2015 06:50 AM

'05 tailgate won't stay open
 
I agree with Flintstone - it's time if you have an '05. I replaced mine (and the struts that hold the window) just a month ago. It was a 2 hour job and basically, I followed a video I watched on you tube.

It's not hard, just use a little patience.

Pelican parts has the best prices. Part numbers you'll need are: 955-912-528-00 for the glass lid shock and 955-512-550-06 for the hatch shock.

Good luck!

posh

RNajarian 02-19-2017 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by posh (Post 8420972)
. . Pelican parts has the best prices. Part numbers you'll need are: 955-912-528-00 for the glass lid shock and 955-512-550-06 for the hatch shock . . .

Just ordered my replacement hatch struts. Pelican DOES have the best prices in town AND three different struts available
1) Inexpensive Aftermarket units
2) OEM Part (also competively priced)
3) More expensive High End part

Oh and thanks to Island911 for his tip how to handle the spring clip on the end of the strut. Those things have been driving me nuts for decades.

RNajarian 02-21-2017 02:02 PM

My new struts are scheduled to be delivered this evening, so to prepare for their arrival I have removed (per Wayne's write up) the interior panels. Removal of the panels and struts were pretty easy. I only wish I had done this years ago. Would have prevented a dozen or so bumps on the head. The only difference for me from the Pelican tech article was that all the Torx screws were size 25. No biggie.

Below is my solution to support the back hatch. By Parking in the garage head first, I was able to use the handle of the garage door as a connection point to put bungee cords on the hatch to support it. The beauty of this system is that when I need to slightly move the hatch to reconnect the strut I will have several inches of play as I simply need to pull on the hatch and the bungee cords will give a little. After I took this photo I modified my system from the one you see below. What I did was use two different bungee cords to loop through the handle and connect onto the lip of the bottom edge of the hatch. The hook of the bungee cord connects easily and securely and this way should one bungee cord fail I will have the second as a back up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1487718008.jpg

RNajarian 03-02-2017 10:31 PM

Finished putting the hatch struts in
 
I was able to finish installing my new hatch struts today. I still need to reinstall the interior trim panels, but that should not take too long.

I am not replacing my rear window struts, yes I know I should, but I rarely use the window, and the current ones are still working well.

I have included a few photos which may help someone in the future. The first is of my bungee cord solution to holding the hatch up. By adjusting the tension of the cords (assuming you have a bungee cord that is adjustable) you can easily adjust the height of the hatch to line up with the new strut during installation.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488525353.jpg

One tip I have to add to Wayne's excellent write up is the rear connection point is accessible from behind and from underneath. Here is a photo of the rear most ball connector (it has a yellow hue from the hatch struts grease) and the unconnected hatch strut (it is black to the right of the ball connector.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488525897.jpg

I snapped the front connection in first then adjusted the hatch height with the bungee cords, once the ball and socket connections were lined up I used a long screwdriver from the rear to snap the hatch strut into the ball attachment point.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1488525574.jpg

It will be nice not having the hatch fall on my head. It is a fairly simple project. Anyone interested in this DIY project should read Wayne's write up AND of course support our host by purchasing the struts from them.

mhariush 03-25-2019 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by posh (Post 8420972)
... It was a 2 hour job and basically, I followed a video I watched on you tube. ...

I wish I had read this a long time ago. Somehow I remember seeing a tech article that said 5-6 hours, so I never got around to doing it. I bought the new struts that were never installed.

Now the car is wrecked, so a pair of brand new Stabilus are for sale for those that come across this thread!


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:48 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website


DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.