oil line in tensioner kit short ?

[svandamme]

another question...

left tensioner oil line worked, fitted perfectly

right one ... not so...
do i have a bad oil line or did i do something wrong?

looks like the line is 3/4 inch to short, tried several things but no joy.. also tried removing the little block on near the valve covers . but the thread is different so the banjo connection can't fit.

do i have a defective/line? should it be replaced?

[Rot 911]

You are missing the block that the oil pressure sending unit screws into. Then the oil line screws into that.

[svandamme]

eeh, my oil pressure thing is on top of my engine

do i just find something else to screw in between it?

[Rot 911]

Oops, sorry didn't notice you had a 2.4. That is the wrong oil line. On the correct oil line the rubber portion is about 2" longer. Not sure if they make a longer oil line for the tensioner update. They must because people are doing it.

[svandamme]

they should mention that on the tensioner kit page..

thanks Kurt , i'll ask Pelican if they can get me a replacement, have to order some other tidbits for the finishing up

getting closer to being mobile again... patience is running thin

[Early_S_Man]

The early kits used to include two right-side lines ...

When they discontinued the 'early' line, the kits included a spacer block, and only the shorter line for post-73 engines! Bad move, IMHO!

[Jim Sims]

We had the same issue on my son's 73.5T 2.4 liter; you can leave the oil sender where it is (front of the engine) and obtain a plug for the block you are going to require to make the oil line fit. You will also need some additional parts like a hollow screw, seal rings, etc. See the below images. The first shows the block in place with the hole where the oil pressure sender would normally screw in.




The second shows the plug in place in the block.



I will look up the parts list you need and put it in another reply.

Cheers, Jim

[svandamme]

just noticed their are two oil lines on the PP site

one for CIS and one for non CIS
i'll check with PP and verify if the non CIS one sold seperately is the longer one... for 10 bucks, i'de rather have a fitting line than an inbetween extension..

Jim , that's one clean looking engine your son has...
mine doesn't come near that, even after cleaning

[Jim Sims]

Here's the sender parts information:



The "union bolt" is what I was calling the hollow screw. Note the diagram shows the sender but the parts list gives the part number for the plug.

Cheers, Jim

[RWebb]

revived this old thread to see if....

Stijn,

Did you ever find out about that longer oil line? I'm planning to clean up my engine a bit and want to toss out the sender and block both if I can. Otherwise, I'll use the union bolt Jim posted.

Thanks!

[Won]

Randy,

This line was included in the used tensioner set I bought and obviously it's too long for my application with the sender block:


What is the correct length you need for use without the sender block? If what I have is the correct one and if you want the longer line, I wouldn't mind swapping mine with yours.

Note that I didn't have to muck with the hard line going down to the tensioner so the T where it branches off may actually be where it should be, i.e. if you delete the sender block the T part is going to be located closer to the fan and I'm not sure how the hard line would fit.

[RWebb]

Hi Won,

Mine is (I assume) the stock piece on a 3.2L motor. It looks like the pic below and the end wraps around the corner of the valve cover to the side where it has a banjo fitting on it.

As for the length required, I don't know. If I measure from the case to the rightmost part of the rubber (where the metal flange extends over it), the distance is about 6 1/2 inches.

There is also the issue of how it terminates.