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Little bit of CAD design to start the day off.
Simulating Blue Sea aux fuse box.




Blue Sea 5046 8 slot fuse box should fit right here.



Finally got front wheels back on and sway bar brackets torqued down, allowing a proper test fit of the front skid plate.



Maybe it's 1/2 lower that the air dam. Tie down hooks are still lower by a smidge.



Now that I am back on the wheels I was able to install and torque the strut bar.





Next I will need to sort out the dashboard core. That's going to take a bit of work.


Last edited by reclino; 10-26-2025 at 02:41 PM..
Old 10-26-2025, 02:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #541 (permalink)
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Possibly the last new 044 Bosch fuel pump.




Seems to pass all the counterfeit checks.



Sometimes when you look under a rock a-u-t-o you find they only have 1 left at a very fair price.
Old 10-30-2025, 03:28 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #542 (permalink)
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Nice score on the fuel pump.

The new pumps I got from our hosts here are super noisy.

Good progress on your build.

How hard is it to remove the dash?

John
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Basket Case 914 restoration: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=79106
Old 10-31-2025, 04:42 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #543 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fourblades View Post
Nice score on the fuel pump.

The new pumps I got from our hosts here are super noisy.
The noise is often because of cavitation -- ask me how I know...

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Old 10-31-2025, 10:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #544 (permalink)
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I think the 930 fuel tank setup sets the stage for cavitation. The inlet with strainer is likely restrictive at the high high flow rate of the 930. It's probably just fine with the 3.2 single pump set ups.
Dashboard pad removal was not so bad,.gauges come out,.driver's side and center nuts can be removed through the gauge holes. A few nuts to work from the frunk, with long 1/4 extensions it's tedious and I did lose a washer in the removal. Heard it slide down towards the drivers fender, but never saw it.

Last edited by reclino; 11-01-2025 at 05:25 AM..
Old 10-31-2025, 03:14 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #545 (permalink)
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Going to be ordering the 044 fuel inlet adapter from TurboKraft. Now what else do I need from them?
Old 11-01-2025, 07:46 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #546 (permalink)
 
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Are you going to need to re-trim your dash? Can you do that yourself?

You need the TurboKraft long neck intercooler so you can eliminate the shuttle value and a lot of lag. A really great upgrade.

Chris also made me a 935-style boost gauge to replace the clock, very handy way to monitor your engine.

John
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Real IMSA 914 restoration: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=91937
Basket Case 914 restoration: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=79106
Old 11-01-2025, 12:32 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #547 (permalink)
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I have talked to Chris in the past about a long neck intercooler. This is an upgrade that could happen after the car is on the road. With 2 kids in college the funding has many places to go.
Old 11-02-2025, 05:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #548 (permalink)
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As I continue to work on wiring cleanup I have spent a bit of time reviewing wiring diagrams.



The positive battery terminal has three extra hot wires as shown on this image, 2 x 4mm and 1 x 6mm the 6mm seems to go directly to fuse 1 2 and 3. The 4mm wires are hot directly to the ignition switch.
Does anyone know how much current these wires transfer?
I have some extra fuses now, I could provide a bit of protection to this circuit.

Bonded studs on to mount the fuse box.


Still a work in progress but it's looking better.



Last edited by reclino; 11-18-2025 at 02:28 PM..
Old 11-18-2025, 05:51 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #549 (permalink)
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Before I post in the parts forum I am going to ask here first.

Does anyone have a core speedometer where the circuit is fried but the housing may still be fine?



While attempting to remove the E-clip I cracked the support "arm" where the axle for the odometer gear mounts.



It didn't break all the way and it's possible I can repair / reinforce this.

But long term this may require replacement.
Old 11-23-2025, 06:18 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #550 (permalink)
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First plan of attack is glue the crack.



Using gravity and the aluminum block to provide clamping force.


Will check it after 24 hours cure time, then develop a reinforcement.


On to more fun things.
Prep work to bond on the dead pedal



Still brainstorming ideas to clamp this while the adhesive cures.




Old 11-23-2025, 03:09 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #551 (permalink)
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