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Join Date: Feb 2007
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Sump plug
So annual spring oil change all set to replug and fill with oil.
Always do it the same. As I can't get a torque wrench on the side drain plug I use a breaker bar. Torque the sump plug to 30.8 lbs and then kind of fake it by feel with the case plug.New crush washers as always. Torqueing the nut and thinking to myself geez I feel like I'm pushing pretty hard, and of course it lets go. Torque wrench fcked up and now the sump threads are a little fcked up too. For sure this is going to leak. Any ideas short of pulling the tank? thx d |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
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30lbs????
i had to look that up. i have always just hand tightened it. i had one of my torque wrenches mess up. the adjustment came loose. just to see if it would work i re-calibrated it useing my beam torque wrench. then i had it calibrated by the cal van at work. he said it was dead on.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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Ouch, very few areas truly need torquing.
When common sense fails take it to a professional. |
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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Yeah 911s used the wrench last week at 98lbs on a tractor and no probs. Always back off tension when done.
Fck |
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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Actually the shop manual gives torque specs for most bolts.
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Chain fence eating turbo
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,195
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Reciprocating parts or high load parts I use torque wrenches on. All else is by feel. Sorry to hear your troubles. Hope you get lucky. |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
Posts: 8,559
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Bully, so you damaged the treads on the oil tank drain? I ask, because in some parts of your post you say "sump" (most people use that you refer to the engine case drain plug), but then mention removing the tank.
If talking about the tank, and depending on how damaged the threads are, you can probably have success using Locktite Blue or similar to seal the threads. You'll obviously have to remove the plug and thoroughly clean all threads with brake cleaner (plug and drain) . . . would be a good idea to spray plenty of it into the oil tank so it runs out of the drain hole and takes oil with it. It will be difficult to get the treads oil free with the tank installed, but you might be able to do it. If it were mine, I would give it a try. |
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Preferred pronoun:Maestro
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Group W Bench
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Crush washers are called that for a reason. Go slow, trust in a deft sense of touch and you can feel them crush - shortly after things get snug. Give one light tug after that and you should be good. If you're a little loose (all yours, Ronnie) you can always snug it up a tad. If you go too far though, well, it seems as if you've figured that one out...
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When in doubt, use overwhelming force. |
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Banned
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^^^ Norm, it reads like you are an expert at tugging - interesting, though, that you suggest finishing with a "light tug" (must be talking "post-finish" tugging)!!!!
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2001
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Yeah...
...you could say Ronknees "is a little loose"!!! Needs to put a SUMP PLUG in that hollowed echoing abyss! I mean, here he's seen playing Rugby this week - so loose back there, can't even hold it in!: ![]() (pre-emptive Ronniestrike!!!: NO, ^that^ is NOT me nor do I wish it to be, dream about it, or whatever other "bounces off me / sticks on you - I'm rubber / you're glue" retort he preDICKtably will attempt to feebly muster in vein!) Last edited by krasuskyp; 04-07-2015 at 09:25 AM.. |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
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^^^ Paul, that's my sure fire (literally) defense mechanism for when you start eyeballing me with bad intent!!!
Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 04-07-2015 at 10:02 AM.. |
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Preferred pronoun:Maestro
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Group W Bench
Posts: 11,351
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^^^ And you think that's a deterrent to him how, exactly?
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When in doubt, use overwhelming force. |
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Yeah Ronnie I was thinking blue Loctite myself, or perhaps even high heat Teflon tape. from the look of it, these are all worth trying before wrestling the sump tank out..
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Banned
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you could JB weld one of those pet cock valves on there so you dont have to unthread anything again.
automotion use to sell them years ago. i had one of those plugs on the head on the exhaust side where the emmisions crap was bolted to come out. the threads were gone. i JB welded a plug back in. considering the temps and pressure it lasted about 2 years. i ended up putting in a helicoil and another plug with JB weld on it. nevre came out again.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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Banned
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t-minus till Ronnie's "pet cock" joke (he's got a personal KINGDOM of them, assuredly)...
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Registered
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The pet cock is a good idea.
I just installed the plug with a generous amount of pink Teflon tape. Now heating up oil on the stove to dump a little in to see if it seeps. My wife truly thinks I have lost my marbles... |
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Banned
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I pulled some threads out of the other end of that tank as I removed the oil feed line from someone previously over torqueing it.
I used a spark plug fouler (the ball-seat was not seating any more so I had to improvise) and some Teflon tape, not a drip all year. Good luck! (I'd have to have marbles to have lost them, so tell yer wife yer ahead of the game!) |
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Banned
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