Cole,
Looks cool. Does it raise the total height of the sensor? Cool zork btw.

QR:

Yes it does raise the total heigth of the sensor. The object here is that the heat
sink captures sample in the tip and the O2 reads it without being exposed to the
direct heat of the exhaust. The cast stainless construction also helps protect the
sensor from excessive overheating.

Cole

yours jumps around a lot. it could just be that you are doing too much with the TL and the video camera. i just set mine yesterday. it was a tad advanced, now it looks more like yours.
i did see yours hit the mark a few times. if it is jumping around like that, your dist may be bad.

my AFR's got a little richer across the RPM band after retarding mine a little. i still want to lower my CP about .5bar. it also runs better and sounds better at idle. personally, i like the the cars sound with less advance at idle. it has a more throaty, deep sound.

my vacuum limnes are not right. my advance line goes to the thermo time valve (TTV) on the back of the motor. i understand it is suppose to be the retard line. the retard line is connected to the correct ports though.

QR, what was the outcome of the AFR issue? Did you resolve it?

Well I have got a nice running engine that seems to be good. I was running lean, and my timing was slightly off but not too bad. I added an EGT gauge to watch that and between the two I have a real nice tune. Even so, I'm pretty sure my distributor is not right because my timing is kind of all over the place. I still need to get that looked at but right now it's close. Right now I have some other issues to contend with. I grenaded the 915.

Thanks, but, my condolences for the 915.

Thanks. Looks like I'm going G-50

AEM has a less expensive adapter that may work well for turbo apps.

AEM Tall Bung Manifold

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1364040364.jpg

hey, i am bringing this post back up since you say you still have this problem and i do too.
its exactly the same. i too get that miss around 2500, although mine is a little better because i have changed my CPs.

i also suspect a timing issue. i was looking at your videos. my timing is not like yours. first, my idle is very hi, around 17 BTDC.
your second video was hard to make out, but it did not look right. maybe you could do a better video.

i have the euro fuel head, larger fuel lines and the 009 injectors. no O2 sensor. my CP is 3bar right now. i found an air leak in the rubber coupler from the turbo to the up pipe to the IC.
i have an MSD ignition but it was the same with the bosch.
the valve guide on my WG was very bad, but i only saw about a .1bar richer increase with a new WG.
i am considering sending my dist off to have it checked. i am also considering pulling the motor and pulling the CIS off to check for air leaks.

I've talked to others on the subject of the distributor and they say it's not as likely but if it's suspect it would be obvious with movement side to side and back and fourth.
My system has no airleaks, I don't have a complicated system as I've removed the aar, and all other adjusting parts of the system. And my blocks were good 1.5 years ago. My engine runs when cold at 3-500rpms till it gets warm and if there were leaks it would just stall.
So I'm stumpt

i have pulled my AAR off to, about a week ago.
what about your FD and injectors? what are you running? it would be good to compare our setup since our symptoms are the same.

here is what i did today, rather interesting.
i reset my timing to 92 degrees. but the interesting thing i found was i can pull a vacuum on the vac advance at idle, set the timing to the 29 degree mark, remove vacuum then rev the car and it is dead on 29 at full advance, no vacu lines connected.
now for the AFR
i was 13.8 at 2500 and 12.2 at idle. my control pressure was set to 3bar. so i raised my CP, to what i dont know. i bumped it up until my idle AFR was 13. without touching anything, 2500 was now 14.8 but get this. above 3k it richened up some, which was fine. i think it was down in the low 14's.
i hope this was not another fluke and it will be running leaner tomorrow. my idle AFR will starts out at about 13 but then drops to 12.5 or 6. it seems to really like this setting.
i am curious to know if your timing is the same. if you pull a vac on the advance at idle, does it hit the 29 degree mark.

i have seen others that have converted lambda cars to euro non lambda have problems and switched back.

its running leaner today.
idle 13.2
cruise 14.8
boost- 10.8 rising to 12 at 6k.

i got the LM rpm and recording to work.

right now i am wondering if the boost retard is doing its thing. i will go check the timing again

i bumped the mixture richer.

11.8 at idle
13.8 cruise
the vac advance and boost retard both work. i dont know if i am actually getting retard under boost.
timing is still the same. pulling a vac at idle gives me 29 degrees, which checks out for checking timing the correct way.

the car did not have the miss after richening it up. going to test it again though.

here is how it sounds or runs.
pull a vac on the timing at idle so it is as the 29degree mark. it has a slight miss, thats how it sounds cruising but may be a little worse at times

I would think, the number you had: 13.2 idle, 14.8 are pretty close to spot on, and the full boost only maybe a tad lean.

You're running too rich. Must be getting lousy gas mileage and maybe your idle is oscillating down and up after you blip the throttle in nuetral.

fwiw for comparison, at operating temperature mines around 13.5-13.8 at idle and it's perfectly smooth and steady, and around 14.8-15.1 steady cruise up to 70mph and it runs perfect all the time.
Boost AFR is never above 11.8 and it depends what gear and what rpms and load it's at. I have a CIS flowtech (approximately 20% flow over stock) modified lambda fuel head and B.L. adjustable control pressure regulator.

I have a control pressure gauge in the car and after a couple minutes when it's fully warmed up control pressure is 59-60 psi. Thats higher than average because it has to be with the modified fuel head to compensate and lean steady cruise AFR's to where I want them.
Also have a digital rpm switch and vacuum solenoid in the boost signal line going to the control pressure regulator. It blocks the boost signal from reaching the bottom of the CPR until 4600 rpms and then it opens.

Those numbers are spot on. Man, where to you get all that stuff and did you install it and tweak it all yourself?

I get the stuff from the same places everybody else does.

Yes, I do all the work and tuning on my car myself. I am mechanically inclined, have good eye-hand coordination, and used to work as a european car mechanic and body person around 30 years ago.

Only thing I don't do is mount and balance my car tires.
I have mounted and balanced my own motorcycle tires in the past.

The only thing I have is the Leask WUR. Where do you get those other components?

You send your fuel head to Home - CIS Flowtech for the modification, I got the digital rpm switch from summit racing, and I got the little pierburg vacuum solenoid from pelican parts.
I don't remember the part number but I did a search in the parts section here for vacuum solenoid and one real similar to the ones that come on a '86-'89 lambda CIS 930 came up for around $35. I think it was for a 996 to control an exhaust recirculation valve or something like that.
They have the pierburg ones for a 930 too, for around 4 or 5x the cost.

i think its time to get an adjustable WUR. i need to richen the boost a little bit.

is it normal under boost for the AFR to start out rich and lean out, about a point, as the RPM;s go up? could this be due to the header and a free(er) flowing muffler?

i will try to check my CP today. leaving for OKC tonight or in the morning.

why would i be a point leaner one today vs yesterday?


i need one of those vacuum solenoids. i want one for my vac retard line