Correct. You have no Lambda controls in your '82.

As Dave stated the idle mixture screw should be adjusted only after the fuel pressure has been verified as in spec. I assume sense you are having no cold start issues that your cold presure is in spec.
The idle mixture screw only adjusts the CO at idle when the engine is fully warm. Sense you are seeing an oscillating idle when warm it is logical that this might be the issue.

Once you get a feel for how all this works and some CO and fuel presure data gathering experience you can adjust the idle mixture by ear. On my engine I turn it rich until it begins to oscillate and then back it off a tick. That gets me real close to 3% CO. All engine are a little different, you will find where that "sweet spot" is in yours as well.

Well, this is all just bumming me out. I just got back from another test drive and this is a very intermittant problem.

I drove the car around until the oil temp got up to 180 - 185. The car ran perfect. With the motor fully hot, idle was smooth as could be, 800 rpm at every stop, it would not vary or faulter. Finally after about 1/2 hour of stop and go driving at operating temp, I pulled up to a stop sign and the idle dropped to 200 rpm, then up to 1,200 rpm ( up and down within a few seconds ) then it died. It did it once more as I pulled in my drive. I sat in front of the garage and it was at a smooth 800 rpm. I let it idle for about 5 minutes blipping the throttle now and then.... but it remained a perfect idle.


If this was a mixture problem, I am wondering why it would run perfect 90% of the time? Seems to me there is some valve or regulator sticking or intermittantly failing on me rather than a constant such as a bad mixture... don't you think?
You guys are the experts, but I am trying to logically think this out from my past experience.

Here are some other details;

I did pull a few plugs and they are dark, but not sooty... so yes it is on the rich side at idle.

Whenever I blip the throttle, there is a clicking sound from the motor, but I am not sure where it's coming from?

The car quietly pops and burbles trailing throttle (while shifting gears)... is that normal?

For whatever it's worth, I tried about 50 times to get the car to die by pushing the clutch in and coasting while under way, but it always settled down to a nice 800 rpm idle. It only seems to die when I am stopping or turning.

At any rate, thanks for your suggestions, I am learning a lot about the fuel system so it's all good. :) ... intermittant problems are the hardest to figure out sometimes.

Maxx,
The best guy on the board to talk to about this is John Walker. Shoot him a PM and get his opinion. He's never steered me wrong.

The clicking sound is likely your BOV. The BOV is stock correct?

Idle oscillation is typically reproduceable under similar environmental conditions. What you are describing is a bit radical. If the mixture is close enough to correct that it idles smooth 90% of the time you should be able to calm it the other 10% by braking with the clutch out until the engine is pulled down to <1500rpm. From what you are describing I'll bet that won't work, so something else is at play.

I'm not sure if the BOV is stock or not.

I'm going to do some more troubleshooting and see if I can get some kind of pattern when the idle goes unstable, then report back.

I'll check out the WUR mod as well and see what that's all about.

Thanks.

Gotta be a vacuum leak.....

Hello!

First of all, if your BOV is clunking, replace it's gaskets.
Here is how to do it:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=71370

It will do wonders for idle quality. Second, while re-installing everything back, triple check all hoses for leakage and tighten. Third, make sure your metering plate is centered and not binding.

If that doesn't help, check CIS pressures. If they are allright, do a run with WBO2.

Good step by step! Thanks.