Opinions-Coupler 7006 (pic)

[wjfk32]

Greetings:

2-weeks ago having a starting problem--cranking--no start...Checked fuses-etc..etc.. Sent out my MSD6AL (2007-model made in U.S.A.)-to Texas--Purchased in 2008.. Hopefully this is the culprit.. No Buzz/humming on the ON position..

The following week-
Nice puddle leading out of the garage. Thinking of the worst..................

Thank goodness it was only a coupler.

The inner measurements of the hose is 2 5/8 give or take..

Is anyone using a silicone coupler reducer??? or just a straight coupler-??? what measurements????

Thnxs

Walt

[Alexm930]

Walt that coupler looks like it needs replacement

2 5 in to 2 75 in Reducer Silicone Coupler 4 Polyester Layer Turbo Blue Intake | eBay

[jwasbury]

A failed coupler would create air leaks and cause running or starting problems, but there shouldn't be oil in the compressor housing. A little oil, ok. That looks excessive to me...perhaps more than just the coupler is in need of attention?

[wjfk32]

Thnxs

I had the back of the car raised on approx-- 12" jack stands---.for 1-2hrs--Then dropped the car--maybe a little fast--- Don't know if that caused an effect for the oil to slosh back quickly...????

[JFairman]

I've never heard any hum or buzz from good working analog or digital MSD 6 Al ignitions. They are totally silent.

That turbo has a problem. Probably needs a rebuild or live with it till it becomes a smoker. Jacking the car up and down quickly won't do anything like that. I see a 3k emblem in the compressor housing but can't tell which one it is.

The short 2.75" inner diameter multi ply reinforced hose that has oil seeping out around it can be bought at any hydraulic hose supply place for less than $10. A silicone hose is best because it is much more heat resistant and they are more pliable so they're easier to get on and off. They look better anyway.
That one may be OK to use still if it isn't cracked and it will seal better with a T-bolt clamp or a new worm gear hose clamp instead of a worn out old skinny hose clamp.

Or buy a new hose from a fellow Pelican member here... Darrin has the red ones on clearance right now for $2. The hump hose will work fine.
Your's looks like an original 2.75" ID hose all the way through, not a tapered one.

http://www.racepartsolutions.com/index.php/categories1/part/silicone-hose/silicone-hose-2-75-id-3-ply-coupler-black-pn-275blk-race-part-solutions

The 2.75" ID hump hose he has on clearance right now for $2.
http://www.racepartsolutions.com/index.php/categories1/561-375-6277/clearance/2-75-id-silicone-hump-hose-connector-red-race-part-solutions

[wjfk32]

Thnxs again for the info...

Yup--The my(old)2007-msd6al did buzz/hum on startups and stayed on while driving. Did chk the MSD forums back in the day and confirmed with msd-techs. I believe a year after 2008 or so they out with the new msd6al--no buzz--just a red light signal-to if it is working...

A little some on startup now and then...nothing bad... Had fellow drivers look at my exhaust when doing some top-end runs of excessive smoke--etc..etc....So far all ok....

Have to keep an eye on it......................... as usual...

[wjfk32]

Update-
MSD-Charged $43.05 for repair on my cc....No status update on their web site or email to me-Just states the receiving date to MSD....

My msd6al was built in 2007-USA- Purchased new 2008--And not heavily used either...

It could have been worse.

Walt

[wjfk32]

Update-
MSD-on their website stated my MSD-unit was sent back to me with no explanation. Got in touch with a tech trying to get info what went wrong. After giving my RMA # the tech expressed I got the works done to the unit. I was a little surprised of his statement.. I asked him again...He expressed a lot of transistors and electrical parts were burnt out . Basically almost all components in the box-was replaced. Once the new parts are in, they run the unit for 7hrs straight at 7000rpm.... Chk it over again. Warranty is only for 30 days...

See what happens.

[wjfk32]

Greetings: A new silicone coupler installed with the repaired msd6al. 2 new diodes-3 resistors-ring lugs on the pwer cables...All put in and the car started right away........ Now i suspect i will have a problem with my 7006-turbo(rebuild time-tubo seals) or go new? SUGGESTIONS PLEASE- I have cis-sc cams-polished ports-euro headers..etc....Like to stick with borg warner-bolt on...i do luv my 7006...what to do? thxs.

[RarlyL8]

We can convert it to a K27/29 hybrid for a nice bump sense it needs rebuilt anyway.

[wjfk32]

Kool thnxs for the feed back. Will keep u posted when its time... thnxs

[JFairman]

Your 7006 is no longer made and they have good top end boost and not much low end and mid range because of the good sized turbine housing and turbine wheel. They may be collector items for people with a RUF that came with one. They are also very durable and they last a long time. Don't waste money rebuilding it unless you're sure it needs it. If it does need to be rebuilt Durabilt turbo does an excellent job.

I think if you put a larger and heavier K29 compressor wheel and housing on it making it into a hybrid it would have even more turbo lag because it will take longer to spool up the K29 wheel.
This is all really old school stuff and K27's are very over priced and expensive while they shouldn't be because they are currently obsolete compared to the new Borg Warner journal bearing turbos and Garret ball bearing turbos that all cost less.
There are ways to spend the same or less money while gaining a lot more performance by selling the K27 7006 to someone that wants one and buying a ball bearing Garrett turbo like the GSX 61 with billet compressor wheel that is built on a Garrett T04Z frame or a ball bearing Garrett GT35R.

There's no comparison in the performance. I had a stock 3K K27 7006 that was in my car when I got it, then a UMW/Durabilt K27 HFS I bought new, then another different 3K K27 7006 with the 3 allen head bolts in the compressor cover I bought used, and then a new ball bearing Garrett GSX 61 turbo with billet compressor wheel from turbos direct that cost less than the K27's and comes on earlier and faster at lower RPMS and smoothly builds more power as the revs go up.

[RarlyL8]

If going with a non-K27 there are hundreds of options. If staying with the plug and play K27 frame then a K29 hybrid based on the 7006 is a plus. The turbine wheel is custom, not K29 so it spools faster than the 7006.