Is this bad or really bad?
 

A few months back a green light came on my dash and I had no idea what that was. The light was green so I thought, Hay it's telling me all is well...so I thought. My rpm needle started jumping which told me my alternator is on the way out. Decided to swap out my alternator and after I removed the fan housing here's what I saw...



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377041147.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377041178.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377042110.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377042127.jpg





To all the experts out there, how bad is this? Should I go ahead and sell one kidney or both? :mad: This can't be good. Any suggestions on next steps I should take?

Also, here are some pics of the wiring to the alternator. The black wire looks a bit crispy. Was thinking about wrapping it with electric tap and hope nothing happens but wanted people's thoughts. I appreciate the help.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377041976.jpg

Thank all,
Sean

For one, I'd replace the ground with new(easy).
And I wouldn't worry too much about the engine unless it's leaking combustion pressure as well. Hows it run? I'd have a compression test and leakdown just to see. I'd doubt it hurts anything though.

^^^ +1.

The harness looks pretty cooked - they all look after 30 years of heat cycles. Do a leak test to find out how bad the leak is. It doesn't look that bad. BTW, the green light was/is the alternator.

Broken stud? Try tightening the heads studs on that cylinder and see what happens. If broken, I would get it fixed. Ground strap I would replace. It may cause funky starting, erratic tach, and other electrical gremlins.

I will add my two cents.
You were not worried about the engine before you saw this? So find hard evidence of a problem before you worry about it now.
Remove the valve covers on the offending side and see if there is a loose head stud by just hand tightening with a ratchet and socket. If there is a finger tight nut then you have a problem if not go back to driving the car and not worrying about it.
As for the ground strap that is missing some insulation, non issue, that is a ground strap if it happens to ground more fine. I am sure there are more important things to do with your money on your car than the ground strap?

i think you are fine on the oil sweat, as others said check head bolts. the ground should def be addressed, as these cars are extremely ground sensitive. easy cheap fix

My 2p....when I pulled my engine, it was FAR wetter than yours looks to be, and I wasn't concerned about it's state of health either (I pulled it to do an EFI conversion....and ended up tearing it down anyway!). Once pulled/stripped, everything was fine....seems to be par for the course with these lumps.

Personally, I would replace that ground wire - easy to do while you've got the alternator out, PITA if it is suspect, and starts doing weird stuff later on.

Thanks for the suggestion guys. I guess I'm not used to cars leaking oil and I freak everytime I see something like this. For the past few months I been upgrading/replacing as things come up. It all started when seals on my turbo went south and was replaced with GT35R. Brian at Rarly8 rebuilt my fuel head / WUR and order the RPM switch, which should be here shortly. I hope a broken head stud is not in my picture but I'll check them out. Again, thanks for the suggestions. Any pointers as this is the first time I'm checking/retorque the head studs? I found some info on torque figures through the search feature but not 100% sure how to access the head studs. I'm assuming it's a matter of draining the oil, removing the valve covers (as ficke mentioned) and then retorquing the head studs? I'm also assuming I will have access to the head studs when I remove the valve covers. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks,
Sean

Once the valve covers are removed the head studs are available. grab a torque wrench and tug on them to see if they're tight. If not, see if they'll tighten down rather than pull out. If they're not tight and not broke, they will torque in most cases so don't worry.

Thanks for the info quattro. I'll check them out.

No need to drain the oil mate, 99% of it will be back in the oil tank and in the feed/return pipework...you'll prob get some residual oil coming out of the lower exhaust valve covers, but most of it should've drained back to the crankcase via the drain tubes (2 per side on the underside)

If you want the green light to go away turn off your fog lights lol the blue one is high beams the green one is fog lights.

i would do a compression and leak down test.
just put a ratchet on the head bolts and give them a little pressure. if it is broken, you will know it. dont ttry to check it at the torque setting

Why not? If there is a problem it's already there. If it's not torqued it should be.

Brando, there are engine builders that say you should not touch old Dilivar (sp?) studs due to the risk of snapping them.

Makes sense.
Perhaps some JB weld then?

Yep, and LOTS of it! :D

JB weld?
 

No JB WELD...no need for it.

the head studs need to be checked...if one is broke you will find it.
Re-torque as the manual states and move on.
Clean the engine up and make sure it really is leaking...maybe it is not now.

GET A NEW GROUND STRAP!!

The JB Weld comments are a little joke that Brando and I have been batting around for a year or so (not actually recommending the use of it here).

JB Weld
 

Funny!