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x98boardwell's Avatar
 
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New front 930S spoiler and new front mount oil cooler... questions?

I have recently purchased a 930S front spoiler from Better Bodies. I have since removed the front valence and the stock fender mounted oil cooler. I have a few questions.

1) How do you connect the stock bellows on either side to the spoiler?
2) How do you properly route the oil lines from the stock cooler to the front cooler?
3) Do I cut the metal shroud around the stock cooler to allow the lines to pass behind it, or do I remove it all together? It would seem that I would want to try and keep it.
4) How r the lines connected? What is in and what is out?

This will get me started. I will be posting pictures later today as I progress with trial fitment of spoiler and will post pics of lines and cooler early next week.

Pictures and descriptions would be most helpful. Thank you for the help in advance. I have searched a few threads and I am not getting all of my questions answered. If you know of a thread that may help please post it here.

Kind Regards,
Bryan

Old 05-09-2009, 08:25 AM
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Ok, I have the front valence off and the front spoiler mocked up with 4 clamps.

Questions,

1) How do (did) you mount the fog lights into the new air dam? I'm guessing that you want to mount them to the body so the fiberglass spoiler is not holding the weight?

2) If you look at the last two pictures, you can see where I have marked to remove some material for the bellows to properly fit in.

3) Also, in the last two photo's look at the front profile of the car. It sticks out more on the passenger side then the drivers side. How can I fix? It would seem that if I move it back then the wheel well arches would not line up and the fiberglass if molded on the edges so I would lose the strength of the lips if I were to cut away material..

Any ideas? Also, can you help with the first post.

Lastly, I have included some pictures of my fittings. I purchased a male and female Metric to AN adapter so I wouldn't have any issues hooking up the lines.

Thanks,
Bryan



How to mount the fog lights???





These are AN-16's and they will be nice on the car once finished. I purchased one 120 degree offset to go from the fender cooler over the top and down to the front cooler. How do I route these lines?



Marking for bellows and areas to be removed. Also, look at the profile in front. It sticks out more on passenger side than driver side. Any suggestions?? The pictures do not show the difference as much but it is there.



Old 05-09-2009, 10:37 AM
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I had a similar setup the hot oil fist goes to the fender cooler then the out line goes to the spoiler cooler and the exit line goes back to the motor.
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Old 05-09-2009, 06:06 PM
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Bryan,

I think you have to start with the fender arches forst like you have done. That's where you can see the most off set. Can you adjust your bumper in and out on both sides to get an even reveal?

Do you need the foglights? Will they fit? Or will you need to get some aftermarket lights to fill the holes? You can you fab some kind of faux grill to cover the openings if you can't get them to work. If needed or wanted, I'm thinking you'll need to fab a bracked from the bulkhead and mount the lights either rightside up or upside down. You may have to flip the lenses if possible to make it work?

I believe the fitting closest to the inboard side of the car on the fender oil cooler is "in" and the outboard fitting is "out". I would keep your shround but you are going to have to modify it to get the oil lines past it. You may want to trace it on a sheet of aluminum and fab one that you can hack up to save the original. I would run the lines as needed making sure they don't rub anything and then fab the shroud.

Last edited by A930Rocket; 05-09-2009 at 07:47 PM..
Old 05-09-2009, 07:45 PM
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I installed a similar valance and I fabbed a bracket from the middle bolt in the front of where the spare tire goes. It came straight down and then 90dergeed towards the front bottom edge of the valance. I also resined in a steel bar into the back/bottom edge of the valance to connect the bracket to. This will also give the lower front edge some much needed strength. I also fabbed a couple of brackets that extend from the two front "A" arm supports that attach to the metal bar imbedded into the valance. On the middle of the upper valance I did as Rocket suggested and pushed and pulled the part that bolts to the bumper to get it uniform. The bumper is made of aluminum and I drilled and tapped four bolt holes to hold the thing in place. Always use washers when bolting glass to steel. Relax a little about one side not being exactly like the other because only you will ever notice it! I was fretting over it untill I noticed that the production cars had differences where the bellows joins the fender. Some are squished on one side and not the other and some were more vertical (Rubber ribs), than the other. Think of all the boobs you have seen and how few of them were the same exact size! Did you care?
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Old 05-10-2009, 01:16 PM
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Thanks

Guys, thanks for all the pointers. I will be adding a aluminum cutter/splitter to the bottom of the spoiler so that will offer the rigidity that I am after and allow me to attach some support brackets to it.

The oil cooler should be here tomorrow so I can mock it up before I send the spoiler to the body shop for prep and paint.

Here are some pics so far. I have an issue with the fog lights. One side seems to fit in well and the other looks like crap. I may have to take away some material here to get it looking good. Anyone have this same issue?

I also will be trimming the rubber washers that you can see just above the fog lights where it meets my bumper. This is just a mock up so I wasn't worried about them now. Lastly, in the first photo I was able to use the bracket from the original spoiler were it meets the fender. I just flattened the edges and trimmed it up a bit and now I have studs that I can use and it worked well.

Bryan







Old 05-10-2009, 01:28 PM
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I forgot the photo of the mounting hardware.

Old 05-10-2009, 01:34 PM
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Regarding the oil line routing.
You should run the oil from the engine to the front cooler first and then to the fender cooler. Hotest oil to the most efficient cooler in my opinion. The oil coming into the fender cooler nearest the center of the car is the inlet from the engine.
Run the new inlet line past the sheet metal shield along the inner fender down to the front cooler on the bottom fitting lowest to the ground. The oil will then flow up thru the cooler to the upper fitting and any foaming or air bubbles will rise to the top. The return oil line from this fitting then routes back to the former inlet fitting on the fender cooler thru the sheet metal shield. You will have to trim a notch for clearance for this hose. That is where the 120 degree fiting will help to make the bend. The return line from the fender cooler stays the same and back to the engine.
Elephant Racing has some pictures online that shows the set up I described, except he uses a 90 degree fitting but in my opinion the 120 degree is better, good call. Look under one of the projects on his site.
Couldn't you have gone a little bigger than AN-16 hoses, original lines were 30mm?
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:31 AM
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-16 is usually the biggest line run. I've run -12 with out problems on the track for years.

-12 = 3/4'' and -16 = 1'' approximately.

The adapters are a -16 to a 30mm for the fitting on the cooler and oil lines, but the lines aren't 30mm.
Old 05-11-2009, 05:09 PM
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Fred, thanks for the advice regarding Elephant Racing. I will look at that site sometime today and figure out how to run the lines behind the stock fender cooler. Also, I would agree with Jim (A930Rocket). I talked with several people and most of them said to use AN-12 but I wanted to stay as true to the line diameter as possible. AN-16 may be slightly smaller but I could not imagine using a larger line. These things are huge.

I added pics below with the fog lights (resting there... not mounted yet) and the oil cooler.

In addition to the oil cooler I have also added pic's of my 3/16 thick sheet of aluminum. It is 22 x 60 inches and I will lay the spoiler on this to draw out my splitter. I called a few metal shops locally and then finally found one that I liked and they ended up selling me this piece for $50 cash. A few other places wanted $250... quite the variation so be careful when calling around.

I will mount the cooler tonight... hopefully and then can figure out the routing of the lines. Any ideas on how to route the lines from the new front cooler around or on the side of the fender cooler? It does not look like there is much room behind the headlight buckets. Any pic's would be great.

Thanks,









Old 05-12-2009, 06:51 AM
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I had to relocate the horns a little to make room for the oil lines. But you can squeeze them past the bumper brackets and run one up along the inner fender sheet metal and the other outboard up along the headlight bucket to the 120 degree fitting into the fender cooler. I did not take pix of this on my install unfortunately. Try to zip tie them down to hard points to help guide them along.
How are you gonna hang the oil cooler? To the bumper itself or the front of the chassis? just make sure to get as much room as possible behind the cooler for air flow to escape between it and the chassis sheet metal. I wound up mounting my cooler about 1/4 inch behind the fiberglass opening in the spoiler to get about 2 inches behind the cooler of clearance.
took it to Mid ohio this past weekend and oil temps never got above 200 degrees after 30 minutes session. Awesome results.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:42 AM
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Curious: have you contacted the manufacturer about these issues? Basic fitment and lack of foglight mounts are kinda hard to overlook when making a part... What was their response?
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:31 PM
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The oil cooler looks good. Where did you get it, Elephant Racing?

As fas as running the lines, to me it just one of those things where you install the cooler/fittings, then start laying out the lines. Give yourself a little extra when making up the lines. BTW, have you ever made a braided line up before? Using a zig wheel with a compressor will make the cuts much cleaner. I've lieft the tape on when insertin the hose into the fitting to keep the braid from falring out while pushing it in.

Zip tie all to something to keep it from moving or rubbing against something. Use a piece of hold hose in on the new lines to add rub protection.
Old 05-12-2009, 07:41 PM
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How are you going to attach the splitter? Dsuz fastners or bolts?
Old 05-12-2009, 07:42 PM
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Updates and responses

Fredmeister, thanks for the tips. I think the 120 degree connector will work well. I had my stock cooler cleaned and pressure tested today just to make sure she is doing well.

Question for all, where can I find that sensor on the top of the cooler behind the tin? Is that only to turn on the fan in front correct? The cooler accidentally fell and that little silver tab that the electrical connector slides onto broke off. My fan is currently on a toggle switch anyways so I may not replace it.

Chris... TurboKraft, how the heck are you doing? Thanks for all your help/advice when re-doing the motor. The aluminum injector blocks are working great. To answer your question I have not contacted them. They gave me a great deal on this spoiler and I was told that they always do not fit correctly (by many people) so I was expecting to do a little fabrication. I don't think they include the fog light mounts because people use all different types of lights in those holes (even though they match the factory lights) so I guess i didn't sweat it too bad. You bring up a good point.

A930Rocket, The cooler was purchased from a local guy (Cali) and he purchases the cores and then adds mounts, AN size of choice. This cooler has an added row so one more than most coolers and already has bungs for attaching in multiple places. If you are interested PM me and I will let you know. At least 1/2 the price of competitors.

I have included a few pics of the mount. The top is bolted to the bumper. I ended up fixing the bottom to the center bolt that holds on the protection bar that protects the A/C condensor. It has about 1.5 inches behind it and I am using all available space. Hopefully, I will have some photo's of the lines once I get those run or photo's asking for help... you never know with me, I'm just taking this project one day at a time. (Please note that this is mounted loose and will include rubber washers between the bumper and cooler and the bottom mount and cooler. It is solid.)

Thanks for all the help.
Bryan







Old 05-12-2009, 08:04 PM
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Looking good Bryan!

Can’t wait to help you with it later this week, soon as the wife/office/party thing is over with
We can always look at the mounting of my FMOC to get ideas on oil lines?

Mount it solid, them bugs are big here in the valley, they really SPLAT!
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:17 PM
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Pelican carries the switches in two different degree setting IIRC. Good to have in case you forget to turn it on manually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post

Question for all, where can I find that sensor on the top of the cooler behind the tin? Is that only to turn on the fan in front correct? The cooler accidentally fell and that little silver tab that the electrical connector slides onto broke off. My fan is currently on a toggle switch anyways so I may not replace it.
Old 05-12-2009, 10:10 PM
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One more point I want to rehighlight is routing the inlet oil line to the bottom threaded fitting and the outlet line to the top fitting to aid in preventing air bubbles from collecting inside the cooler. Just a little tip I thought of when routing my system. Aids in evacuating the air bubbles that may come out of the oil as it runs thru the cooler.
Looks good so far, I would mount it on rubber pads like you mentioned.....vibration is a killer in aluminum as it aids fatigue resistance in the metal.
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Old 05-13-2009, 07:14 AM
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Updates and a couple questions

Guys,

Here is the oil cooler installed and the car is ready to be started to make sure everything is tight and leak free. I used a 150 degree AN-16 fitting off the fender cooler to help face the line in the appropriate direction. I had to experiment with this... I originally purchased a 120 degree line but it was facing up into the fender so the 150 worked great. I would think a 180 would have been too much. Good to know if anyone is looking at the thread in the future.

I ended up routing the inlet (oil feed) line into the top of the cooler. I had several people to tell me use the bottom of the cooler for the inlet line but it did not seem to make sense. In a normal car with a radiator the hot line feeds into the top and the bottom line is the cold side or return line. Also, this is a closed system so i cannot imagine that it would matter that much once the air is out and the oil is in it's place. I would like your feedback on this to determine the end position.

I also used a brand new seal around the fender cooler and rubber hose to go over the line where it passes through the stone guard tin to make sure it will not eventually cut into the line. I used a dremmel tool to cut both opening so they are precise and I think it turned out ok.

Finally, I have rough cut the aluminum splitter and will show pictures soon once I get the spoiler back from painting.

Hope you enjoy the pics and I look forward to hearing your feedback on my handy work. Just to clarify, there is massive amounts of room between the tire and the line heading down around the back side of the cooler so it all looks great.

Bryan









Old 05-20-2009, 05:34 PM
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Looks good!

Why the heat barrier on one hose? I'd leave it bare to add any cooling possible, even if it's minute.

Also, you may want to either use windlace, split a small diameter rubber tube, etc. around the openings you cut in the stone guard for the oil lines.

Old 05-20-2009, 07:46 PM
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