Uniball camber plates yes, but which one?

[proffighter]

I decided to change my heavy steel DIY monoball camber plates by some nice aluminum ones. But which ones are the best for my needs? Once installed I don't need to change camber any more.

There are severals on the market, but I think some are just renamed ones.

Weltmeister (Pelican carries), Mode, Turbokraft and FVD seems to be the same:











Tarett and Elephant are equal too:





And finally WEVO. There are one for 914 without strut brace, which should fit to my 930 as I have already a strut brace:
y




Please share your expiriences and opinions with me

[proffighter]

Here is a pic of my present set-up:

[IMR-Merlin]

I voted for Elephant, because that I what I am running.

[TurboKraft]

MODE -- because that's what we sell. :-)

[proffighter]

@Chris:

So you are thinking that MODE are not equal to Weltmeister... ?

@ everybody:

Does someone can or has weighted their plates? According Pelican, the Taretts are 5lbs, Weltmeiser 10lbs. Think this is quite heavy for an aluminum part with a uniball... And is this weight probably including hardware?

I have to weight my stock ones with welded bush and uniball, to get a comparison

BTW: Why are the TK, etc. flat on the tower at one side?

[TurboKraft]

Machined from billet aluminum, the notch is for clearance during installation (2 possible positions/ranges, thus 2 sets of holes).
Don't know the weight.
Difference? I know MODE is over-kill in most everything they specify, so the bearings are top quality.

That said, we've used WEVO on some builds and everything they make is top quality, too.

[SCHNELE]

I have the WEVO with the carbon fiber brace.

[TurboKraft]

Originally Posted by proffighter

Does someone can or has weighted their plates?

Aren't you going to obsessively drill holes in them anyway? ;-)

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by TurboKraft

Aren't you going to obsessively drill holes in them anyway? ;-)

Maybe

So they would be even lighter...

Seriously: NO! I like drilling a lot, but there are a few parts I would not drill at all, just for safety like front crossmember, trailing arms, brake discs,...

The main thinking is always like: How much strength is needed and will happen if it fails.

Furhter I am a lot less afraid to drill steel as it won't fail completly at once, mostly just cracks first. Aluminum is another story (at least the one we use for machining etc. Of course there are some forget parts like wheel centers, that are really tought to break

[proffighter]

After some more research and contact with Pelicanparts I probably will go with Turbokraft. Unfortunatly they will not be available through Pelican, which makes it more expensive as I have to pay tax and shipping twice then (will order some parts from Pelican anyway). So this has to be wait until... I don't know

BTW, the Weltmeister ones are now different from pics and looks like this crappy sh...

[Kraftday]

Roland, all of the black anodized ones have been made by Motorsport Design (MODE) since the early 90s. Automotion-Weltmeister (Performance Products/Ecklers) has history of distributing MODE parts but they don't seem to list the -89 911 strut mounts anymore?

The red ones are Tarett brand and an older photo.

Patrick Motorsports, also in Phoenix is a stocking distributor for genuine MODE parts too. The MODE ones are tops!

[proffighter]

After some thinking and sleepless nights (maybe not caused by the uniballs ) I ordered from TK...

At least they are already black, no need for anodizing

[66cal912]

Does anybody have experience with the Elephant adjustable camber plates which are anodized Red? I bought these, about a year back, but have not had time to install them.



A general concensious question for everybody. How much more road noise / hard input is put into the body / chassis with these solid aluminum mounts. I am concerned with the crap freeways we have here in Socal, that if the car hits a pretty good pot hole or freeway joint, there will be a considerable jolt to the tub, and ensueing noise with these. I have solid rear monoballs, and was surprised how quite those actually are, so was curious about these prior to install.

Any input appreciated on added noise / force into the body using the solid mounts, regardless of manufacture.

Thanks,

Ben

[fredmeister]

I noticed no increase in noise or ride harshness going from stock rubber mounts to the uniballs. I think most of the harshness is thru the control arms/bushings because you dont have a shock absorber/damper in between the car body and the source of road noise in that case.
That being said, I later added elephant solid bushings to the control arms and noticed no increase in noise or harshness either. Just alot more precision.

Did others share my experiences I wonder?
Fred

[Flieger]

I have the uniballs and Rebel Racing bushings on the A-arms and the ride is much, much smoother. But I changed from worn out urethane bushings rather than rubber.

[JohnJL]

The Elephant ones are OK, but I cant get more than 2.7 degrees camber with them without grinding back the tower.