from your experience do I need a adjustable WUR?
 

MY 89 WILL ONLY HAVE A ANDIAL I/c A K27 7200 TURBO AND 1 BAR SPRING.from your experience will I need a adjustable WUR or can I only adjust the fuel head?

over here in Canada I can only find 91 octane and rarely 94 . should I use 91 on the dyno to be on the safe side?


Thanks

You won't know until you record the AFR's on your current setup.
An adjustable WUR is never a bad idea though even if your AFR's are acceptable. You can always dial them in better.
91 octane should be plenty if the timing and AFR's are correct.

+1

Especially if you're planning on 1.0 bar boost. You may find you need just a touch more fuel in the upper boost end, but then maybe not. Another benefit of the adjustable WUR...at least the one that Mr. Leask builds...is that you can have him replace the inner diaphram with a more stout one, since the stock one can be prone to early failure when boosting beyond .8 bar - or so common wisdom has told us.

Not to mention the great mpg you can get with a digital WUR

I don't know about "great mpg" but it does allow you to dial in your AFR's much better. I did see some improvement in gas consumption, but certainly not what I would call great. The AFR's are dead on.

They key Chuck is your AFR's at cruise and no boost.. what kind of AFR's are you running there?
I'm just dailing in mine now but should be getting 22-24 MPG at around 70

You also get rid of the rich mid range caused by your K27 spooling earlier than your old 3LDZ turbo, you can manually raise the boost enrichment theshold to only enrich above 0.55bar or so, if you're still rich in the middle you'll need the RPM solenoid that Brian sells with the adjustable WUR.
Getting rid of the rich mid range which is inherant with a stock WUR being used with a modern turbo will certainly help with MPG. Add that to being able to add fuel up top for the extra boost you're running, dial in your warm up fuel and iron out your AFR's at cruise, and the adjustable WUR becomes a complete no brainer.

Zig: I run 14.7 once the car warms up at idle....and 14.6-.7 at cruising speeds...usually 3K rpm and 80 mph. That's about as close to Stoich as you can get...and I'm reading these figures on the fly with the LM-1. At WOT, I'm seeing mid 12's with some fluctuations.

I'm running Leaske's adjustable WUR and the solenoid.

I'm 14.2-14.4 at no-boost cruise, intentionally just a tad richer than Stoich 'cause she likes to run there better. Full boost shows high 11's low 12's with boost enrichment delayed until 4600 rpms.

I have steady cruise warm control pressure turned up pretty high on my BL adjustable WUR to compensate for a high flow modified fuel head.
Also have boost control pressure and threshold settings set as high as it will go and the boost signal line digital rpm switch currently set at 5000rpm.

Mines set this way because I also have an IA modified fuel head that flows around 15-20% more fuel so I have the adjustable WUR and rpm switch to trim down the steady cruise and midrange boost afr's so they aren't too rich.

Before my wideband AFR gauge controller went totally haywire and beserk I was seeing 14.5-15:1 steady cruise AFR's in the 2000-3000rpm range, and I have the idle CO adjustment afr set around 14:1 because the idle is alot smoother and stronger with 964 cams at 14:1 than if you lean it to 14.5-14.7 at idle.

With the modified IA fuel head the lambda system pulse valve is removed and the the lambda port is plugged and a shorter banjo bolt installed at the return side where it was tandem with the WUR fuel return line.

By pure luck I haven't had to mess with the WUR settings as pre-set by Brian...he got it pretty close right from the start. But then I still have stock cams and stock fuel head. AFR at idle is 14.7, drops to 14.2-14.4 at cruise. Interesting that with the IA modified fuel head you're able to do away completely with the lambda freq. valve (will have to go back and re-read the recent posts on this subject).