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CO/O2 Guru's
As I have stated before, I have a 1986 930 that I have removed all smog equipment, and replaced the cat and muffler with an early 80's euro. (Single pipe, I never liked the dual pipe). I just basically wanted to get rid of all the heat that the cat generates and the smog equip to make servicing easier. I don't track the car, and for right now not going to make any other changes/enhancements. I always run prem fuel. My questions are for the effect of the O2 sensor and CO adjustment. I currently have the O2 disconnected and the CO at 2%. I'd like to know the pros and cons of:
1)Setting the CO back to specs .6 +- .2 and reconnecting the O2 2) Leaving the O2 disconnected and increasing the CO to 3-4% per recomendations from this board. What effect does the O2 have on setting the CO? |
The sensor will try to get your car to run at 0%, that is Stoich. All fuel will be burnt, emmisions will be low, fuel economy good.
The bad news is that our cars like a richer mixture for cooling to preserve the engine... Have you seen pics of pistons eaten by detonation ? |
In theory, as long as I don't have detonation, I should not suffer any damage from setting the CO to spec and connecting the O2 ? The reason I am asking is I use this car for long trips (highway) and I'd like to set it to spec for the trips, (gas mileage) then when I am home fatten the CO and disconnect the O2, as that is when I would do more spirited driving.
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Fit a wideband AFR gauge, then you will know what is going on. You cannot hear damaging detonation. Something like the Innovate LM1.
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Nathan, Thanks for the consistent replies. I find it hard to believe that setting the CO to spec and running the O2 could possibly damage a stock engine. Going leave the O2 disconnected for now and play with the CO between 2-4% to see where it runs best. I'd really like to be able to run stock specs on trips though, for the mileage....Been looking at the LM-1's may follow that route to really be able to see what it is actually doing. Thanks again for all the help...
Tim. |
Can I connect a digital multimeter to the O2 sensor, get a voltage reading then convert to a CO %? Where would I get the conversion table?
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If your car is stock then running with sensor connected should be fine. Checking the AFR's is your answer for peace of mind.
The stock sensor is a narrow band and only good for measuring 0% (stoich). Our engines need approx. 4% at full boost or 12-1 AFR. The stock sensor is not accurate at checking this. Get a wideband setup fitted ! |
Tim, what affect has removing cat +stock muffler made? I have an 88 stock that I am considering doing the same vs a test pipe. Any comments? By the way I have a place on IOP, do you do your on wrench or do you use someone in Charleston?
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Brett - Sent you a PM...
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Quote:
I'm going to take your advice on the LM-1.... tim. |
Regarding the VOM as a monitor on a narroew band O2 sensor; it can be done. I experimented with this years ago on a fuel injected 914. I discovered the maximum power was acheived @ .945 to .985 volts. I had a real-time adjustment in the car. I could set the O2 @ .500 (stoich) and the power was noticably reduced but great milage for the long haul. If I increased the mixture to above .985 the power would again drop off due to over-rich condition. The maximum output voltage of a narrow band 02 is 1.000 volt by design, my Fluke 77 would register 1.006. That's reasonably close. I don't know how the output voltage relates to A/F ratio but I couldn't argue with the seat-of-the-pants real-time test results. Also, be sure the circuit loading is minimal on your test meter. I believe it's at least 100K per volt on the Fluke. An inexpensive meter will not work.
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When the AFR is producing maximum power on boost it can be damaging our engines. We need to go slightly richer. For a NA car it would be fine. At cruise we do not need 12-1 we can go leaner.
Tim, not sure how that would work. Possibly it would spend too much time trying to fight each other and it wouldn't be good for anything. |
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