930 rear wheel bearings

[Redbarnman]

I have to replace the nearside rear wheel bearing and note from various posts that it is a real PIA job. Hence read everything you can before starting. No one seems to mention the spacer between the two bearings - does this need to be replaced along with the bearings? That is, is it a crush spacer which when the drive shaft nut is done up adjusts to the required length?

[tops911]

I replaced the spacer because I was told it's a crush spacer and you cant get the proper preload with an already crushed spacer. I think I read where someone reused it but as hard a job of job it is to change the rear wheel bearings I did not want to do it twice.
Good luck, Frank

[WERK I]

I think this would be a very good product for out host to sell. A COMPLETE rear wheel bearing KIT that has everything you need to replace one set of 930 rear wheel bearings.

[proffighter]

The spacer has only to be replaced if it's too much compressed as you will reach zero or less play before desired torque is reached. If not, spacer will just be more compressed. As it is quiet expensive, I would give it a try...

[greg79s]

This job is not too bad if you have the correct tools.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/535057-rear-bearing-replacement-without-removing-swingarm-930-turbo-option-491-cars.html

[greg79s]

My 1985 car did not have the crush spacer. There was a well crafted milled ridge on the inside.

[full quack]

Hey there greg79s,

Your ride must not have been a true 930??

As all 930's have the double bearing arrangement with the crush sleeve spacer that goes in between to two inner races. This is the only way to set the pre-load & run-out on the stub axle.

The control arm has a stop shoulder for the inner bearing race for the outer bearing, and the stub axle has an stop shoulder for the inner race for the inner bearing, but the crush sleeve goes in between the stub axles inner race, and the fixed control arm inner race. Proper torque is applied, the crush sleeve collapses the appropriate amount, and the pre-load & run-out is acheived.

You should always do bearings as a set, both sides of the car, just as you would for doing brakes.......

Mark


Mark

[T77911S]

i think i have a bad driver side bearing. even with my bad hearing i can hear it....unless it is just the tire which i pray it is.
the wheel bearings were suppose to have been replaced by the PO. i need to see if both sides were done.

how do you tell if it then inner orthe outer?

what do you think a shop would charge.

[Ken911]

Doesnt matter if it's the inner or outer you have to replace them all. the only way i could tell my inner one was bad was the inner seal had come apart.

[greg79s]

I had to think back since the repair was 3 years back. My car is a ROW Turbo Look (491) car. The part numbers on the swing arm are from the 930. Here is the Factory Service book reference. It has been too long for me to comment on the job in detail but I know it was not complicated on my car with these tools. The outer bearing was the largest best quality bearing I have seen on any car. The inner bearing is very weak in comparison and the dust seal was the inside appeared to not last long.



Mark[/QUOTE]

[full quack]

greg79s

That service bulletin is definitely for a single bearing swing arm, and the instructions clearly do not talk about torqueing the stub axle nut or addressing the second control arm bearing set.

That being said, that really nice Porsche 911 bearing removal/installation tool works like a charm on that style of single bearing control arm.

You can get that tool set to work for the turbo control arm, but it requires a little Monkey business, and a couple of home made extra parts, plus a lot of patience!

Mark

[torresmd]

I was convinced that I was having bearing noise a few months ago and asked my mechanic to check it out. He told me that the 930 bearings are really heavy duty and do not usually go bad. My tires were the creating the incredibly loud humming noise. I replaced them with Michelins and the noise resolved.

[T77911S]

i hope mine is tires. i just have not had time to swap the left and right.

i did the rear bearings on my 914 yeeeeears ago, so i have done them. i also converted to 5 lug.
so i bought an 88 325is that needed both rears. they.....kicked......my.....A$$$$$!!
i have a large slide hammer, bent that! all these home depot jigs, bent, broke themyou name it.
i ended up pulling the arms and taking them to a machine shop and having them pressed.

i think the 930 ones were done. so even if i need to do one, it should come out easier i hope.


i like the suggestion above, which i have used on other things.
put some torque on the puller or press, THEN heat it till i pops. that way you dont heat it more than is needed.

[infraredcalvin]

I just finished one side on mine, Ned to do the other side. The Home Depot makeshift tool worked (sort of) getting the races out of the trailing arm, you need a race removal tool for the stub axel. It was too hard to get the HD tool to align and get the new races in straight, so I took the rear trailing arm off and took to my shop to use the press. Made it all so much easier to do the job quickly. For the other side I'm going to start with removing the trailing arm and taking using the press off the bat.

[twin plugged targa]

I just had my offside rear bearing changed as there was some play and worsening vibration when I turned to the left and disappeared completely when I turned to the right!
I still have the noise and also suspect badly worn tires as I have a lot of neg camber and uneven wear on front tires!
Tires may be cheaper than any more bearing jobs!
- trouble shooting vibrations seems very hit and miss!

[shbop]

Anyone know what size the P297a is? Having a heck of a time with stub axles. Tried bolting-up the slide hammer, but it didn't even budge.