Inexpensive ($6) Weekend Project - Engine Tin Refurbish - Pics

[slow&rusty]

Hi Guys - While I have my car semi-apart I decided to pull the off the rear engine tin and paint it. Over the years the heat from the muffler beneath it had contributed greatly to the rusty condition. This was something I wanted to do when I first bought the car, so it only took me 7years to do this..laughing, the rust always bugged me.

To get the rear engine tin off, requires some patience and surgical hands, you should remove the A\C compressor and brackets, distributor cap, Intercooler and shift some of the Intercooler piping to get to all the 10mm bolts (I believe there are 7 or 8 in total of which a few bolts actually thread into the engine case). Luckily I had no snapped or seized bolts on removal and copious amounts of anti-seize upon re-instillation.

The engine tin is certainly a flimsy piece of afterthought thing gauge sheet metal and makes me want to spend a Saturday making a new one out of aluminum (now that would be cool!), maybe a project for down the road.

In the mean time a good wire brush and a few coats of high heat Rustoleum paint, and I was good to go again.












I hope you are all having a great weekend!

Yasin

[onboost]

Off topic.. however, is that an SEC in the 5th pic down?

[TT Gasman]

Good job!

[slow&rusty]

Originally Posted by onboost

Off topic.. however, is that an SEC in the 5th pic down?

Yup..it is a 560SEC (1991, last year of the W126 body style).

[JFairman]

The rear tin in mine looked alot like yours when I got it. I spent around 3-4 hours with a die grinder and wire brushes grinding rust out and then brushed ospho phosphoric acid on the pitted rust I couldn't get at.

Sanded the side tins smooth and painted them all with 500 degree plastikote engine enamel. It looked good but alot of the paint burned off both sides of the rear tin above and around the turbo. The slowly burning paint stunk bad for a couple weeks everytime I drove the car.

Now 5 years later the rear tin needs to be done again. Next time I'll use header paint made to supposedly survive up to 2000 degrees. Eastwood sells the good stuff and some body shop supply stores do too.. it's around 20 bucks a can.

[onboost]

Originally Posted by slow&rusty

Yup..it is a 560SEC (1991, last year of the W126 body style).

Nice cars! Mine is a 1990 w/a few AMG goodies on it. Again. sorry for "off topic."

[William930t]

The exhaust heat is destructive in this area, my rear tin looks bad and may need replacement. Also the engine rubber seal is missing in spots (can see through to muffler), got some work to do thanks for the removal tip.

[slow&rusty]

Onboost - Beautiful..beautiful...super rare color..wow! What color interior? Miles..what other upgrades?
My car has alot of miles and lived a hard and neglected life before I purchased it. Hopefully one day it will look like yours.
Yasin

[mussberger]

Mine was so bad it had a giant hole in it. The gasket from the turbo to the header flange had blown out. Replacement piece is very spendy. I used some header paint on it but only time will tell.

[onboost]

Originally Posted by slow&rusty

Onboost - Beautiful..beautiful...super rare color..wow! What color interior? Miles..what other upgrades?
My car has alot of miles and lived a hard and neglected life before I purchased it. Hopefully one day it will look like yours.
Yasin

Thanks Yasin. I looked at a lot of them over the years and most had a lot of miles and neglected maintenance and passed, as I'm really not a Benz guy anyway.

I stumbled upon this one while preparing to head off to the 24hrs of Daytona in 07. Found it on Craig'slist of all places.. told the lady to send me a few more detailed shots.. she was hesitant, thought I was the Nigerian scam! I flew into Tampa instead, caught a cab from airport to bank and she met me.. we drove around, I paid a gas station to put it on the rack for me to check out.. No oxidation on any aluminum underneath, all the cad bolts looked like knew, interior was primo, no accidents, but had a high end re-paint of original color in 05 for failing clear coat. Folder full of service records including the original window sticker & bill of sale. Bought new in AZ, moved to FLA in 98.. the lady who sold it to me was 65 and it was her mothers car from new! How could I say no?

Now at 105k miles, biege int, AMG gauges, wheels, springs, & wheels. Self leveling still in place w/Bilstiens. Has trans mod, and test pipes. I do need to upgrade the stereo.. its bone stock and it sucks.

Cheers

[Ken911]

i had mine powder coated that burned off also. the header paint just peeled off. next time I'm getting it ceramic coated. mine was new in 2006 and already has pin holes rusted in it. Next new one i buy is getting sent straight off for ceramic coating before installation.

[JFairman]

This Hi temp spray paint "SPACE AGE BRIGHT ALUMINUM 2000 DEGREE" may have the best chance of holding up and lasting.
After all rust is removed spray this on the bottom of the tin above the turbo so it would reflect heat away from the tin. It's supposed to hold up to 2000 degrees.
EXHAUST AND MANIFOLD COATING-Hirsch Automotive Products
If the black paint comes up from this link click the drop down menu for the aluminum paint.

For the top side of the tin satin or flat black paint would look better. They make it in black and cheap generic header or barbecue paint should work on the top side of the tin if any rust is removed, it's prepped good and the reflective aluminuim spray hi temp stuff is on the bottom side.
Bill Hirsch Hi-Temp Paints - TP Tools & Equipment

[fredmeister]

I noticed one poster said the rubber engine seal was missing in spots above the turbine housing. I have the same issue with mine and probably you other guys too. Heat from the turbo cooked the rubber seal into cementlike pieces that cracked and fell apart.

Anyone know the proper part number on our hosts catalog to order a replacement?
Only thing I found so far is to order a complete engine seal which runs around the whole engine bay. The rubber over my valve covers along both sides of the engine is like new, so I only need to replace the area above the turbo for about 8 inches or so.

Fred

[JFairman]

You can replace that overpriced seal and it's just going to be cooked by muffler heat, dry out and break apart again.

Another less expensive option that will last forever is glue a section of 1" to 1.5" diameter silicone heater hose along the top of the entire back edge of the engine tin up against the back of the engine compartment to fill in the open space above the muffler.

Silicone heater hose is usually blue and also comes in black. You won't even see it unless you stick your head in there and look down for it.
It will glue in place on to the engine tin lip real well if the tin is clean with a thick bead of name brand high temp silicone gasket sealent made for exhaust gaskets. You'll just need to stuff some things down there wedged between the hose and whatever is in front of it as the glue dries for about an hour or two to hold it straight and in place on the edge of the tin and up against the back of the motor compartment.

Won't be a perfect air seal but neither is the origonal one and it's a cheap fix that works.

[fredmeister]

Originally Posted by JFairman

You can replace that overpriced seal and it's just going to be cooked by muffler heat, dry out and break apart again.

Another less expensive option that will last forever is glue a section of 1" to 1.5" diameter silicone heater hose along the top of the entire back edge of the engine tin up against the back of the engine compartment to fill in the open space above the muffler.

Silicone heater hose is usually blue and also comes in black. You won't even see it unless you stick your head in there and look down for it.
It will glue in place on to the engine tin lip real well if the tin is clean with a thick bead of name brand high temp silicone gasket sealent made for exhaust gaskets. You'll just need to stuff some things down there wedged between the hose and whatever is in front of it as the glue dries for about an hour or two to hold it straight and in place on the edge of the tin and up against the back of the motor compartment.

Won't be a perfect air seal but neither is the origonal one and it's a cheap fix that works.

You da man.
Thats a good idea, thanks for sharing.
-----------This forum is great for getting ideas when others chime in.

Fred

[911nut]

Four years ago I sandblasted my rear tin, turbo bracket and muffler bracket. Painted all with VHT ceramic paint that's good to 1000F. All look like the day that I painted them. I also did my headers with the same paint two years ago and they still look decent, though not as good as the tin & brackets.