The fact that you are using Webers and not MFI or EFI has a major influence on the design of your fuel system. The Webers do not require high pressure fuel and so the lines can be smaller and lighter. Other factors you should consider are:
1. Stock tank or fuel cell? If you maintain the stock tank (which is plenty strong, and can be deformed to half its original volume before the seam will split) there is probably no need to update the lines. If you go with an ATL cell these are top-loading and you will need the fuel pump to be at or above the level of the fuel for it to prime correctly, which rules out the crossmember-mounted stock pump. If you go with a Fuel Safe these have rear outlets near the steering rack similar to the factory tank.
2. Hose type and fittings. I wanted a bulletproof MFI system and went with stainless braided aeroquip -6AN, with anodized aluminum fittings. This was time consuming and very expensive ($1000) to construct and install and is probably overkill for the 2 Bar pressure required by MFI. Aeroquip makes a lightweight, kevlar-covered hose that I would use were I to do it again. For a carb application, depending on whether you intend all-out racing or not, the factory cloth braided hose may be fine. Pelican sells it for about $4/foot. Under no circumstances would I use anything other than this hose-- the american smooth rubber stuff cannot be trusted. 7mm or 8mm diameter should work.
3. Fuel pump, pressure gauge, regulator. If this is an all-out racing application it is not unheard of to use dual pumps for redundancy. FACET makes an original-looking pump, I've seen two of them in the back of some 911R clones. I am using a Mallory pump and a Weldon fuel pressure regulator (that set me back a huge amount), in a "reciruculating" style as Tyson (who REALLY knows this stuff I would add) indicates. Recirc style keeps the fuel cooler, is less prone to vapor lock, and will deliver the volume of fuel you need immediately. The "dead-head" style with a single line may be adequate for a carb application particularly because there's a reserve of fuel in the float bowls. For a good article on design of fuel systems check this link:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp
The Holley red gear you listed above should be fine, it's what many of the Weber carb guys use. If you want a fuel pressure gauge, you can either mount a direct-reading one to the regulator with a 1/8" NPT fitting, or you can use a fuel pressure sender and electric VDO gauge from North Hollywood Speedometer. I would NOT run a direct reading gauge to the cockpit as this will introduce a fire hazard into the driving compartment. In any case, once you get the pressure set the regulator should not require much adjustment, although if you experience starvation it's a nice feature to have in the cockpit.