Would love to see the horsepower gains, no intercooler vs a2a vs a2w.

I had a time with no intercooler on a 3.0 930 engine and back to back with one. I felt more lag with one but it felt better with it same boost. I was only running .6bar. and immediately put a .9bar spring on and never looked back.
That's when all my clutch problems began if I remember correctly. Next was transaxles.

I run water methanol injection and no intercooler between 1.15 and 1.7 bar of boost. So interested in his power gains with the two types of intercooling. And if it was tracked how hot would the water in the system get?

Unfortunately, I dont have a dyno sheet from the A2A since the car is cursed. Clutch never holds for various reasons on dynos.

Weird how the clutch can hold on the street and dragstrip, but not a dyno with a huge drum (Dynojet).

Dyno #1 by PO - metallic 6-puck had milled away the flywheel surface until the clamping force was compromised slipping

Dyno #2 - my fault, told the owner of the mobile dyno that dont worry about slipping clutch as it is Kevlar when backing up long ramps. Reading the internet can really give you bad information (reading Kevlar can slip without burning up).

Clutch slips right at 4500 RPM and bangs rev limiter every time (nearing peak torque according to the fuel numbers) and it was just showing over 400whp at that time.

Dyno #3 - RMS leak plus slipped clutch from previous session further wiped out disc (if you're asking why I went back again, is because the clutch was totally fine on the street and running into the dyno owner again, he offered another 3 runs for free, so I had nothing to lose)

Ok, some new data that has been the best yet................kinda

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83F ambient today (not a typo, stupid Texas weather)

Start up and see 87F from cold to fully warm with occasional dropping to 86F.

That is 3-4 over ambient at cruise. Nice!

I was consistently seeing 20F before over ambient at cruise, so I think I have gotten more water into the system by rerouting the remote fill cap (although I know its still not 100% full).

Then I do my favorite pull. Drop to 3rd at around 68-70 MPH and hold it to redline.

I see a peak of 106F. That's a rise of 19F over cruise inlet temps and 23F over ambient.

So, from this latest data, I am seeing good cruise inlet temps over ambient, but under 1.4 of boost is still higher than the A2A.

But the caveats are still twofold:

1. No cooling fan(s) on the heat exchanger
2. No idea how full the system is

I am pondering putting a long, skinny rectangular tank (say maybe a gallon or more) in between the shock towers in the rear so the water level will not be a factor. The pump will constantly have water on the inlet side.

To add a fan I have not decided how yet. Real estate is so limited and making an offset sheetmetal shroud is some figuring.

The system works pretty good as it is so I have not been in a hurry to work out all the improvements.

Good numbers keep going

Yeah, it’s kind of fun seeing gains.

The IC itself looks so good, it’s the heat exchanger side that takes away the fun. LOL

You will get it figured out and then it will be all fun. My opinion is all this stuff is fun and challenging I wish I could dig right into this mod I am doing and get it done but I don’t have time before I have to go to work so I am working on the perimeter stuff getting what I can done so when the time comes I just dig in.

Good luck man! Been eyeballing those transmissions myself.

I had a kevlar clutch disc also originally and it would slip under power as peak torque approached on the street. I had to go with a metallic 6 puck to hold the power especially at 1.7 bar of boost. A little difficult driving it in traffic but what can you do as you approach these kind of horsepower numbers. I tried to find a twin disc for my set up but no one willing to make one back then. I enjoy your out of the box approach to the ultimate reliable search for horsepower and street ability.

930 box? I remember GJF saying he had KEP make a dual disc for his G50

Mine is a shortened 930 box so not much room in the shortened bell housing. My chassis is a 75.

I had similar issues with another car that I used W2A IC on it, I have found that when you go for a bigger radiator/HE combo, the more capacity you need for the reservoir, or you will end up with air pockets that will eventually cause higher temps.

Good to know, thanks

Thought I would share one more observation.

I noticed that if I keep throttle at say ~0.5 bar of boost, the temps stay dead on cruise temps or maybe 1-2F higher at most.