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'86 930: Turbo Oil Feed Hose Leak
After a ride last weekend, I noticed are large amount of oil on the ground. Traced the source of the oil to the oil feed hose to the turbo.
This is the hose that is visible right by the distributor and runs from a steel line which ends above cylinder #2 and runs to the down tube to the turbo. My question is what type/size of hose is this and where can I find it? Thanks in advance.
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you should be able to get it here, although I have not looked.
is the hose leaking or is it the gasket at the turbo. I would also check the connections. I think there is one right in front of the dist.
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
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The rubber part of the hose is not sold separately from the metal pipe portion (it is crimped on to the pipe). The whole assembly is available new (several different option), but you could also remove the pipe/hose combo and take it to a hydraulic hose shop and they will replace the rubber section only (the metal pipe and all fitting will be re-used).
Link to new hose/pipe - Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI |
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The hose going to the downtube to the turbo is held on with a fuel injection-type hose clamp. I think it's also connected to the metal feed tube with a clamp as well. Will have to look carefully tomorrow at the tube-hose connection.
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
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Then that is a "not good" repair of the original hose assembly that someone did in the past (not how is was originally made - no hose clamps were used).
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here is what the connection to the oil down pipe looks like. the other line rins to the left then across to the rear of the engine and connects to the sending unit for its oil supply.
here is the long one 930-107-125-08-M127 ( I have since fixed the gaps and sealed the air leaks.)
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![]() I have a fixture for this and can "Re-Hose" this for very little cost...... ![]() Please email me for info. Len at Autosportengineering dot com
Last edited by BoxsterGT; 08-27-2016 at 11:11 AM.. |
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I might have a used one you can have for pretty much the price of shipping. PM me if interested and I'll see if I can find it.
_
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Thanks for the replies. Here's some pics of the oil feed hose with hose clamps. At this point though I'm not certain the turbo oil feed hose is the culprit.
As I've been searching for the oil leak, I've felt below the hose and didn't find too much fresh oil. Some but not a lot and not by either of the hose connections. When I felt below the other oil line shown behind the turbo oil feed hose, I came up with a good bit of fresh oil. Now I think it might be this hose that is leaking. It looks wet and there's plenty of oil laying below the hose fitting. Maybe I need to replace both hoses. So will I need to drop the engine to replace these hoses? It's really tight around the distributor and I couldn't seem to get a good grip of the turbo oil feed fitting to loosen it up. ![]() ![]() THIS PIC IS UPSIDE DOWN... ![]() THIS PIC IS UPSIDE DOWN...
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
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The other hose is the left side, oil supply for the left, cam chain tensioner, and those are common leakers when they age and start leaking at the crimped spots. Those are available new, as well, but people have reported having difficulty getting the new ones to fit properly. Maybe Len can rebuild that one too, or a local hydraulic shop could.
You don't have to drop the engine to replace either of those if you remove enough components to get to them. It would be a good idea to rebuild or replace the turbo oil supply hose, regardless of if it is leaking currently or not, because the past repair done to it is really not good enough for long term piece of mind. Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 08-25-2016 at 10:38 PM.. |
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replace that hose and perhaps the cam line also,. it does nto look good. it is also bent wrong.
I had the same problem with the right said cam line. several lines later I got one that fit correctly, still had to bend it some too. but that "Z" in the cam line stresses it, it should be straight. if you get one that is close, bend it so it is straight. I think I went thru about 4 or 5 hoses. finally I ordered 3 at one time and used the first one that fit. one I could not even get it to bolt up it was so bad. after degrease the top and bottom of the engine really good and look for the next leak.
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Started taking things off to get to the hoses. Took the turbo oil feed hose off. Looks like the ends were made for clamped-on hose. Maybe OEM or aftermarket?
I assume I need to take off the intake plenum? Given the limited space, it looks like the fuel distribution body has to come off the intake plenum. Is this correct? ![]()
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Quote:
Also, what do I have to remove to get the cam line out/in? Looks like the distributor comes out, and the air hose for the cabin heat. Anything else needs to come off?
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I had Len redo my leaking hose, it had clamps like your's. Len re-hoses with the correct crimp fittings. The hose worked out great!
Frank
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, PK CDI, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel Last edited by tops911; 08-29-2016 at 07:07 PM.. |
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Work in Progress
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I'm building my engine now so I thought it might be helpful for you to see where this hose goes exactly.
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degrease it FIRST!!
don't know about you but I hate working on a greasy motor. I have had the intake off several times with the engine n the car, not a big deal. the AFM/fuel dist comes off as one unit, 3 bolts hold it on. you may end up needing to replace injector blocks once the intake is removed. check the flatness of the intake manifold surface along with the injector blocks. also look for cracks. take note of the intake gaskets. they do not go on the same way for the left side vs the right side. turn the intake over and take note of how the gaskets fit. for me the problem was there was a very thin line where the gasket covered the manifold. I ended up getting my manifold machined flat and putting aluminum IJ blocks on. I have conflicting feelings about them. I think the OE blocks provide better insulation from heat soak, but I had problems with the intake bolts coming lose with the plastic ones. the job is a big one. I also powdercoated my intake and sheet metal at the same time. not sure how the short pipe to the turbo is going to work. I don't remember which cam line I used. the last time I took it all apart I ordered 3 and sent 2 back. if you do all this you might want to remove the fan shroud and make sure it is clean under there, with all that oil I am betting it is not, the fan will suck oil into it and cover the cylinders.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
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Those are the standard, OEM hose fittings - that is what crimped on fittings look like once the crimp has been cut off and the rubber hose removed.
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I've confirmed the leak is the cam line. I replaced the turbo feed hose just to make sure the culprit is the cam line. Cleaned everything in that area and took it for a ride. Same leaking and puddling on the floor as before.
I'll be ordering a new cam line most likely from PP unless someone has a better supplier. For the turbo feed hose, I know the clamp on hose is not correct but that was not causing any issues. Seeing how the intake must come off to replace the turbo feed hose, I'm choosing not to replace the pipe at this time. Sometime in the future I need to drop the engine to change the clutch. I'll change the hose and pipe assembly at that time. One other question: what type of oil should I be using? I've heard folks using Brad Penn 20W-50 for the zinc content. What is the preferred oil and weight?
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