split my 930 case
 

Greetings,

Last night I split my 930 case, finding #5 connecting rod had spun its bearing. :eek: Its a crying shame as the motor was recently rebuilt by the PO and has all new bearings, seals, valve and head work and new pistons and the like. In all fairness, I did buy the car this way and am pleasantly surprised to find all the new parts including a new clutch, disk and machined flywheel with about 2k miles on the machine work. Now the fun begins, turning the garage workspace into a clean room as I prepare for rebuild.

Anyway, I'm in the hunt for a pair of connecting rods ( 930. 103.121.2R ), possibly a crank, the pickup tube off the oil pump for starters. Any takers.

Cheers
Greg

BTDT. Bummer. Least you knew when you bought it and didn't have the $$$$ noises just appear...

Let me guess - factory rod bolts? Don't do that. ARP or Raceware are a good investment - not to mention re-usable.

3.3 and 3.2 rods are identical (as are the cranks). The rods you use should all be in the same weight group.

I should have 11 3.3 rods (the remains of the original set and a complete set I bought from someone who shipped them surface from the US - they arrived after the motor was re-assembled and I haven't even opened the box yet).

I found it cheaper to buy a good std/std 3.2 crank (which I had magnafluxed and polished) than to spring for grinding & re-hardening my old crank and then pay the premium for an undersize bearing set (surprisingly expensive, IIRC).

While 3.3 and 3.2 cranks are identical, the intermediate shaft is apparently matched to the crank in the factory and ideally you should treat them as a set like a CW&P, and be aware that the 3.2 distributor drive gears turn in the wrong direction for a 930....

Spuggy, the crazy thing is the bolts are ARP. The motor only had about 2k on the rebuild by the PO it before it spun. My guess is either, sloppy build or low oil, leaning toward sloppy build. When I was removing the flywheel, three of the bold were quite loose..scarry.

The crank is at the machine shop being evaluated, depending on its condition, either source a used one or send it out to a crankshaft shop supertec reccommended in cali

As for your rods, let me know if you would like to part with the pair or the entire set with a PM. That would help greatly.

Cheers
Greg

I would suggest using the stretch method of tightening down the ARP bolts rather than Torque method. I used both, and the torque method did not tighten them down enough.

I agree - use the stretch method for the installation of the ARP rod bolts. In fact, even though I did all the assembly work on my engine, I had my machinist, Neil Harvey (Performance Developments) assemble the crank/rods for me because I didn't want to purchase a stretch gauge. In addition, as was pointed out by spuggy, the rods are in weight groups. In my instance, I had a rod with a slight bend in it (that didn't sound right) and it took a few weeks for Neil to track down a rod that would match...he had already reconditioned the other 5.

you could probably send out the crank and have it re-conditioned as well. They are getting very hard to find, and the prices keep going up. EBS racing in Reno took care of repairing, polishing, and balancing the crank.

I was told though, that if I was only going to be racing this car, then this might not be the best idea.

Sandman, having the machine shop install the rods makes sense. That way I can take one variable out of the rebuild.

Still in the hunt for the oil pump pick up tube, the part with the mesh. Surprisely, the oil pump internals and rotors looks great. I still will disassemble the pump and clean like Felix Unger. Any suggestions on where to send out the engine oil cooler cleaning?

Thanks
Greg

I think these people are known to do good work...no experience myself:

http://www.oilcoolers.com/

I sent oil cooler to EBS Racing as well. They cleaned, tested, and vacuum bagged it. I believe the cost was in the $80-85 range.

It might be a misshap during assembly. One oil gallery was probably clodged which ground the bearing. This stuff happends.

Dissasseble, check what is reusable and clean everything torroughly. Blow trough every orifice with compressed air.

About oil cooler (this is my personal opinion): Toss is. Buy a new one. If nothing else than for peace of mind.

+1 on new oil cooler, you dont know what kind of grindings got sucked up after she was knockin.

You wouldn't trust the "F.A.A. approved Ultra Sonic decontamination process" ?

Most people would - unless you're irrationally hyper-anal. It still cracks me up to watch people build a $40k race motor to drive around town. Oh well....

Another option is to eliminate the engine oil cooler completely if you have adequate cooling elsewhere.

What did you do Don with your coolers when you rebuilt?

Nothing. There was no reason to suspect metal in the engine. A piece of the piston vaporized and went through the exhaust. And no, nothing happened to the turbo either.

So, Don...are you hinting at something here??? LOL...HAHAHAHA .. Hey, I will have mine on the track again...someday....

and I have ALOT of money in mine...as you also have in yours... it is really easy to get up there...

Didn't have you in mind, cause you don't have $40k just in your motor. I think you did a good job of buying your parts and doing most of the work yourself. Now if we talk about the car as a whole, then $40k looks like a bargain....