Sitting for 20 years
 

Hello, after years of litigation I finally got possession of my fathers 1974 911 ! It's been in a garage in Punxsutawney Pa. Covered but no temperature control. I'm sure engine will need a rebuild, gaskets and belt all fluids, battery....been sitting on tires. So, I guess my question is there anything I should do until I can get the rebuild done

Any pics mileage ?

Love the 74s, I’ve had three of them. Show some pics.

Search here especially user Grady Clay for some good revival threads. It will be a lot work but not impossible. First thing I’d do is get a bore scope and look inside cylinders and oil tank etc. Maybe it turns over... Maybe it was stored drained of fuel by a car guy etc..

Picture of the engine bay.........
 

Please post some pictures of the engine bay. If the car still has the original engine will help a lot. Thanks.

Tony

Question is, did Punxatawney Phil say it's time to get her out of the garage for a nice Spring project?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1549737639.jpg

I might not need a rebuild. Mentally, don't go there. Post some pics of this car.

I DEFINITELY would not presume the engine needs a rebuild...
A visual and history if any info available sets the course direction to see what is and not needed until further time spent with car...
Pm me if any q’s... enjoy the journey... bob

My guess is that the one system which most needs attention is the fuel system. Over time fuel can turn to a jell. The tank can be drained, and various methods used to clean it up. The fuel pump can be removed, and some fresh fuel run through it (just hook it up to a battery to spin it). I think there is a small filter in the pump, so back flushing under pressure might be a good idea.

You can disconnect the fuel lines, and figure out a way to use air pressure to blow fuel through them.

The CIS system might be a bit more tricky. The warm up regulator would be easy to deal with - remove it, disassemble it, and clean up anything which looked like it needed cleaning in the upper chamber, especially the built in filter (tiny holes in the casting under one of the fittings).

Obviously remove the fuel filter. Cutting it open might give you an idea of the state of the gasoline or its residue.

You can remove the injectors, and test them - squirt brake or carb cleaner into them, and blow with a rubber tipped shop air nozzle. Look at the spray pattern. Replacing them isn't all that expensive.

Easy enough to remove the high pressure lines from the fuel distributor to the injectors so you can make sure they are clean inside and clear.

Dealing with the fuel distributor may be trickier. If you remove it, you can carefully remove the central piston (what the air metering flap pushes up and down to adjust the fuel flow to the air flow). The usual problem is that it falls out as you are removing the FD, and falls to a concrete floor and maybe gets scratched. It is a very precise fit, so you want to be very careful of it.

If it just falls out, maybe there is no gunky gasoline nearby? Just be careful. If it is stuck, maybe due to gunky gas, getting it to come out would call for special care. You might be able to blow it out with shop air. Tony will have ideas about this.

Changing oil and the filter are easy and obvious. You should flush the brake system with new fluid, and refill it when all the old is out.

You could change the transmission fluid, but my guess is that this is unnecessary. Same with the CV grease, and the front axle bearing grease - I think this stuff will all still work despite sitting there.

New battery?

911 tweaks is spot on . An engine rebuild should not be assumed . The cylinders are Alusil or Nickasil so not rusty . If the engine turns over , It may not because of a pile of carbon squeezed between the piston and cylinder head , follow Walt and try getting it running .

Walt has excellent suggestions. My 911SC had sat for a number of years before I purchased the car. I had a problem with the air flow sensor. It was not moving freely which was caused by the grease which had dryed out on the pivot shaft. The Haynes manual covers this job.