LM1 Questions, If ya got 'em Post 'em
 

The GHL headers I have bought used has an O2 bung already welded in. However, it was welded in just before the turbo flange. According to LM1 the best place to put in a bung is after the turbo. So I put one (a bung) in a little ways after the turbo on a straight pipe. So is that the ideal place for the O2 sensor or should it be within a certain distance after the turbo. If I put on a dual outlet muffler should I put the bung in before the muffler or after and block the other tail pipe?

Another question: If you only use your LM1 O2 sensor once in a while to check and dial in your AFR do you install and remove the sensor or leave it in place? The reason I ask is because they say it should be powered up when installed and the car running. But if you install and remove it all of the time this is just a recipe for the O2 sensor failing. Also leaving it installed and not powered up can cause it to fail.

Lastly, how AND where did you run your LM1 wires to the passenger compartment?

Bung should be after the turbo, as heat and pressure prior to turbo makes it err. It should be welded slightly upwards, to avoid soaking the tip in condensation.

It should be removed if sensor heater isn't connected as exhaust would clog it otherwise. Distance from turbo is not so critical, anything from 3 inches to just before the exhaust tip works.

on my 87 there was a stock hole right behind the driver's side shock tower mount in the engine compartment. I used that for some wires and I made an identical hole on the opposite side.
I have a tach wire, the o2 sensor wire, boost signal, and fuel press and EGT wires all up to the dash..

I wish I had hard wired my power line to the lm1 on a +12 wire instead of key on wire. There's a second of power when the key is turned and the lm1 starts up, then as the key turns and the engine spins power cuts off then back on again. This may or may not affect the lm1 + sensor, I'm not sure, I've used this sensor for 3+ years, and a permanent install for 18 months or so. Just recently I'm getting error #8, bad sensor (assumed). But this happened right after I removed and replaced with a different muffler from Ben.
My sensor is three or four inches past the turbo and I have a heat sink on it made from a 2" copper collar cut up and flattened out

If I did it again I'd run EVERYTHING straight to the battery and use a master switch. Seems like it would have been easier.

I used this sensor on three different cars at different times, carried it around here and there. They seem pretty stout.
And cheap at amazon $55

Questions for JBrinkley,
Where did you run the wires from the firewall to the dash. Thru the tunnel?
Also, how easy is the LM-1 software to use when studying the data?
One last question, as far as the tach wire how did you hook this up, did you cut into the CD box wiring or does it run off the ditributor or coil? Wanted to know if you needed to run an inductive hookup off one of the plug wires or what.
I am pulling the trigger on ordering one of these kits today and wanted to know these few questions which would help me out.

Thanks,
Fred

through the firewall under the bottom of the rear deck thing and under the rear carpet where the seat bottom would be. I removed these and used a rs carpet set form apbiz.
sitting on top of the tunnel to where the heater levers are. I rest the lm1 on top of the heat console.

the lm1 software is easy to work, they have forums also.

I just use a pick up clamp ran through the firewall with all the other stuff to the rpm converter from innovate, this is also where a splice for my fuel pressure and boost should go so I could graph these along with rpm, I just haven't done it yet. I'm lazy.

pick up clamp is easiest, wire from tach a little more difficult from what i've read.

hope that helps

Hey thanks for the quick response.
I am gonna order it today I think because after my k27S upgrade and GSFheaders I am worried about my A/F ratios, as I never had them checked after this change.
I am heading for a DE weekend at Mid Ohio and don;t want to burn it up or run too lean. I just wish the Innovate kit was not so damn expensive.

Hi,
The LM-1's can be had for a little less on ebay from one of the vendor's there. All "experimenting" or "modding" 930 owners should have one. It's cheap compared to going to a wrench to set your CO every once in a while. It's cheap compared to a holed piston ;-) I would think it would be the ideal way to get the most from the Adjustable WUR's.

The problem with lean conditions is they usually can feel like they run well. So you can't always/usually detect it by how the engine feels. The neat thing about the LM-1 is you can use it on many vehicles and impress all your friends with how tuned in you are.

true, it is spendy.
I never had the best of luck with generic serial to USB cables either, I had to order theirs before it was trouble free.
that and an extra long cable and an analog remote gauge for the dash and I think It was around 7 or 8 bills, exhaust clamp to before I made it permanent.

Thanks guys! I think I have an idea how I'm going to do this. It will be installed when I want to use it and I'll remove it when I'm done and plug it. I put the bung in a straight pipe after the turbo.

Bill,

That's why I did. After all the bolt on mods.. I spent the dough and bought an LM-1 as I wanted to make sure my AFR's were in the right place. I bought the whole kit and caboodle (sp?) with teh exhaust clamp, inductive clamp and RPM device too. I wanted to use it as a tool to set the car right and then be done with it.

I didn't want the wires bouncing outside the car on the paint, so I put them though the large hole (as described by jbrinkley). The wires for me consisted of only the O2 sensor wire. I grabbed the RPM signal from behind the dashboard right at the tach.. If you want some pictures of the hole in question, I may be able to take some and get them to you. I zip tied the wire around the wheel well so it wouldn't move around too much.

I had it installed in the car for a few weeks so I can check what the AFR's were at different weather conditions. IT was fun actually. It gave me more reasons to go for a boot and stretch her legs...a lot!

How far are you from the border? maybe I'll take a trip to meet you at some point!

I'm only a couple of hours away from Windsor. If you drive down let me know and I'll come down and meet up with you. That would be fun!

just bought an LM1 setup today from Titan Motorsports (Innovate's preferred vendor). I have the feeling that the cost of the LM1 setup is about to go down as the guy at Titan informed me that Innovate is about to come out with the LM2- which is supposed to have more capabilities. If you can wait a month or so it may be worth it if you're struggling with the current prices.

I'm planning on purchasing a serial to usb convertor and PC emulator software for my mac so I can view datalogs. I haven't seen any postings related to this issue and "pc emulator LM1 mac", etc searches on this post doesn't give me anything. Was wondering if anyone out there is using a mac and the Innovate data logging software? If so can you let me know what issues/glitches you may have- and what brand of software you are using?

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