Trans Coupler Stripped Bolt Head

xupkid2 · 02-26-2009, 09:17 PM

So I am in the process of removing my trans and one of the 2 8mm allen bolts head is stripped. Im guessing the trans has never been removed because the other bolts thread were a bit rusty. Ive sprayed it with PB blaster and am letting it sit overnight. Ive also pounded a 10mm cheese head into it and am hoping I can break it loose. If that dont work any other thoughts? Im thinking drilling it out will take forever and require me to find a very long drill bit.

Thanks
Brian

shinrai · 02-27-2009, 01:40 AM

funny...i just went through this and it's totally sh11ty. i tried to drill it out but i couldn't get enough force on the thread side (you have to drill out the thread side because the bolt must be removed to remove the trans and even when you do this you'll have to replace the coupler). what i did was i removed the one bolt and slid the trans back as far as i could. then i took a recip saw with an extended blade to cut the coupler in half. i then replaced the coupler. you might have other options but i had none. it will take 2-3 good quality blades to cut through that SOB! let me know what you're solution is.....

jmd_forest · 02-27-2009, 05:13 AM

Weld a nut to the top of the stripped bolt. The heat of the welding plus the new nut should allow you to free the bolt.

jmd_forest

rickharrison · 02-27-2009, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmd_forest

Weld a nut to the top of the stripped bolt. The heat of the welding plus the new nut should allow you to free the bolt.

jmd_forest

+1 ...best way to go

emoore924 · 02-27-2009, 10:08 AM

This may sound a little idiotic, but I'd whack it with a BFH a couple of times and then what if you JB welded a hex socket in the stripped cap screw? The JB might just be hard enough and take up enough room in the bad head so you could get the cap screw out...

Welding a nut is probably the best way, but this was just a thought 'cause it might be tough to get the tip of a mig in there. Let us know how you get it out...

962porsche · 02-27-2009, 01:07 PM

i have had some of theses in my shop all i we did was with a jewelers tip on the torch heat up the thred end and with the sears bolt out kit remove the bolt . took about 5 minnets .

TNT25169 · 02-27-2009, 02:12 PM

When this happens to me I drill the bolt head out a little more and pound a cheesehead up in there....furthermore, why didn't porsche just use a 13mm bolt here? Seems like it would have been a whole hell of a lot easier....

xupkid2 · 02-28-2009, 07:30 AM

Well after trying to pound in cheeseheads and anything else along with lots of PB and heat I ended up having no success. Finally I decided to drill out the threaded end. Luckily the bolt has an indent on the threaded end ofthe bolt so I had a groove to start with. I just took my time and started with a small bit and worked my way up. I also used the 6-8" bits to make it a little easier. About 30 min later the bolt broke free and I was on my way. What a PITA though. Whoever designed that piece sure didnt think about removing it at any point.

Ive removed them 4-5 times now on various cars and it seems like every time something goes wrong. The new one going in will have lots of anti seize on those threads.

drift a 944 · 02-28-2009, 07:50 PM

for future issues....

http://www.4grabit.com/Default.asp?bhcp=1

mikepellegrini · mikepellegrini's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by drift a 944

for future issues....

http://www.4grabit.com/Default.asp?bhcp=1

That looks like an EasyOut.

I've used EasyOut's before with great results. I also had one break off in a cam tower bolt which really screwed me because if one breaks, they're so hard that no way can you drill it out.