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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Indianapolis
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Air Injection Removal Question

While I am waiting on the powdercoater and plater to finish my rear suspension parts, I removed the air cleaner and intercooler to have better luck replacing my shocks. That prompted me to rebuild the recirc valve that has been clicking for a year now with the parts collecting dust on my toolbox. In trying to remove the recirc valve, all of the Air Injection parts kept getting in the way and want to rip it all out.

However, I'm not ready to do the injectors and manifold until I get an exhaust. Is it safe to say that I could remove the entire top side of the system as long as I keep the check valve in place???? Then I would only need to remove the bottom side when I do the exhaust and let me get more crap out of the engine bay?

Am I thinking correctly?

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-Todd
1987 911 Turbo, Marine Blue, GT35R, BB Headers, Tial, Andial IC
Old 03-07-2014, 04:24 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Central Washington State
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Yes, even the check valve. Just plug all open hoses and such. My poor old crispy critter had everything removed except for the plumbing and injectors beneath the engine. That was on my list of many things to do, finish the partial job that the PO started.
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, B&B intercooler, stock 3LDZ.
Old 03-07-2014, 06:21 PM
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I drove around for quite a few years like that with no issue, until that plumping rusted and bit the dust making my car sound like a VW bug. Six plugs and all was well again without the remaining detritus hanging off the bottom of the engine,
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Richard
1982 930, K27-7200, Ruf wheels, Leask WUR, Tial WG, RarlyL8 headers & single out muffler, SC cams, TK I/C
2018 GTi, 2020 AMG E53 wagon ski car
2004 BMW R1100S
Old 03-07-2014, 06:38 PM
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Yes I did a top side removal and drove the car around for awhile also before doing the bottom, just plug up everything that remains open like the others said. Don't be afraid to post pictures for any questions as you go. I found after removing my emissions the vac hoses have to be set up differently. I think you will have to do the same.
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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD
Old 03-08-2014, 09:58 AM
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Thanks guys. I have decided to keep the valve going to the distributor pot for now. So, I don't think much needs to really change.

I will say that getting the air pump out was a chore. Now I need to get some vac hose since the remaining ones look a little suspect.

I can actually see the spark plugs!!! Nice. I'll know in a couple of weeks if I screwed anything up.
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-Todd
1987 911 Turbo, Marine Blue, GT35R, BB Headers, Tial, Andial IC
Old 03-08-2014, 12:30 PM
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Dont want to hijack but i think it can relate if theres a problem..
after modifying my 3.0 with 3.3 parts, i can only start it by pushing down on metering plate-- then she fires up , runs for a couple of seconds then dies, .. ive done this over about 5 or 6 times, when she does start theres a lot of smoke , too rich, ive checked vacuum, i guess i can only keep checking for vacuum?
ive turned my tb out to try to get more air to her, but dont know how much as i cant run around the car fast enough before she dies on me.
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Last row 1977 3.0 930 260hp built, still reassembling
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:24 PM
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Robbbyg i saw your thread but couldn't see how you have everything set up so i didn't offer a guess on your problem. Maybe some detailed shots, i saw your AAR was deleted.

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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD
Old 03-08-2014, 07:33 PM
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