I'm pretty sure you can take the intake system off , down to the heads, without having to touch the fuel head stuff.
So, unless there is a particular reason to take it off, I would leave it.
But I've had mine and the intake box off several times without lowering the motor.
Alan

I must have mis read your post...sorry.. I was also under the impression that the intake could come off with all of the CIS stuff still attached as well...

I tell a lie. I have just looked at mine. You have to remove the fuel head/airbox bit to get the manifold off. You can't leave the box there.
There is no reason to try and leave it attached to the manifold. When you come to torque the spacers/manifold down, you have to do it with airbox off - it covers the last stud on #3 cyl.
You can spanner it with airbox in place - but you can't torque it. So you really need to separate the airbox from the manifold.
I have a closed fist of gap between the top of my fuel head and the top tray (without any soundproofing in).
From memory when you take the fuel head and box off together you have to jiggle it foward on a bit of an angle.
Alternatively, there are only 3 central screws in the middle of the fuel head holding it in place. You will just need to prise it up and off with a screw driver - if the O ring seal is still tight.
Alan

Alan
 

Do you happen to have any pictures of this removal or what I need to remove to separate. I'm guessing I will need to remove more fuel lines since I would be separating from the throttle body which is staying on the intake... correct?

Thanks,
Bryan

Hi Bryan:
You're having too much fun.
There are 4-fuel lines to disconnect from the fuel head. The main in/out and the two that go to the WUR. May be easier to disconnect the lines from the WUR than the fuel head. Of course, remove the fuel lines going to the injectors.
Fuel head held to air box with 3-flat head screws counter sunk into head. Fuel head sealed to air box with an O-ring. Pry fuel head off air box carefully.
Air box is attached to manifold with three 13mm nuts. Pull it.
And yes, the throttle body stays on the manifold. Lots of vac and AAR hoses to pull before manifold can be pulled. You'll find em when they won't let the manifold come up.
I'd get you some pix today but there's not enough room to get the camera where it needs to go to get the pix.
Hope the new spacers from Turbokraft do the trick.
Chris

Bryan,
Here are a couple of "before" pics when I did my 930 engine build. The photos show the mounting location of the distributor/air box. They are numbered 1, 2 and 3. The photo also shows the control pressure fuel lines going to the WUR. If I remember correctly, the numbered locations will allow oyu to remove the control unit from the engine. There may be some additional lines, such as the fuel distribution lines, but you get the general idea.
NOTE: The Pelican forum BBS rescaled the photos. I hope you can see the red boxes with numbers. If not, just save the images to your desktop and scale up with your viewer. If not, PM me and I will email them to you.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227633951.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227633975.jpg

Crhris and Dave
 

Thanks for the heads up. I will work on this evening. I will not be separating the fuel dist. from the air-box, but rather just disconnecting the 3 13mm nuts and the appropriate lines. I don't want to get into trouble with the dist.

I can see the pictures fine. Thanks for posting them.

Bryan

There is no problem in removing the fuel head - you wont get into any bother if that works out the better option.
As you may have worked out - there are 3 nuts holding the box/fuel head on. One is at the RH end of the box - back in a bit from the WUR, one is at the LH front corner - approx, and the tricky one is at the LH rear corner. I find a 3/8 extension fits nicely down the back with the ratchet clearing the box - assuming the ext length is OK.
I disconnect all the lines at the fuel head - cyls 124&5 at the union, cyls 3 &6 remove the banjo bolt. This gives you enough room to get to the WUR fuel line union.
Yes - there are the fittings on the front of the head too. Then, your head is clear to lift off if you need to, or take out complete with the box if you can get enough room. I have done both ways. On the LHS of the manifold, you have a few hoses to unhook. The throttle body stays intact - but you need to disconnect it at the ball clip joint.
Other than that nothing too tricky. You will have a couple of elec plugs to disconnect in back - the air plate safety switch - up between fuel head and air plate, and the CSV in behind the manifold. You can probably get these as you remove the box.
It is a pretty straight foward job.
Torque the new spacers down. 18 ft lb. THEN refit the box/fuel head.
If you split the fuel head out, you may find the O ring already damaged. I re-chamfered the entry into the box for mine - I was forever slicing them up when refitting. This makes a nice new air leak. It is a standard O ring (36 x 2 mm from memory - but I use a 35 x2 - snugger fit, easier mounting)- so I buy them in a pack of 2 or 3 at a time, in case I slice one when refitting. Use some WD 40 spray type lube on it when refitting, and wiggle it into place, or screw down in rotate fashion - screw 1 , couple turns, screw 2 couple turns etc, to seat it down without pinching O ring.
Alan

Alan, We use Vasoline ( petrolum jelly) on aircraft o rings...seems to work better than WD-40...just FYI

Alan L
 

Alan Said: "If you split the fuel head out, you may find the O ring already damaged. I re-chamfered the entry into the box for mine - I was forever slicing them up when refitting. This makes a nice new air leak. It is a standard O ring (36 x 2 mm from memory - but I use a 35 x2 - snugger fit, easier mounting)- so I buy them in a pack of 2 or 3 at a time, in case I slice one when refitting."


What is the O-ring that you are referring to when splitting the fuel head? Do you have a pic or two? I cant seem to visualize what that part is?

Bryan

I dont have a pic for you. Have one of the internals, but not externals.
If you remove the head you have to remove 3 c/sunk screws in the top. These locate the head to the box. The head will not come apart, but you can now remove it from the box. It locates tightly (no air leaks) into a machined recess in the box. It is snug on an O ring in the lower body of the head.
When you let all the hoses/lines off, and the screws, you can at least wriggle and partially rotate it. It is moving on the O ring.
When I first pulled mine off, the O ring had chunks cut out of it - from previous insertion.
I then had same trouble re-inserting - but was looking for the problem - rather than just screwing it back up. Took several goes to get it in without cutting O ring.
So, rechamfered edge, and went to 1 mm Dia smaller O ring, and lube. To be sure it is in without tearing O ring.
Alan

Well, there all off.
 

I ended up removing the cis air-box/distributor with the fuel lines still in place as one unit. I then pulled off the intake and the phenolic spacers next. I had new injectors installed. What is a good way to tell if they are working correctly? Can I spray some starter fluid down them to check how the spread of the stream looks?

Also, my blocks looks ok, but they looked like they were leaking from the bottom seal at least at cylinders #2 & 3. Also, my intake valves have black residue (carbon I'm guessing) all over the tops. Some are worse than others. The car has 97k on the clock, but the leak-down (about 7-8 months ago, 1,000 miles) came back with all low numbers. I am thinking I should button everything back up and see how the beast runs. I can always drop the motor and take this stuff back off for a top-end if needed.

Thoughts on the pics below? The last pic shows #6 and the intake valve with carbon build up.

Bryan


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227659643.jpg

Cylinders #1-3

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227659670.jpg

Cylinders #4-6

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227659692.jpg

Cylinder #6, this is the only photo that shows the intake valve a little. Look for the black deposits on the valve.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1227659804.jpg

Very hard to see any carbon build up on the valve.
Without wanting to labour the point, if you had done leak test before pulling down , you would know if these bits were leaking, and where to concentrate on. Suggest you still do leak test after back together. I went thru this process, and still ended up with a significant leak at the spacer - take note of what I mentioned before about orientation of gasket on topside of spacer.
If you have C on backside of inlets, could be valve guides getting bit worn.
Yes, it seems guys spray brake cleaner in the injectors to test. Seems to work. You stick the little tube neatly into injector. Or you can test at reassembly - when fuel head back in, hooked up. Before you put intercooler etc back on and have plenty of room to work. Unscrew injectors , hook into fuel lines and depress airplate with key on and watch spray patterns (catch surplus fuel in jars). The latter would be my preference - you are testing under same conds as they would work in - viscosities, pressures etc. But if new should be no issues.
Alan

Wow you really did some work Bryan, I'll swing by over the holiday break if you need some extra eyes/hands.

BTW that is one dirty engine :D

Thanks
 

Sounds good Rod. Give me a shout tomorrow. I will have some time in the late afternoon.

Bryan

Updates
 

Well, everything is off and I will be pulling my motor tomorrow to do a valve adjust along with some basic maintenance. Also, it will be much easier to put the intake and CIS system back on after I receive the injector blocks.

My Question's,

The crap in these photo's is from the underside of my fuel distributor in the air-box. I wiped it with a white paper towl so you could see the color of the residue. I also took another photo of inside then air-box (under the fuel dist.) from where the 90 degree rubber elbow normally sits. You can see the residue in the center. What does the bottom of that look like if I were to take it off?

What is this and should I do anything about it? How do I clean this area without taking off the fuel distributor?

Thanks,
Bryan

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228011918.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228011944.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228011962.jpg

It's oil residue from the oil breather tube that goes from the oil tank to the air intake. Do you have the factory oil separator canister in the engine bay? A lot of people have removed these.....why, I don't know. It does serve a useful purpose.
Doesn't look like there was too much in the plenum though.

Werk-i
 

Yes, I do have the factory oil separator in the car and it's working properly. This just looked like residue from bad gas over the years. I wonder what the inside of my fuel dist. looks like???

Also, if you're referring to the oil breather tube that comes off the turbo drip tank, mine is gone since I added an aftermarket IC and K27s. Obviously this could have been there for the last 2 years for all I know so I'm guessing its nothing new.

Thanks for the help,

Bryan

Your fuel head will be clean. It does not get exposed to hot blow-by and crankcase fumes. It just gets washed constantly in clean fuel - removing any residue that wants to stick. Grit and water are the main issues with the head.
Alan

Updates with questions
 

Well, I sent out my fuel distributor today to be rebuilt. I have included a couple of pictures below. I need to know how to clean this and is it OK at this point just to dump mineral spirits all over it?

I wouldn't think it would hurt anything but figured I would ask.

Also, can I clean the inside of the intake with mineral spirits as well. It won't hurt the throttle body area will it?

Thanks,
Bryan

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228259880.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1228259903.jpg