Headliner Installation

[Mike O'Meara]

I've read with interest the various horror stories about headliner installation, but since the biggest obstacle, removing the windows, was already done, I gave it a try. I hope the following can be of use to future searches on the subject. I had to iron the headliner (low heat) to get the folds from storage out of it, and then trial fit it and left it stretched in place for a week. I had a bad dimple in one spot (pic 1) and thought I'd have to remove the headliner in order to iron it out, but on advice tried steaming it by holding the iron under it and hitting the steam button, and it came out like magic (pic 2). I used Pliobond glue, about 15 rubber tipped clamps ($.49 each at Menards) and vinyl edge molding (very similar to what the factory used on the upper edge of the quarter window opening) and cut it into various lengths to hold the headliner in place after gluing. (pic 3) I really took my time and didn't touch the scissors until I was absolutely sure it was necessary. The corners and curves of the window openings need to be pie-cut to get the liner to lay flat . Other tips as I think of them: Take pictures of the original and the way abutting panels meet it, especially in the back corners. Save the old headliner as reference and to find the locations of the interior lights, clothes hooks and visor mounts. Take pics of those same locations once the old liner is removed, so you have a better idea of what you are looking for. Buy new clips and save the old ones so you have plenty to use. Don't do any trimming of the excess unless you are sure it's necessary for fit, other wise, let the the excess go until the liner is glued in and you are satisfied with the fit. If I think of anything else, I'll edit it in. Oh, keep your hands clean, there are some smudges I hadn't cleaned when the pics were taken. Hope this helps.

[Jeff Alton]

Very nice job!

Cheers

[Shaun @ Tru6]

bookmarked!

You did a significantly better job than the professional interior place that did my E... Twice.

[beamonk]

Having done both sunroof and non, the sunroof one is easier by far. I bought a steamer from walmart and it is really the way to go.

[Evans, Marv]

Thanks for the writeup. I will be doing mine pretty soon. By the way, did you consider putting any kind of insulation above the head liner?

[Mike O'Meara]

Here's what was under the original headliner

[NY65912]

I did a headliner in our '72 Superbeetle with mixed results. You must pull to stretch BUT NOT TO HARD, otherwise the headliner will pull off from glue and pinch connections around the door and window areas after the material goes back to it's original state. Just pull a little past tight.

Ask me how I know!

The heat gun is your friend, but nice and easy!

But I must say that your install looks pretty good from here Mike.

Cheers

[sammyg2]

Mike, I wish you were my next door neighbor
I have a new headliner that has been sitting in a box for 2 years waiting for me to get off my dead butt and install it but I keep putting it off.
Ever think of re-locating to Sunny So Cal so you can walk me through it?

[NY65912]

I felt the same way sammyg2, I looked at mine for 2 years until I had the nerve to attempt it.

It is not as difficult as it might appear.
First the obvious......
All glass comes out
You should do the install on a warm sunny day, so you can lay the headliner in the sun for a few hours to get it soft.
Heat gun mandatory and lots and lots of clips. I used large binder clips ala staionary store.
There are 4 or 5 metal rods that are of different lengths that fit into sewn in pockets on the inside center section of the headliner.
Once you have installed the rods you center up the liner in relation to side to side.
You pull the front section out and over the windshield lip contact cement and clip. Do the same for the rear.
DO NOT PULL TO HARD, just nice and taut.
I found the door areas to be the most tricky part of the process.
You pull one side and with a plastic putty knife push it into the folded metal lip on the inside of the roof again using contact cement and peen over the lip of the roof. Repeat other side.
The sides of the c pillar are the tough part. Again contact cement and relief cuts.

After doing one so-so I now believe I could do a MUCH better job.

Patience, taking your time and a little finesse is all that is needed.

Also, there is a video on this install that is quite good, by a VW interior co., I believe J Bugs.
Good Luck to all.

[sammyg2]

Patience, taking your time and finesse? I guess that rules out my tendency to use a BFH

[Mike O'Meara]

Ever think of moving to sunny So Cal? Hmmm... It's 25 degrees out with snow in the forecast, I drive an old Porsche only when the weather permits, and I work outside year round. Hmmm.... is there room on the freeway for one more midwesterner?

[Dan in Pasadena]

For what it is worth, I had a new headliner installed on my '76 only three weeks ago since it is undergoing a full respray and all the glass was out anyway. I bought my headliner at GAF in September from Auto's International - great show price by the way.

The original upholsterer that my painter knew was unavailable so I went looking and mostly everyone was too busy to do it on short notice. I ended up at a teeny tiny little shop - more of a carport with a fence around it honestly - just around the corner from my house. After getting estimates as low as $125 (too cheap, shop was a s***hole) up to $350 for the installation alone, this local shop quoted $150 - again, I thought "too low" and the shop was little but the guy sounded trustworthy, etc. and I saw some of his work in the shop...I took a chance.

I think he regretted his quote as it took longer and was a bigger hassle than he anticipated....but he stood by his price. I felt bad for the guy so I threw him an extra $30 as the job came out GREAT. This is a sunroof car. To me, this is one of those jobs you CAN do yourself, but I am too impatient and I would probably get 90% done only to ruin it with a mistaken cut. Good luck to whomever tries to do it themselves, I'll stick with mechanical work.

[Kmatts]

Great effort. looks fantastic.

[kfosburg]

I'm trying to replicate this effort this weekend... quick question - When I removed the 4 retaining rods, I thought they were identical so I didn't label which was which. Obviously, I was wrong!

I think that the two identical ones with green paint on the ends are the foremost two, but not sure about the other two. One of the other two has yellow paint on the end and other a cream color. Is there a guide? Does it matter much?

Thanks,

Karl

[TWork]

Karl,

Of the four rods, you should use the shorter (narrower) rods as you move toward the tail end of the car. I don't think the colors on the rods in an indicator of anything in particular.

T.

[kfosburg]

It can be done by a BFH kind of person... it took me probably 8 hours total and required my wife and kids being away at the inlaws, and avoiding beer while working on it, but it was worth it... Not a perfect job, but hoping the couple of little wrinkles come out with time and a little steam.

Additional tidbits of advice...

1. Re-emphasize - don't throw away the old one - I made this mistake three months ago not thinking how much extra thought it required not having it.

2. pie cuts start right at the pinch seam that you are gluing to and go directly radially out, keep this in mind and you don't have to think /worry as much.

3. if it's cool out (40F when I started on this), cover the windows and put a space heater inside - worked like a charm, got the interior up to about 80F and made the vinyl more pliable.

4. I went in this order:
a. front, started at center and worked outward.
b. sides near the front and did A pillar
c. sides worked front to back and did B pillar and stopped
d. top rear window - started at center and worked outbound
e. top inside of rear quarter window - started at B pillar and worked around the back curve, made sure to clamp a lot of the other sides.
f. C pillar base which was a bit tricky and ended up gluing down at the base of the C pillar which worked well - two of my little triangle pinch downs were broken and this worked OK. NOTE: My glue line at the base of the C piller is a little too far outward... when putting the rear parcel shelf cover in there is about a 1/4" gap between its edge and the headliner. The proper line should be about where the tape line is in my C pillar pic.
g. outside of rear windows working front to back

5. took the advice of putting all screws in beforehand and that's a big help to locate them.

6. little clamps from home depot - 37 cents each and I used about 50 of them!

Tomorrow, interior bits and quarter windows going back in. Then dash, and wait till next week for the window guy.

Karl

[BlueSideUp]

This is an old thread but I like to see such great work. After seeing Alex's '74 (PRE-H2O) beautiful black headliner my original ivory headliner isn't looking too good.

I'm debating whether I should go original with the ivory headliner in my beige interior car (well just the to be replaced seats and the door panels are still beige) or a black headliner.

[Evans, Marv]

Some like the black for matching the rest of the interior or for the richness of the color. Others like the ivory because it contributes to the ambient light in the interior.

[RoninLB]

changed from ivory to black.

New ivory would look dirty fast with my act.

[wayner]

I see pelican sells clips that go on around the window opening.

Does anyone have any pictures or advice with where those go? My car came without a headliner and I will be doing an install.

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