Is the volume liveable for the street and is the power notable on seat of pants or dyno as single mod only ?



Thanks Jerry S

how much hp will you gain from removing the muffler alone and installing a zork tube?
Anyone ever measure this on a dyno?

Has been measured at 15hp.

Sound is in the ear of the beholder. It is too loud for me in the neighborhood but I have sold many to folks who think differently.
The power increase is noticable to the butt dyno. What you also notice is a more free revving engine and that wonderful turbo whizz. The actual power increase is dependant upon your present mods and the muffler you are using. The increase is not so much if you already have a free flowing muffler with a straight through design and a large ID.

I actually have single out 3" Powehaus muffler with Euro exchangers and K-27



Thanks,

Jerry S

I have Euro exchangers and a K27 also. With the stock Euro muffler I notice a big change when going to the zork. There is very little difference however between the zork and my driver's side exit muffler.

I don't believe I've seen a Powerhaus muffler (unless I didn't know what I was looking at) , do you have a picture?

What he said^^^

I have a zork that I dabble with. I love the sound, but there are too many occasions where I just want to be anonymous...it's hard to do when the drivers around you can feel the sound of this little pipe hitting them in the chest as you're stopped at a traffic light! I drive mine daily and the novelty of an open pipe wears off after about two weeks...then the muffler goes back on!

I was running a straight pipe (like Zork but routed to the passenger side) for the last year. I'm now running a "straight thru" muffler (no baffle) that a local shop designed/built for me.

Sound-wise, there is a big (huge) difference - probably in the tune of 6db though as RarlyL8 said, its in the ear of the beholder. The muffler takes away some of the higher pitch (freq that we can hear) hence it will feel subjectively much more quiet than measured.

Power-wise, I had a cracked header (hence the start of this thread :( ) so did not do a back-to-back comparison yet. But with the new header and the muffler, on track, I still do not feel that the engine was any more restrictive or response was slower with the muffler.

The shop who did my muffler said that they once designed a straight pipe for a E46 M3 then a muffler. The hp difference on a dyno was 7. It may not have anything to do with our scenario but at least 1 data point.

A zork really is loud.

I love mine, but I live in the country. People mistake my car for a truck or something when they hear the sound at steady speeds, it is really a thick sound when you dump 6 cylinders into a foot of straight pipe.

The closer to population centers I drive, the more nervous I get.

A city would be a different story. It is loud like a straight Harley that rattles your ears. You would not get on the throttle in a city for fear of cops, and even then it still backfires.

I feel like it helps performance and keeps moving heat out of my engine. You can hear the turbo whirling all the time. And the sound is awesome if you want the most badass Porsche sound possible. It weighs two pounds.

Good descriptions.

I always hear the "bzwizzzhhhh' of the turbo, along with a ton of pops and crackles.
An upshift or an out of gear shift is a necessity around the police.......technically as Zork owners, we have no muffler.
Easy ticket writeup!

I enjoy the absolute most raw aspects of a Porsche -
tons of appropraitely negative camber with 275/315 track tires, polybronze bushings, custom valved shocks, 23/33 sways with 150 lb coils, track seats -- all items not necessary for speed are for the most part removed.

If a hard a$s raw experience is what you are after, then a Zork should be on your short list

Here are photos:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1189399316.jpg

And more


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1189399464.jpg

And more yet

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1189399632.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1189399686.jpg

Thanks for the photo.
Looks like the basic exterior is stockish in appearance. How does it sound?

When I went from short pipes to (B&B's) to equal length customs. The equals have very tight radius bends too. I noticed on the dyno that power came in later - about 200 rpm later. However, top end power (about the last 1200 rpm) more than made up for the 200 rpm delayed spool. The equals added a bit more than 20hp on top and more importantly, about 20 ft lbs of torque around 5500.

If you have a relatively stock motor with CIS, and you do mostly street driving and occasional DE's, the equal length pipes are not for you. If you DE frequently or race the car, and the motor has good mods (at least a cam), then consider the equal length pipe.

My equal length pipes do not have heat, but I live in GA and heat is not important - except for the occasional need for defrosting. However, when I had the engine oil cooler still on my engine, I made a box to collect the heat here and duct it to the heating system. Worked OK. Just an idea....

I gained about this too. But I could not handle the resonance in the car, or the noise in my neighborhood. I changed to a straight-though muffler (Magnaflow), eliminated the resonance and can now drive the car anywhere without shouting HERE I AM through the open pipe. The best part is that there is no difference in performance.

Sound is much more throaty and louder than stock.

Jerry S

I believe Albert @ GSF is selling headers with heat for $970.

W/O heat for $700.


From his site: http://www.goingsuperfast.com/Porsche-911-Turbo.html


"Header with heater Box. can be use on Porsche 911 turbo (1977 - 1994 ),
911Carrera (1984 - 1989 ) 964 (1989 - 1994 ) 993 (1995 - 1998 ).

With swivel flange it can be fit to all cars above, 304 stainless steel, 6 38mm primary tubes, 50
mm merge tubes,1.5 mm thick.

Kit includes headers, drip tank, AN-8 oil line, adapter to factory hard turbo oil return line, large
oil line from crank case to thermal stat."


http://www.goingsuperfast.com/images...-heater-10.JPG

Those are nice looking units and a good value as a kit but I don't see how you could get much heat out of those exchangers. There is not much surface area there. The GHLs that I have experience with have a similar design and do not produce any useful heat.
304 is inadequate for the application in my opinion. You need a larger margin of heat tolerance given the many different engine setups and uses these cars see.
I'm all about saving money but these potential issues need to be considered.