Valve adjusting RANT!!!

[mark houghton]

Undoubtedly the one chore that we love the most. I've been dicking around with 930's now for about 17 years...with a brief break between my last (RIP) and my current. My first adjustment was on my first 930, and at the time I had the engine out. Easy peezy. This time it will be in the car and OH MY GOD...soooo much crap in the way since she still has all of the smog garbage. Drivers side access to the intake valves a royal PITA, just removing the stinkin' air filter housing for the air pump was damn near impossible - but it had to go.
So: people have said to drop the engine a few inches to get better access to the covers and I may just do that. Looks like I may also have to remove the waste gate and maybe some of the air injection plumbing but we'll see.
May try the back side adjustment method vs the standard. The go-no go approach seems to make sense.
Any and all pointers would be appreciated. And "while I'm in there", new plugs and probably a new passenger side CV joint since discovering that the boot is torn.
Final comment: 71 year old bodies can take only short periods of contortional abuse before one's back starts to scream. I may be at this for a while.

[Alan L]

A hoist helps the 70 yo+ bodies. So many jobs I would dread to think about become simple.
As for the WG and the lower valve cover - yes - you may have trouble removing the cover. It will depend on the length of the stud on the valve cover (nearest the WG). From memory I replaced that one with one a bit shorter. It will also depend on the configuration of the J pipe. You may get lucky.
Don't forget to run the engine for a minute or two before hand - to purge the crankcase of oil. (Or - jack the vehicle up on the side you are working on.) Yes it gets slightly warm - but by the time you pull the bits off it will be near room temp. Better than a face full of oil.
I haven't had to try lowering the engine, but I don't have all that smog crap.
Good luck. I still use the 4 thou feeler gauge method.
Alan

[mark houghton]

Originally Posted by Alan L

Good luck. I still use the 4 thou feeler gauge method.
Alan

Thanks Alan. A hoist would be so nice but I don't have the room and justification for one, so will do it the hard way. I've already drained the oil but surely will still have some puking out regardless. Hoping I don't have to screw around with the WG and/or J pipe but guess we'll see. I do have the .004 feeler gauge, just thought I'd explore the backdoor method.

A labor of love...or so I tell myself.

[Alan L]

if you have drained the oil you won't have a problem - but I think it is still easier to do the underside by jacking that side up a bit. Just seems like a better angle to work with. The WG will be a suck it and see - depending on the J pipe and the valve cover studs. Take note before removing the valve cover as to whether you can afford to loose a few threads off that lower stud by the WG. If you then run into problems you know how far you can go with that approach. Mine just clears the WG, no spare room.
Alan

[Alan L]

I am lucky - I built my garage to take a hoist - some of the best money I have spent.
Most people don't have room for a hoist, some struggle to find room for the car.
But my 70+ yo back, knees and neck thank me for the hoist most days. My 930 pretty much lives on it. It is a good day when it is actually mobile enough to be able to use the hoist for another car.
In the last few days I have;
removed the LH chain case (oil leak at the tensioner). That involved removing the turbo, IC and recirc valve body (to get to one lousy nut), and rear engine tin.
Redone rear suspension issues - broke a camber adjuster (Elephant racing one)
replaced a steering knuckle - had steering issues. That involved freeing the steering rack.
Can't do without the hoist.
Poor old beast has been in the wars lately.
Alan

[painting223]

Sounds like a tough job, especially with all that smog equipment in the way. Dropping the engine a few inches should help. The back-side adjustment method is a solid approach—go/no-go works well. Definitely replace the torn CV boot while you're at it. Take breaks—your back will thank you!

[gorskined]

it takes some patience. much more confined than the regular 911. Mine is row so no smog stuff thank God.
I just ran into the lower valve cover stud waste gate issue, thought it was just something out of alignment on my car didn't realize it was a real thing . That was easily solved with a 14mm 356 nut . spun it on and then backed with a 13mm 911 nut . then backed the stud out with a 14mmm1/4 inch socket. i also find it easy to do one side at a time the 4 rotation method 123 replace covers tilt to the other side 645. you don't even need to drain the oil .

what is everyone's opinion on using the long thin feeler gauge to slide between the cam and the rocker in stead of between the adjustment and the valve ? I've done it both ways in the past and checked both ways and never really noticed a difference. i find the long feeler gauge to be easier on a few on hard to access valves.


Regards Ned

[gorskined]

it takes some patience. much more confined than the regular 911. Mine is row so no smog stuff thank God.
I just ran into the lower valve cover stud waste gate issue, thought it was just something out of alignment on my car didn't realize it was a real thing . That was easily solved with a 14mm 356 nut . spun it on and then backed with a 13mm 911 nut . then backed the stud out with a 14mmm1/4 inch socket. i also find it easy to do one side at a time the 4 rotation method 123 replace covers tilt to the other side 645. you don't even need to drain the oil .

what is everyone's opinion on using the long thin feeler gauge to slide between the cam and the rocker in stead of between the adjustment and the valve ? I've done it both ways in the past and checked both ways and never really noticed a difference. i find the long feeler gauge to be easier on a few on hard to access valves.


Regards Ned

[zakthor]

Reaching that first valve on drivers side I had to twist and turn my arm to thread the hand in there so fingers could just reach the tool. Felt sort of dangerous - like something was going to break if I slipped off the stool.

[mark houghton]

Originally Posted by gorskined

what is everyone's opinion on using the long thin feeler gauge to slide between the cam and the rocker in stead of between the adjustment and the valve ? I've done it both ways in the past and checked both ways and never really noticed a difference. i find the long feeler gauge to be easier on a few on hard to access valves.RegardsNed

I may end up using both methods depending on ease of access.

[mark houghton]

UPDATE for those of you that have nothing better to do than listen to an old guy rant.
Got the valve covers off today. Drivers side exhaust: I was lucky and didn't have to remove the waste gate or have clearance issues with the J pipe or studs. But as for the intake cover; well, let's just say I used up my entire vocabulary of swear words. For those that are so fortunate to still have smog crap, take note that the air pump that injects to the exhaust manifolds must be removed...it sits right on top of the forward edge of the valve cover. Good thing I have skinny arms, long fingers, and am good at braille and working blind. "I think" I have enough access to adjust those valves, just barely. Would probably be easier yet if I were to also remove the boost recirculation manifold but screw that!

[vibeshappy]

Sounds like a tough job with all that smog gear in the way! Dropping the engine a bit or trying the back-side adjustment method should help. Good call on replacing the CV joint and plugs while you’re at it. Take it slow and listen to your body—those contortions can be rough! Good luck!

[Alan L]

That manifold is only 3 bolts and a couple of hoses. Took mine off a few days ago. Regular occurence in my shed.
Give yourself a even chance and pull it. Then you will have plenty of room.
Try doing a valve timing check while in there. BTDT. Try adjusting the valve timing while you are in there. BTDT. Then you really will have a new swear vocab.
Alan

[dedyplay]

Take it slow and listen to your body..Great job

[mark houghton]

Adjustments done. Found 3 that I felt were too tight, the rest were OK as-is. What a royal pain in the posterior. Now need to bolt everything back together....air pump, boost recirculation manifold, AC compressor, hoses and gulp valves and God knows what else when I ask myself "where does this go"? Slap in some new plugs, cap and rotor, new fan belt, then on to the CV joint diagnosis.
My eyesight is failing, my back is toast, and I'm only 1/3 done. I still enjoy wrenching on these machines but only in short spurts before anger, frustration, and copious swear words overwhelm me. Eventually drives me to a shot of whiskey to calm down. Life is good when you own and maintain a 930.

[Alan L]

I get so much satisfaction out of sorting issues in my cars, then enjoying them working well. The drive is so much better. It is part of the relationship of owning these priceless old beasts.
You will feel great and the back ache will fade.
Alan

[Alan L]

If you did remove the recirc body, there are a couple of tricks regarding fitting it - things to avoid. You know all this - but having done it many times I have made all the possible mistakes.
The LH hose on the decel valve body is tricky to re- fit. You can't do it with the body in place. I fit it first - while I can freely move the body to where I need it. You sort of have to fish it out from the depths and loop it over the nipple. Once on you can seat the body. Don't forget the other hose down on the lower LHS. Also when bolting the body down, pay attention to where the hoses and wires are - like the dizzy vac hose, boost gauge, o/boost wire etc. The decel valve can trap stuff underneath it or on the wrong side of it. Not much room under there. And it is possible to trap stuff under the base of the recirc body. All of this means pulling it off and starting again. Take it slow, pay attention and just do it once.
Regards
Alan

[mark houghton]

Yep, kinda discovered that when taking it off. Gotta lift it up somewhat just to access the clamps and hard hoses that have been on there since rocks were still soft. They can be a real bugger. Do it all again in reverse order. Tempted to do the recirc delete/long neck IC workaround that I did years ago, but an awful amount of work just to gain a little less boost lag and weight reduction. I say to myself..."self, let's not get carried away here"!

[Bucketlist]

Originally Posted by mark houghton

Yep, kinda discovered that when taking it off. Gotta lift it up somewhat just to access the clamps and hard hoses that have been on there since rocks were still soft. They can be a real bugger. Do it all again in reverse order. Tempted to do the recirc delete/long neck IC workaround that I did years ago, but an awful amount of work just to gain a little less boost lag and weight reduction. I say to myself..."self, let's not get carried away here"!

At my age,
I usually ask .....Self, do I plan to take this apart again in this lifetime?
If the answer is yes, go for the longneck, you will thank yourself in the future.
If no just put it back together and pretend you never thought about it.

[mark houghton]

New plugs in (NGK BR7EIX, a touch hotter than 8's for street use), valves adjusted and covers back on but not yet torqued down (torque wrench in there? Yeah, hah, right). Now to bolt everything back together top-side...which will prove to be another barrel full of monkeys.
Continuing rant: If I ever get a wild hair up my ass and decide to do this again, I'll pull the engine.
Remaing yet to pull the right side axle to inspect suspected CV joint, at a minimum replace the torn boot.
Been some time since I've wrenched this deeply on a 930, can't say I'm not enjoying it in some twisted sort of way.