Engine mount crossbar

[porsche 930twin]

Hi does anyone make a custom engine mount crossbar for 911 turbo .. im after something a little more hi-tech looking..

[pkracer21j]

935 Style Engine Mount

[OldSpool87]

Rennline Stainless Steel Engine Mount Cross Bar - Porsche-Rennline, Inc.

[Rennline]

As OldSpool linked we have a really nice stainless piece if you're interested I'd be more than happy to answer any questions or get one out the door for you!

Shawn@Rennline.com

[TurboKraft]

IMO, the Rennline part is too flexible. Nice that it's stainless, but too flimsy for my comfort. (Sorry guys, we do like just about everything else you make.)

The D-Zug one is retro race cool! Does it allow you to keep the stock engine tins, maybe with minor trimming/modifying?


FWIW, the stock part is easily modified to be sturdier at the ends by welding in thick gussets, and lightened by using a hole saw and dimple die.

[Rennline]

Originally Posted by TurboKraft

IMO, the Rennline part is too flexible. Nice that it's stainless, but too flimsy for my comfort. (Sorry guys, we do like just about everything else you make.)

The D-Zug one is retro race cool! Does it allow you to keep the stock engine tins, maybe with minor trimming/modifying?


FWIW, the stock part is easily modified to be sturdier at the ends by welding in thick gussets, and lightened by using a hole saw and dimple die.

I do like how you have that one modified, but if you're talking about rigidity stainless is about impossible to beat. Mild is better suited to parts that are constantly cycled, like caliper brackets, but not where you want a part to be as rigid as possible.

If you look at our brace it is effectively strengthened on the top and bottom by 90* gussets running lengthwise in addition to really heavy gussets where you've showed some welded in. Plus without being welded on nearly as much as modifying a stock piece you aren't introducing the brittleness that can come with heat cycling, especially on a 25+ year old part, and we use stainless throughout meaning you aren't welding estranged metals together.

Between the superior material, thick plate and gussets on the end "flexible" isn't a term that comes to mind!

[TurboKraft]

Hi Shawn, looking on your website, I see Rennline has updated the design.

The prior generation version, as customers have brought to us to include on their builds, is shown in the top photo (http://www.rennline.com/images/m01s-rs.jpg). It only had the gusset along the top, and the threaded ends had the single weld bead.

I see now you've updated the design with the lengthwise gussets top & bottom, and boxed in the ends. Glad to see the revision, that's sure to make the part considerably more rigid in all 3 axes.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention, we'll try them again.

[Rennline]

Yes we revised the design a while ago for that exact reason, you're right that the old setup was more flexible. This is definitely a much more beefy design, I'm glad you like the new unit better!

[Spenny_b]

Here's my modification to a stock brace, total cost about £10 including re-powder coating it. Not that exotic...in fact, not exotic at all!....but looks stock-ish, which is the "factory sympathetic" look I'm trying to kind of achieve with my build.



But....I do rather like the Rennline one. Damnit guys, stop posting engine pr0n, I'm trying to finish my build, not look at ways to spend even more money!!!!

[Rennline]

Sorry?

I like your modifications too, you must have a nice powder coat guy to have got all that done for £10, kudos!

[JFairman]

That looks like an older one that has no female threads on the inside. I may be wrong though.
The later ones with female threads inside don't need a lock nut on the bottom and are sooo much easier to use.

Antiseize or grease on the bolt will keep it from possibly rusting into the stock ones.

[Spenny_b]

Originally Posted by rennline

Sorry?

Hahaha!

Originally Posted by rennline

I like your modifications too, you must have a nice powder coat guy to have got all that done for £10, kudos!

Yeah, a good biker pal of mine owns a local fabrication shop (doing industrial scale welding rather than patching up rot-box cars, eg, all the overhead gantries used in the Olympic Park for London 2012)...he enjoys a good "petrol project" on a Saturday morning...the metal I already had in my workshop, and the powdercoating shop did it as part of a large batch of other stuff a few years ago, so *approx* £10 for this item....although I'm sure they're half-expecting me to bring them the bodyshell at some point, such is the frequency of me going up there with yet another box of parts!

Originally Posted by JFairman

That looks like an older one that has no female threads on the inside. I may be wrong though.
The later ones with female threads inside don't need a lock nut on the bottom and are sooo much easier to use.

Antiseize or grease on the bolt will keep it from possibly rusting into the stock ones.

Indeed, it must've been an earlier one, no threads....I had to go out and check though, it was over two years ago since I reworked it. Wish I'd known at the time that there was a later version, I'd have welded on the lock nut....grrrr...hindsight, eh?

[TurboKraft]

Originally Posted by Spenny_b

Indeed, it must've been an earlier one, no threads....I had to go out and check though, it was over two years ago since I reworked it. Wish I'd known at the time that there was a later version, I'd have welded on the lock nut....grrrr...hindsight, eh?

Nope, you have a C2T.
All 964/993 cars have studs protruding down from their engine mounts, and thus use a shouldered nut underneath the crossbar. 996/986, too, same mounts.

[Spenny_b]

Originally Posted by TurboKraft

Nope, you have a C2T.
All 964/993 cars have studs protruding down from their engine mounts, and thus use a shouldered nut underneath the crossbar. 996/986, too, same mounts.

Ahh ok thanks for clarification Chris....was confused to there being reference to an "early one", as mine's a late MY1992/registered '93 Gen 964, so the later end of 964 production.