Update:
 

Alright fellows! Here is the latest...
The "hose" in question is hopefully not bulging.
The stock Turbo bracket IS in place.

mdurbahn: I don't know very much about the way the IC works so forgive my if I sound very ignorant; but if I was getting a leak at the connection in question, wouldn't that release pressure (which would cause the surging) and thereby keep the IC from blowing off of the pipe?

NathanUK/anyone: The C2 bypass valve in question... Again my first Porsche Turbo... Where might I find that little gem and I will let you know!

930chef: I would be interested to see what the outcome of your new install is? Did you just increase your boost pressure? what caused your system to work one day and not the next?

Your screw style hose clamps are fine, and will not yeild under boost pressure.

The thread mentioned by william930t has a picture where you can see a large black rubber elbow. At the mid point along this elbow there is a virtical standoff for a valve type device which relveives boost pressure between shifts (called a BOV or Blow Off Valve). I believe what Nathan is thinking is that the instantainious pressure spike seen as you transition from full boost then lift off the throttle (as in shifing gears) may force the intercooler off the inlet pipe allowing the O-ring to squeeze out. Do you have the same rubber elbow with the virtical standoff, with a black plastic device atached to it. The plastic device is missing in this picture:

http://members.rennlist.com/magisterc/install04.jpg

I think I am good on the valve then as well, unless it is not operation properly. If it is in fact from a C2? I haven't the foggiest!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1205734086.jpg

Yes, from a C2 turbo (90s turbo). This is in lieu of a mechanical version which was removed when your new intercooler was installed.

The inside diameter of the union between the your inlet pipe and intercooler is about 2.5" dia. Calculate the area pi x Radius squared. This equals about 4.9 square inches of area. If your car makes stock boost (about .8 bar or 12 psi) then there is about 60lbs of force pushing the intercooler off the inlet pipe. You may as well go and try to lift your intercooler upwards off the inlet pipe and see how much it moves. If the anchor points for your intercooler are really that bad you are probably best off using Jfairmans solution displayed in an earlier post.

I did those same calculations last night! Thought the same thing and went out pulling up on the IC! Didn't seem to move enough to upset the junction... But I did straighten the IC mount at the rear of the car, as well as put a bit more torque on the two other attachment points... I'm going to give her another run tomorrow and see what we have. I'll be in touch!

I will in all likelihood be replacing my 1bar WG spring for a 0.8, as the car will be running on CA gas, so that may well solve the problem.

Thank you so much for your help!
-Sean

The difference in force between 0.8 bar and 1.0 bar is 3psi times area or about 14lbs force.....if you are having a problem from 1.0 bar then changing to 0.8 bar is a bandaid fix to the real issue.
you need to make sure that the intercooler is tie down at 3 distinct points. One near the throttle body, one at the coil mounting bracket and one more at the drivers side corner of the intercooler.....where it used to mount to the factory bypass valve. Without 3 points mounting the cooler could be twisting off location as well as lifting.....it does nto take much movement about 1/2 inch to blow out the o-ring seal areas.
Do yourself a favor and check that all the mounting bolts are tight and carry a spare set of o-rings with you till you figure out what is going on.
I had a hell of a time getting my B&B intercooler to fit properly after switching to a k27S turbo and GSF headers. The headers and k27 turbo put the new turbo outlet in the wrong location relative to the stock OEM k26 turbo and headers which I ran previously. Had to do alot of cutting and fitting to the turbo outlet to re-use the OEM up-pipe and make it all fit. I do not like the idea of cutting the up-pipe and using silcone connectors as this butchers the factory system and introduces another leak path.

To line up the two pipes in your picture, rotate the black pipe to get the correct angle. Also, Imagine Auto (Pelican may sell it as well?) sells a small aluminum adapter that goes between the turbo and the black up pipe so you don't have to use a hose with clamps.

Well... Bracket fabricated and installed...
The shakedown drive taught me a few things:
1- It always takes WAY TOO long to warm up the car when you want want it to get hot!
2- Under repeated 1st-2nd gear pulls we had NO problem with the IC lifting or the up pipe dropping!
3- The help from knowledgeable new friends is indispensable!
Pelicans, thank you all VERY VERY much!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif
Here's to hoping that the issue stays resolved!
-Sean

its the third and fourth gear top end pulls that get it...sustained high boost.

Well, I will have to wait and see about that! My IC wasn't staying on through
1st and 2nd... and I have not had the opportunity to play through 3rd... let alone 4th!
Track day soon, and we'll see if I got it all buttoned up or not!
-Sean

So the problem was the turbo bracket?

Nathan,
The stock turbo backet was in place. I ended up fabricating a bracket similar to JFairman's.
Seems to keep everything buttoned down thus far!

Ah, so a bracket for the IC has helped to keep it located :cool:

i havent taken the i/c to kokeln yet.my seperation at the up-pipe and the i/c was not as severe as yours.i am experiencing some oil seepage where the two join.did you experience anything like that. i also noticed that the original plate/bracket that secures turbo to frame(?) was not re-installed during the original installation, which may be part of my problem. its hard to believe this install was done by a so-called indie porsche mechanic.im running a zork now to reduce weight until i can reconstruct this micky mouse job. anyone know where i can locate this bracket? i'll let you know when put back together, but i know im not getting full boost into the i/c...any oil seepage? 930chef

No oil seepage to speak of...
I have begin to see the humor in a lot of the "installs" on my car as well...
People used to take pride in their work, and do their job right the first time...
AHHHHH those were the days!

Does anyone have a copy of the instructions for installing the whole package?

Lorne M

Kokeln
 

Hello everyone,
I was abroad for a while and only now see the post. First of all, the Kokeln cooler fits without any problems.
You must not cut the pipe- The radiator fits perfectly. He has about 2-3mm clearance to the tailgate. I am trying to upload pictures.

https://ibb.co/82XTdSM
https://ibb.co/hdkzbv5
https://ibb.co/Yfk5VJd
https://ibb.co/7176V5S
https://ibb.co/F3QnqSk
https://ibb.co/fYKmCt3

For my install back in 2011...

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/625464-installing-kokeln-intercooler.html

If you need any additional pictures, send me a pm with your email.

Tim