Suspension / Brake Reassembly Questions

Wavey · 09-03-2005, 11:38 AM

I'm starting the reassemble of my Carrera's suspension and brakes this weekend. Couple of questions:

Using Bilstein Sports on the rear. I seem to remember reading that the snubbers should be shortened if the car will be lowered. I'm shooting for about 24.5 - 25" at the wheel opening. Do I need to shorten the snubbers? If so, how much?

Using the AJ cooling kit, with the hub blockoff plates. But I won't be ducting air to the AJ backing plate until I install the Ruf bumper at a later date. Any harm in using the blockoff without ducting additional air to the rotor?

TIA, Dave

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

IIRC, there are 3 sections on the snubbers; I cut mine down to one, but you can probably get away with two.

I don't think there's any harm in installing the blockoff.

ecm911 · 09-03-2005, 07:37 PM

Dave,

Recently completed complete rebuild of my suspension. Smart racing products has great instructions on their web site for bump stop rubber cutting ( you can down load the PDF file).

I see no problem with the backing plates ether. In fact I am running with backing plates and ducts, awaiting the ducts. Granted not running much .

Good luck!!

Earl

Todd Simpson · 09-03-2005, 09:12 PM

DO NOT follow the Smart Racing instructions, or rather, check your shocks before you do.

My Bilstein Sports bottomed out internally before the shortened bump stops would have come into play. I ended up taking one ring off.

I took pictures, can't find them now. Whatever you do, test the travel before it all goes back together.

Wavey · 09-04-2005, 04:09 AM

Thanks for the responses guys!

Todd - that's exactly what I was concerned about. With the car lowered a bit I don't want the bump stops coming into play too soon, on the other hand I want enough bump stop to keep from damaging the shock. I think I'll just cut the bottom ring off.

RE: the blockoffs, I figure if I get the chance to track the car before the Ruf bumper is installed, I can add the 993 diverters which would at nl;east direct some air to that area.

KTL · 09-04-2005, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Wavey

RE: the blockoffs, I figure if I get the chance to track the car before the Ruf bumper is installed, I can add the 993 diverters which would at nl;east direct some air to that area.

That's what's on my car right now. No ill effects on the track that I can see.

I've cooked my brakes (glazed pads & soft pedal), but I think that's more due to the pad compound and rotor thermal mass than due to the cooling setup providing some sort of negative effect. I can't imagine the 993 diverters and the block-offs are working against each other. With the block off plates in place, seems that the rather small amount of air the diverters push towards the rotor surface and eye is going to be better used than if the block off wasn't in place. Hopefully some air gets pushed through the cooling vanes of the rotor?

Wavey · 09-12-2005, 02:07 PM

Another question: I'm installing the AJ-USA brake cooling kit. The backing plates have part numbers printed on them, which end in "R" or "L", which I assume indicates right and left. If I install them this way, it puts the duct UNDER the tierod arm, rather than OVER it which is how they appear in every picture I can find. Which way is correct or does it even make a difference?

Wavey · 09-13-2005, 04:11 AM

bump

Todd Simpson · 09-14-2005, 03:58 PM

I think I've had them both ways at one time or another but they are currently mounted "under" and work fine.

Wavey · 09-14-2005, 06:18 PM

Thanks Todd. I found some other pics with them that way so I guess it doesn't make a difference. It just looked like the duct might be more likely to get smashed that way.

KTL · 09-14-2005, 08:27 PM

Sorry to hijack.

Does the spacer ring/seat have to be removed to install the plates?

Looks like that is how it's done on Todd's setup, but I don't ever recall others mentioning they had to do this?

ianc · 09-14-2005, 08:32 PM

Any pics of what to cut on the snubbers? I recently installed sports on the rear as well. Predictably (I read), because of the gas charged shock, the rear sits higher, but I will lower it again. I don't recall reading anything about shortening the stops though. Any more info?

ianc

Wavey · 09-15-2005, 03:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by KTL
Sorry to hijack.

Does the spacer ring/seat have to be removed to install the plates?

Looks like that is how it's done on Todd's setup, but I don't ever recall others mentioning they had to do this?

Kevin - mine were just a tad too tight to fit over the ring. 30 seconds with a file took enough off that they slipped right on. I think the paint or powder coat added enough thickness to cause the tight fit.

Wavey · 09-15-2005, 03:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ianc
Any pics of what to cut on the snubbers? I recently installed sports on the rear as well. Predictably (I read), because of the gas charged shock, the rear sits higher, but I will lower it again. I don't recall reading anything about shortening the stops though. Any more info?

ianc

Here's what Smart says to do, but also see the above post about this being too much. I'm just cutting the bottom ring off.

ianc · 09-15-2005, 09:18 AM

Thanks for the scan Wavey. I guess this can wait until the new bushings\torsion bars\lowering.

ianc

Wavey · 09-18-2005, 10:48 AM

OK - new question. I've got the front control arms installed, ready to insert the torsion bars. Struts are not installed yet. What's a good starting point for the control arm angle with the torsion bar and adjuster installed and centered? I'll be shooting for Euro ride height or a little lower. Stock spindle height, rack spacers installed.

Did a search and found this recent post:

? for Chuck (bump steer kit)

So is 10 degrees a good starting point? I would think somewhere between that and parallel to the floor (car is dead level to the floor).

Thanks...

KTL · 09-18-2005, 06:23 PM

That post is a good find Dave. Hadn't seen that one before. But I think the discussion is more geared toward what angle you want the control arm for stock ride height? You want it lower than original, right?

Here's how I described it

Kev's simpleton attempt at setting front suspension height with bigger torsion bars

Todd Simpson · 09-18-2005, 06:32 PM

You know, I think that's a new description on the Smart website.

When I discovered the issue I called and they said they would revise the site. This was about 4 months ago.

I remember their old instructions taking off 2 rings, now it's just one, and that's what I ended up doing.

Follow the Smart instructions...and double check, just in case!

Wavey · 09-19-2005, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by KTL
But I think the discussion is more geared toward what angle you want the control arm for stock ride height? You want it lower than original, right?

Yes - I'm shooting for about 24.25 to 24.50 at the front wheel opening. Front T-bars are 21mm, new Bilstein Heavy Dutys on the front.

The control arms are installed but not the struts, so I have no point of reference. I went ahead and installed the stock swaybar, thinking it would be easier with the control arms free, but maybe that was a mistake - hope not - I wouldn't want to do that again = what a motherf#@%*r!

I just want to assemble everything so that when I drop the car off the jacks, I'm at least within the range of adjustability on the ride height. Trying to avoid shooting in the dark and multiple reassemblies.

Wavey · 09-19-2005, 08:56 AM

I have hijacked my own thread, so I'm moving this question to a new thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/241737-help-please-suspension-reassembly-questions.html#post2129528

Thanks for the responses so far, though.