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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 10
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Newbie
Hi Im in Hong Kong my english Name is Andy
I have a friend who has a 1989 porsche 930 its a special edition he says convertible he said something about being a G50 anyway its been sat at another garage for years starts now and again but alot alot of white smoke, tried to start no start no electric jumped it started no start just crank , check fuel pumps and delivery to that fuel distributing thing and nothing check front pump found broke. ordered a new pump took 2 weeks then fitted it started it and boom it starts with alot of smoke, got it in the garage got the engine out the car and now stripping it the alternator wires are all melted need to fix that and i broke a oil hose coming out oops, i was wondering do i have to time it up before i can remove the chain and cams etc etc oh yeah im helping him rebuild and would like alot of advice like if pistons need changing and the cylinders or just the rings and main and conrod bearings Thanks Andy |
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Quote:
![]() A lot of questions without any information about why etc... More info is needed and maybe a pic from car (recommended for newbies)
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Roland 930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list |
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it smoke unbelieveable yes pics will be up soon
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Join Date: Sep 2012
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pics more coming
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ok alot of questions one is is that a g50 gearbox and whats so good about it? do i need any specuial porsche tools to remove the chain and camshaft? that distributor is it removeable i dont want to damage it its well stiff haha is that the crankshaft mark suppose to be line with crankcase? what are these two other marks? do i have to time before i remove crank pulley and take chain and cams out? |
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Holy crow, If you really want to help your friend, you need to put the tools down immediately and overnight Wayne's book to yourself. Available on this site or amazon.
Amazon.com: How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines 1965-1989 (9780760310878): Wayne R. Dempsey: Books Good luck, man.
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Ken 1986 930 2016 R1200RS |
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Brando
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Slow down and brethe man!
call or ask more questions, get it to a reputable show for checkup first. It does look weathered though. These cars all smoke upon startup after long periods of non use. The smoke goes away!
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Turbo powa! 1977 911s. it's cool |
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Nothing has to be timed or held in place when taking the cams out. Putting them back in - different story.
With those cams all you need is an impact gun and 19mm socket to remove the bolt in the end. The rest is common sense and keep all the left side parts and shims seperate from the right side parts so they don't get mixed up. |
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I'd like to recommend a proper lift pad and something stable under that jack stand.
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
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hey
Thanks for the advice guys im trying my best with not alot of tools which i need money to buy sigh....
ok cool well i just got some money to order parts but before i order i want to read that waynes book and disassemble the rest of the engine so i can have a look and you guys can have a look too to see what would need replacing and what wouldnt as i want to keep the cost low, well its 3 30 am here in hk so and ordering parts will take like 2 weeks to arrive so i have plenty of time really.... i also want to try and do something right and be proud of it im scared i might do something rong break the car or even not get it started when the engines back in :s anyway as i disassemble it il keep you all posted |
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Location: Central Washington State
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Andy my man, I hope the intercooler was installed in place when you started her up (hoping your picture with the engine still in the car was after you started it with the IC in place). Without the IC, there would be no way to control metered fuel into the engine. It probably wouldn't start at all if that were the case, and if so run very poorly (extremely lean).
Personally, I would have got it running and ran it for awhile at least until warm. For as long as it's been sitting, a person could expect smoke. Not necessarily complete catastrophic engine failure. But, now that you're where your are, prepare to spend some bucks as you tear it apart to find what may or may not be wrong with it. For sure, read up with Waynes' book to start with. Educate yourself before going too much further would be my sage advice. We're hear to help along the way, so feel free to ask!
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, B&B intercooler, stock 3LDZ. |
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re:carryon
ok guys removed the chain housing and heads with the cam towers i tried to remove the cam towers first but its like its glued on its like the valve springs get in the way anyway got few more pics and questions
in this picture below you think its leaking oil from piston rings i aso noticed the headbolts werent really as tight as i thought they would of been ![]() i also notice a repair from before not happy how am i suppose to separate the crankcase or do i just leave it.. i want to fix the problem as cheap as posiible would i getaway without taking the crank out and just replacing the piston rings the cams look clean no major wear and on the piston is it suppose to have that mark?> ![]() ![]()
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Brando
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Horrable photos with bad light and grainy. Looks like a leak repair at the no 8 nose bearing with some epoxy but I can't see well enough. Get a good camera and some light if you really want some help. Not trying to be rude, just to the point.
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Turbo powa! 1977 911s. it's cool |
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Clean the lense on your iPhone 4s so there isn't so much flare around highlights and add some light so the auto iso doesn't go up to ASA 640 on dark shots making them really grainy. They can take much better pictures.
The exif data in the pictures tells what camera and settings were used. Anyway, everything looks like a typical 911 motor that has been repaired on the cheap and will continue that way from what you've said. The cam towers are sealed to the top of the heads with glue like sealent and there is a nut on a stud you may have missed. If the nuts are all off a little careful prying will get the heads off it If the epoxy someone put around the nose bearing isn't leaking oil you may as well leave it unless you know how to redo it as is or split the case... The mark on the piston should not be there but it doesn't look bad enough to worry about on your budget. It's from an over rev when the piston came up and hit the exhaust valve before it was closed all the way. The exhaust valve is likely bent and it could be bent less than you can visually see spinning it in a hand drill chuck so you will probably have to replace it. New ones are expensive and inexpensive serviceable used ones are around but check for valve stem wear with a micrometer. It's hard to suggest things when you just want to get it back together as cheap as possible with slightly worn used parts and no experience doing this before. |
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You should never place the jackstand in that position. The rocker panel is not structural. The black plastic square that you see there is a cap - it comes out and a special adapter plate gets inserted there. Then the hydraulic jack lifts the car on the end of the adapter plate. This plate is for the hydraulic jack pad only, not a jackstand!
I imagine you can get an adapter plate from our host - it's a 914 and 911 (up to 89) part. Always put the jackstand under the torsion bar carrier. The way it is pictured is extremely dangerous. Never, never, never get under the car with the jackstand as shown in your picture. NEVER! As for the car, in 1989 all 930's came with a five speed (all other years they had a four-speed). The G50 is the name of the gearbox, it is the five speed developed for the Carrera 3.2 model that debuted in the mid eighties. I believe Porsche reworked it slightly for the 930 application. But please, once again, be sure to always put the jackstand under a torsion bar carrier. It is a major structural point. It's cylindrical in shape. Someone on here probably has a picture. Take care! Last edited by FrenchToast; 09-15-2012 at 10:42 AM.. |
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thanks guys lol yes i did have intercooler in when starting...
erm i started a new thread guys didnt think newbie was suitable its under 1989 930 what to replace |
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You really should be reading Waynes book - as already suggested - before you tear any more down. You may think it is simple to unbolt stuff - but there is an order to this - for reassembly- and so you don't break anything. For instance all the cylinder heads should be marked to go back where they came from. If you pull the pistons, they all go back in the cylinder you took them from, when you pull the cams there are shims - you should note where and how many - each side will be different. Otherwise you run the risk of having real problems during re assembly. Splitting the case is about double the work and requires real care in reassembly. Only do it if you have good reason. But before you go any further, read Waynes book. This will, if nothing else answer many of the Qs you are asking now, and provide valuable information for reassembly. The reassembly requires a lot of attention to detail. If you don't want to be in there again in a few weeks fixing up mistakes.
This is not really the engine to start on with minimal tools and $s. Good luck - but at least gve yourself the best chance of success - by reading the book first. Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-) |
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