Please Help Car Wont Start.

[friendlyguy64]

I have an 87 porsche 924S.The car has been sitting for 2 years so I decide to buy the car.First things first.I lookesd at the timing belt,looks great, but the car is leaking in the main seal(need to get the whole job done).Then I go out and buy a fuel pressure regulator,fuel pump, fuel filter,intake boot.After all that the car wouldnt start up.I couldnt here the fuel pump turn on.So I check the relay.It was corroded.So then the car started rough idel though.Then just alst week I decided to try to make my car into a turbo from a 951.I take off the manifold then I found out I couldnt put the intercooler because it was all welded form the frame so I had to get a custom one.So I put everything back together and then when i tried to start the car it wouldnt start.I think the injectors are bad since the car has been sitting and it has roughly 93,000 miles on it.Any suggestions.Oh by the way I did do the fuel pump relay first before I bought all that stuff.PLEASE HELP.Where can I get cheap fuel injectors?What would you buy rebuilt or new ones?

[ae1969]

Now I see what you are doing.....

Put it back together as an NA. You need a turbo bottom end for it to all work as well. ......plus a number of other parts.

Ok lets start from the basics.

Confirm....

1. Spark... Check spark at the plugs.
2. Fuel Pressure. Do you have a fuel pressure guage you can attach?
3. Timing. Line up all the marks and make sure they are dead on.

[Moneyguy1]

You need to do a diagnostic in an orderly fashion.

Do you have spark? An in-line tester can be purchased for a few bucks. Eliminates that problem.

Do you have fuel? "Cracking" the cap on the fuel rail(with a rag under it..gas and the distributor do not go well together). If so, remove cap, slip a piece of 3/8 tubing over the outlet, clamp, and put the other end of the hose into a clear plastic container. Have someone crank the engine. Is there flow? If there is, pump is probably OK but in the Haynes book the necessary amount of flow per unit of time is discussed.

No flow? Get under the car, attach voltmeter to the fuel pump wires. Have an assistant crank for a second or two. You should get voltage. The pump receives no voltage in the "on" position IF the engine is not running. If you have no voltsge, check the relay again. Is it seated properly? (since you say you have already replaced it) If you have voltage, you should here the pump whine. If the pump does not whine, the pump is probably bad. If the pump is running and still no flow "upstairs", suspect the filter. Sitting for so long may have gummed up the works.

Removing the pump: Two different size nuts so the pump cannot be wired "backward". Remove the wires. Loosen the strap. Remove the 19mm cap by holding the check valve hex with a 17mm open end (tubing wrenches won't work here, you will see why). Put all the small parts in a Zip lock or equivalent.Slide pump backwards through the strap. Temporarily clamp the flex line with vise grips...May not completely shut the hose. Loosen hose clamp on the inlet of the pump inlet, slide hose off and insert the shank of a 1/2" drill bit. Remove vise grips to reduce possibility of deforming and damaging flex fuel line.

If you have spark and fuel, disconnect one of the injector plugs. With the key on, there should be 12+ volts. If so, then the injectors are getting power. With the injector left unplugged, try cranking the sucker. For some strange reason, if the pressure regulator is bad, the engine can start this way but will not run when the injector is plugged in again. If this is the case, the pressure regulator is not functioning properly.

All this and I still have a 1984 that will not start. Don't assume anything. I installed a new fuel pump and found it defective (it thumps rather than hums, even after being removed and attached to the battery directly) BTW....to reduce the chance of fire, when testing a removed fuel pump, run a 2 foot piece of 12mm flexible fuel line from the inlet to the outlet (closed loop). Also, if you are fast with your fingers, a 1/2" drill bit shank plugs the fuel line from the tank really good rather than a clamp which is "iffy" at best. See above.

Have I forgotten anything?