A few pictures from my the removal of intercooler and ICV

Intercooler Outlet

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319502570.jpg

T-Body with part number

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319502611.jpg


ECU Idle settings

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319502747.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319502761.jpg

I did this test and with no voltage you can blow through valve ...fairly easily...with voltage (9volt) there is no resistance to blowing.

Yes, you can start the engine without intercooler, ( you need to plug the hole for idle control valve first )
put an air filter where connect to outllet of intercooler. After you start the engine without intercooler rev your engine. At this time try to set your enigne RPM to 800. There is adjustment screw on throttle body.
If engine runs smoothly your problem is idle control valve.....I don't think is idle control valve.

Have you check your crank position sensor? one time after I wash my car water got into connector I cannot rev the engine up over 2000 rpm.

Next what you have to do is ECU test function for fuel injectors and coil pack, take out fuse for fuel pump make sure fuel pump is not running. disconnect all 6 fuel injectors connectors,
DTA P-8 pro software on, go to Display and test function > test injectors and coils.
To be on the safe side you can disconnect spark plug wires...
If coil packs fire okay, test your fuel injectors.

You may have a broken wire in your fuel injector connector, or water in your crank position sensor. that is how your engine sound like to me.

Was there any movement of the vanes?

Not designed as I originally thought. The "vanes" are gears so the ICV is an open or closed passage. Pictures show that mine is not fully closing.

What I thought was blower vanes

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319568146.jpg

Gate in ICV not fully closing


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319568212.jpg

This forum may also be helpful.

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Not test driven yet but issues seems resolved with a cleaning of the ICV. Carburetor cleaner sprayed into the ICV cleaned the unit, a lot of carbon washed out. Car would not start without the ICV connected but once it was reconnected the car started right up and then had a smooth idle, was idling at 1200 RPM but that is where it idled when I purchased it.

I still need to reconnect intercooler and then test drive but I have my fingers crossed that problem fixed. I'll work on bringing idle down to 800-900 rpm after a test drive.

Thanks for that link!!!

Did not know it existed and looks like some interesting reading.

Good deal, those 2-wire valves seem more susceptible to sticking than the 3-wire. I think it has to do with the fact that the return function is mechanical/spring and not electrical so there is less force in one direction.

That's what I think was happening. Carbon was jamming the valve in the open position and thus the poor idle control.

Had a good test drive tonight. Car started and idled fine..went for run and car never stalled and always returned to a controlled idle. Only issue is that car is now idling at 1500 rpm when warm. This is 300-400 rmps higher then when I picked up car.

I'm thinking that the operation of the ICV has been slowly failing for awhile and the PO was compensating with higher rpm at idle. I'd like to get idle down but I'll have to wait until spring.

Our weather forecast has possibility of flurries on weekend so car might be parked for winter.

I'll install a AFR monitor this winter and tinker with the idle after I know I have a working baseline next spring. looking at the PLX unit..it will interface well with my DTA pro8

Thinking that I should just adjust idle now but not sure if I should use the settings in the ECU or the mechanical adjustment screw.

Do The idle speed parameters look like they should be changed..specifically the "Idle speed" setting that is now at 1050 rpm's . Should I reduce this to 800 rpm?

Are there other ECU settings that I should look at before adjusting idle screw?