1979 930 Timing Specs
 

This should be an easy one for you guys.

How can I confirm if I have a Euro or US version?

I was told that the car was imported in the 80's after it was 5 years old so that it would be exempt from emission regulations and that it is a Euro version.

The car had an fresh air pump which has been since disconnected
The distributor only has a vacuum advance pot.

I have been reading through the manual but am confused as to whether the vacuum line should be disconnected while setting the timing at idle.

The US model differs in that the vacuum line should be connected when checking the timing at 4K.

What timing specs should I be using for timing at idle and at 4K?

I am having trouble getting a smooth idle with the vacuum line connected at the distributor (will only idle at around 750 and is rough) and when increasing the idle it seems to be lean and seems to be "happy" at 15deg ATDC.

When I disconnect the vacuum line I am able to achieve a smoother idle at approx. 1k at around 0 to a few degrees ATDC. However, when I reconnect the vacuum line the engine seems to stumble.

I am not able to increase the rpm's in with either the vacuum line connected or disconnected without it sounding as though it is running lean.

Thoughts on this?

Side note:
I have checked all vacuum lines for leaks with a smoke tester and all seems to be good.
I have replaced the following:
CDI
Spark Plugs
Cables
Distributor Rotor

Rebuilt the following:
WUR
CDI

Thanks,

Bill

Find the engine designation number on the case to the right of the fan housing behind the oil pressure sender. Euro will be 930/60 USA 930/64
The engines mechanically are identical except for the exhaust systems so as long as you don’t have thermal reactors you want to set the timing to 29 BTDC @4000 rpm and let the timing fall where it may at Idle. If the distributor is working correctly should be around 5 BTDC at idle.

Any timing setting ATDC is a big no- no with these engines and will result in a list of issues like running hot, poor performance, poor throttle response, terrible turbo lag and more.

Richard

easiest is probably to check the vin

Thanks guys!!! I'm at the extreme on the rotation available at the distributor, I'm not able to rotate it any more clockwise to achieve 29 BTDC. I'll get my hands in there tomorrow after it cools and report back!

Reset the distributor one tooth if you can’t get to 29 @ 4k rpm

Richard

No expert here but I also have a '79 freshly back from the shop today with what sounds like something similar to you.

My car once warmed up, was having a terrible time at idle. Barely able to hold at 800ish and eventually would die.

Also suffered from challenging cold/warm starts after car had been sitting a few hours. Cold startup first of the day was fine.

My mechanic traced it to the fuel pressure regulator valve. There is a pin/plunger inside that should move freely based on pressure. It was stuck causing very high pressure (should be 53 but was 95) indicating a possible blockage. He was able to cleanup the pin and free it up to move again. Not sure my explanation is great but hopefully it gives you something else to think about.

He also talked about pump vs system pressure and I couldn't write fast enough to notate which one he was referring to (remember that when reading my explanation as well :). He said he can't be 100% but he believes possibly the inside of the hose may deteriorate and allow a piece to get lodged in the pin. Just a theory on a 45 year old car but he had seen something similar before. Could also have been bad fuel but I almost solely run Chevron with Techron from a single local gas station for what that's worth.

I agree that you should probably look at the fuel distributor first to see if the control pressures are reasonable.

Who knows what has been done to a grey market car, but here are the timing details for 3.3L EURO car:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1728507096.jpg