Your dad had excellent taste in cars! Lucky you. I’m sorry to hear of his dementia situation; there is so much of that going on around me now and each case is a unique tragedy. You have my sympathy. Once you get the 930 sorted I hope it always reminds you of the good times with him.

[QUOTE=wnmimms;12470396]So I’m at 4deg ATDC at 950rpm and 27deg BTDC at 4k.

Your engine sounds mostly stock so my experience from the hot rod side may not be applicable. Nice Vett by the way, one like that has always been on my bucketlist.

Many years ago when fighting performance I found that there was no advance on cold start (4 deg ATDC) because vacuum was blocked by the temp switch. (I think this was purely for emissions) The PO had already removed the Cat and installed headers. I removed that vacuum line from the temp switch and ran it direct to the vacuum advance. I set my timing to about 10* BTDC for better cold start and low end performance. Centrifugal advance comes in just off idle (1500 rpm) and I set full advance to 31* at 4000 rpm.

For Control Pressure in the dash I connected a fuel pressure sensor at the wur and ran wires to a gauge in the dash. I also have a c/p gauge at the wur.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748175220.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748175309.jpg

[QUOTE=Bucketlist;12470622] I like the idea of a CP gauge in the dash. Just have to source the necessary gauge/sensor and fittings.
I too run with advance at idle...around 8° currently. Makes quite a difference. I haven't checked advance at 4000 yet, need to find a helper to stand on the throttle for me.

Thanks Ken, I did get it back up to Kentucky where he is and was able to take him for a ride with the top down just like old times! The corvette had been sitting for nearly 30 years. That car was a piece of cake compared to the 930!


He certainly did have good taste in cars. They were our “father son thing” we made a trip to Monterey for the auction, Laguna Seca for the vintage car race and finished off in Pebble Beach for the Concourse de Elegance each year. Was such a good time!

Hey, not to hijack your thread sir but I have recently bought an 83 which needs a little love and having pretty much the same issues! Following along closely, if I manage to fix my issue I'll of course post the information here to see if you have any use of it!

Thanks,

Rhys

RhysM, no worries... we are all in this together. Well I ran the borescope in, wrapped the joint with duct tape so I could get a decent seal and started it up. Well the blades have some chips and the turbo isn't spinning.... so there's your problem! Ugh! Well I have the rear bumper off and 2 of the 8 nuts/bolts loose...I'm thinking I'm going to need to get my oxy/acetylene tanks refilled to get these loose. I guess after getting it out I'll be sending it to Evergreen for a rebuild and follow their advice on modifications, etc. I'll post some pictures once I get the turbo out of there.

Ahhhhhh.......crap. At least you now know the path forward.

Ah man that’s no good. Im a few steps behind you, waste gate has been rebuilt so going to pressure test that as you’ve done. I haven’t had the bov apart to check there that’s the next step! Fingers crossed the rebuild will be your fix!

Check the air injection nozzles, remove them and plug the holes. They are just siting there slowly degrading until they break off and damage the turbo.
Bummer that this happened.

Great thread . i had no advice to add but learned quite a bit .
Glad you figured it out probably a good thing it wasn't spooling only a matter of time until that little rip in your diaphragm completely failed causing an even bigger problem .. if it helps i love my evergreen k27 raptor mod turbo , a nice slow gradual spool unlike the old on and off 3ldz but all depends on the type of driving you do . .. and given the cost of these motors well worth it to add the afr gauge.

Mark, Yep.. it does, to your point at least I know where to go... just was hoping for something less expensive.

RhysM,

The BOV/boost recirculating part of the equation isn't too bad to take apart. Those seals at each end of the piston on my car had completely degraded.

Reclino,

Good point. I do need to get them out of there. After I refill my oxy/acty tanks I'll be in a better postion to heat shock them and get them out without breaking them off.

Gorskined,

If you do a search under my name you can read through this adventure. There is a ton of info in there from a lot of folks that really have been very helpful and open to freely sharing their knowledge. I'll also add they have stuck with me for over a year as I have been trying to sort this all out.

The other thread is focused on the CIS/WUR/Fuel Distributor/Boost Recirculating system/Distributor/Bosch CDI box.

So you like the Evergreen K27 raptor? I do like the brutal on/off of the existing turbo, it takes me down memory lane to when my dad bought the car back in 1979.

The car is a Euro model and completely original, it really needs a rebuild to seal everything up and has about 42k miles on it but the seals leak...as I'm sure you know. Given the current state of things mechanically, I'd be hesitate to do anything to get more hp out it and then find myself with a big repair bill.

Quick question:

Are the nuts in this picture welded to the flange?

I'm hoping to get a handle on how best to break these bolts/nuts free. (I only have one nut left on the other flange and all the nuts and bolts pictured below still yet to break free.

I plan to use my oxy/acetylene torch to heat shock them. However, if I can't safely do this I'm wondering if I could just cut them loose with my plasma torch. I have a heat blanket I can use to protect everything around this area.

If the nuts are captive/welded to the flange and I cut the heads off the bolts off I'd be stuck with the remaining thread on the four bolts and still likely have the turbo stuck there and unable to get the flange free from the rimenates of the bolts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748464346.jpg

Thx. Bill

answer: No

Bill,

The nuts are not no! luckily.

I dismantled the recirc last night, the seals were but a crusty residue on either cap. The piston was also completely seized in the bore. With a lot of due care managed to free it with easing oil, bore was in good shape a few little patches of very light corrosion (where it's been seized for 20 years most likel). Dressed and cleaned it all, lovely and free now. Waiting on seals today/tomorrow to rebuild on the weekend. Need to tackle an oil leak next I have somewhere under the engine, thought it was my cases but it's blowing. H

RhysM,

Great you were able to get it out of there. My seals were dust too. I wish I only had a single oil leak! I don't have the space in my garage to pull the engine and rebuild it. My long term will be to purchase a big compressor and build a vapor blasting cabinet then do a nut and bolt restoration on the engine. Replace all hoses, etc. Keep us posted on how things shake out after you get the recirc put back together.

Got her all back together.

She's boosting! and boy does she pull.. but I'm having it around 5Kish rpm's it starts to 'break up' for lack of a better term, stumlbes? I think it could fuelling but I'm not well versed enough with turbo engines, it doesn't pull as hard I'm sure it's something quite simple but it's a hoot to say the least!.

Same “get a wideband AFR gauge” counsel applies to you as well, good sir. That breaking up you describe could be a few things, but it could also be lean detonation that could quickly damage your rings and piston ring-lands. Stay out of that condition until you can monitor what is going on.

Or you might be over boosting and your ignition cuttoff is kicking in...

Possible, but usually manifests itself as not simply stumbling, but as a complete shutdown and sudden deceleration "face in the dash" as we fondly refer to it. Pretty dramatic if you've ever experienced it, gives you a "WTF!" moment.

It sounds like RhysM has a new to him car that hasn't run in a while (per the 20 year comment of frozen BOV piston). Stumble at 5000 on boost may simply be old dried o'rings at the IC and/or up pipe morphing out of shape under boost pressure and creating a super rich mixture.

As gsxrkn stated, could be several things. Fuel, timing, WUR control pressures...the standard littany. Lots of stuff needs to be checked out yet to be safe

Gents,

Thank you for the replies!

Mark, replaced all of the O rings and hoses to the IC. one hose was folding from deterioration. It's new to me yes, but cars/bikea re not new to me. It sounds like from my experience overfuelling. A friend I sent a video of it to replied to me just now and believes it could be fuel pressure so WUR related.

I'm in America next week, so will update asap. Having a Rarly8 made to bring back with me! making the trip all the sweeter!