Its All Plugged!

[Robbbyg]

Recap,
Euro 3.0 930

i want to drop running temps in summer here in oz so i bought a 84 year factory Intercooler,

To install this advice given to me from fellow pelicans was to get a 3.3 manifold and diverter valve housing,

Ive done this and installed the above bits, with which i had to rotate the throttle body which is the only non factory mod, disregarding ive removed the decel and AAR and the fuel sensor temp regulator thing that sits under the fuel head,

Ive blocked all open lines ,

Car tries to start but backfires then quits,

I know im missing something and my info given has been great to get this far with it.

here is how she is at present, any ideas thoughts as to why she will only backfire even if wrong will be greatly appreciated and tried anyway until she runs .



This pic faintly shows where ive run a hose from the diverter valve housing elbow as dont know where to put it so ive got it hanging, good or not?, you can see it behind the WG charge line

[Robbbyg]

Ill add, car is/was a daily driver prior me to carrying out the upgrades she was running fine with no issues,
I have been playing with the tb idle screw since ive put this on but thats all, i think though because of the difference in flow via intercooler and 3.3 valve assembly i may have to adjust things to compensate for this but have yet to find out what may work ,

Have a nice day in your Porsche wherever you may be
Rob

[Ronnie's.930]

The open brake booster hose (if that is what it is - hard to tell from the pic with the intercooler in the way) is probably causing major running problems as it is a huge vacuum leak and will cause a major rich running condition. I would suggest that first, you plug that and try to start the car and see what happens. The brake booster hose runs all the way to the front of the car, where the booster/master cylinder is, and you will have to find it in the left front portion of the engine compartment. I will take some pics of mine in the daylight tomorrow if you think that will help. I'll look though your posts some more and see if I can find anything that is amiss.

Oh, and the brake booster hose does not go to the diverter valve housing, but to a fairly large nipple on the actual intake manifold (aka: the primary intake manifold).

[Ronnie's.930]

In your other thread yesterday, you asked a question about the horizontal vac nipple on the WUR (whether to plug it or not) - that is where the WUR gets the boost signal for full throttle enrichment and must be connected to one of the nipples on the throttle body (below the throttle plate) or you will not get boost enrichment.

[Ronnie's.930]

Regarding the throttle air bypass screw that you mention above; no amount of turning of it will have any effect until all of the big air leaks, below the throttle plate, are take care of (I know you are still working on that, and I am sure we will get it figured out).

[Ronnie's.930]

In one of your above pics you have a yellow circle around something that says "fuel regulator blocked" - I don't know/can't tell what that is - can you take a closer picture of it?

I want to mention that you are going to need to use some rubber washers, or the factory rubber bushings, on your intercooler mounts or vibration is eventually going to damage the mounting points and/or crack the intercooler core.

[Robbbyg]

Cool thanks,
im able to start it but the metering plate is knocking against the rim loudly,?

revs are still low so ive got leaks still

There is a downward pipe off diverter valve assembly on the back left side, its on a square aluminum or alloy seal, its square at both ends but the back end of it has the elbow.. thats open to air atm, i thought if i blocked it off wont be good , its not the factory bov is it? there was one on my 3.0 diverter housing also i think

[Robbbyg]

Ok, of course its the BOV assembly duh, ive put a filter on it, if i route it where do they actually go to?, in all the diagrams and schematics none of them show the BOV connection routes that ive seen,

Just swapped horizontal WUR hise to a lower point on the TB,

Popping is bad car just backfired after running for about a minute and died on me again.,,

im assuming i still have hoses plugged incorrectly or not tight enough..

Missus has the ****s she has to work tomorrow and she hasnt seen me for three days as ive been working on car , time to have a break.. might sneak out later though when shes asleep and do some more,

[Robbbyg]

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

In one of your above pics you have a yellow circle around something that says "fuel regulator blocked" - I don't know/can't tell what that is - can you take a closer picture of it?

I want to mention that you are going to need to use some rubber washers, or the factory rubber bushings, on your intercooler mounts or vibration is eventually going to damage the mounting points and/or crack the intercooler core.

No problem
heres pic of that part its a fuel solenoid sensor or somehing to that effect

[Ronnie's.930]

Originally Posted by Robbbyg

Ok, of course its the BOV assembly duh, ive put a filter on it, if i route it where do they actually go to?, in all the diagrams and schematics none of them show the BOV connection routes that ive seen,

Yes, that is the factory BOV (also called the diverter valve, dump valve, etc.), and it can not be open to atmosphere, even with a filter on it, with the K-Jetronic fuel system, or it causes an extremely rich running condition. The curved spout on its end cap (the one you put a filter on) should have a hose that runs from it, down beneath the intake manifold, and to the downward curved pipe in the middle of the intake manifold (the combination pipe that also has the upward pointing straight pipe that the decel valve used to be connected to). It is hooked up the exact same way that it was with your original 3.0 setup.

What you have circled there is the cold start injector and I honestly do not know what the purpose of that air spout is (still trying to figure that out) or how it was originally connected. Do you remember what it was hooked up to with your 3.0 set-up? *edit* That spout is apparently the port for the AAV - the 3.3 manifold is a little different than the 3.0 and AAV port is on the other side - so yes, it needs to be plugged if you are not going to use the AAV.

[Robbbyg]

Thanks your a legend,

I dont know how i had that plugged up, i took photos but not of that as at the time i probably thought it was an easy thing to remember..sux gtting old

On the 3.3 manifold i dont have the two curved spouts like i did on the 3.0, so ill route it to the main intake port at the back middle of the manifold as that isnt being used and in currently blocked off..

will post results,,

also the metering plate slapping against the top of the rim..

I have an idea that it could be because i removed this,
I removed it as the clearance was extrmely tight due to the cold air intake, so im going to trim the height of the filter at the silicone base and put it back on see how it goes

Fingers crossed she will run today

[Ronnie's.930]

^^^ nope, that is just the o-ring holder for the stock airbox - won't have anything to do with the slapping you described (I don't use that on my car either as I have a filter directly on the metering assembly like you do). The slapping is because your fuel pressures/metering arm/piston in the fuel head are going crazy at that point.

Rob, the slapping of the metering arm makes me wonder if you have a partial obstruction in one, or more, of your fuel lines. Since you had everthing apart for cleaning, I would suggest that you disconnect each of them and check to see if maybe you left a piece of tape, or plastic wrap or something like that, on any of the fittings.

Also, you can't keep repeatedly depressing the metering arm and firing fuel into the cylinders . . . doing so will possibly fill the cylinders with fuel and can cause a hydraulic lock situation which could bend/break a connecting rod(s), and/and or the crankshaft, when you engage the starter, and will definitely put a lot of fuel into the oil.

[16Volt]

You may want to take a look at my threads for the decel valve and vacuum hose routing. The caveat is your 3.0l TB, where as mine is a stock 3.3.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/797183-cruise-surge-boost-issues.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/797387-deleting-decel-valve.html

Again, this is a 3.3 TB, deleted decel, stock AAR and WUR config.

IMG_5780 by thecrashingdoor, on Flickr

[Jim2]

I've got to say, thanks Ronnie for your patience while helping to guide Robby through this project.

I'd like to contribute that it appears the high idle bypass has been removed (also called AAV?) Robby says he has to blip the throttle to keep it going, the bypass valve is needed to maintain idle during warming up.

[oilonly]

The diffference between early and late model 930's throttle bodys just in case.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/489189-early-late-throttle-body-comparison.html


And yes the AAV/AAR stays open when cold and closes when warm so i would install that back for better cold starting. JMHO

[Robbbyg]

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

^^^ nope, that is just the o-ring holder for the stock airbox - won't have anything to do with the slapping you described (I don't use that on my car either as I have a filter directly on the metering assembly like you do). The slapping is because your fuel pressures/metering arm/piston in the fuel head are going crazy at that point.

Rob, the slapping of the metering arm makes me wonder if you have a partial obstruction in one, or more, of your fuel lines. Since you had everthing apart for cleaning, I would suggest that you disconnect each of them and check to see if maybe you left a piece of tape, or plastic wrap or something like that, on any of the fittings.

Also, you can't keep repeatedly depressing the metering arm and firing fuel into the cylinders . . . doing so will possibly fill the cylinders with fuel and can cause a hydraulic lock situation which could bend/break a connecting rod(s), and/and or the crankshaft, when you engage the starter, and will definitely put a lot of fuel into the oil.

possible there is obstruction, i did have paper ape on the fuel head outlets when cleaning..ill check them ,

Ive now run the BOV line to the Main intake on Manifold there was no where else i could put it, i think the decel and or AAR was there so it was a free hole anyway ,
Ive gumped all the fittings with spray copper gasket it is extremely sticky and i think will seal the hoses well so hopefully leaks are taken care of, however i wont try to start now until i check for obstruction.. i hope its easy as that

[Robbbyg]

Originally Posted by 16Volt

You may want to take a look at my threads for the decel valve and vacuum hose routing. The caveat is your 3.0l TB, where as mine is a stock 3.3.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/797183-cruise-surge-boost-issues.html
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/797387-deleting-decel-valve.html

Again, this is a 3.3 TB, deleted decel, stock AAR and WUR config.

IMG_5780 by thecrashingdoor, on Flickr

Hi yes ive seen those threads already, i think ive read every thread twice on the matter, My TB is rotated also which lends to even more confusion when i plug things, which made me think re dizzy vacuum line i may have hat on the wrong side would that matter? as ive rotated tb ive still got it on the left, , ill try with and without

[Robbbyg]

Yes i need to blip or will stall, im thinking vacuum loss on that,

Re AAR i was thinking also of reinstalling it but where? ive now run the BOV to the Main intake manifold , no more main holes left on the intake..

ill post pic on new configuralation soon as i can

With TB pic i realise ive got the dizzy vacuum still on the same side as i had before rotation.. would that matter? if so why? height plays a part in dizzy vacuum?

lots of brain activity too early in the morning need a coffee first

[oilonly]

Robby if you get a chance tell us what you have connected or plugged on all the ports pictured here.

[Robbbyg]

Hi i cant thats like my old 3.0,
ive put on a 3.3 intake

Ive just plugged bov to the cold start injector hose outlet as i blew through it and it travels the same route as the main intake hole,

On the Main intake hole im putting back on the AAR,