1979 SC Chewed a Valve - Total Rebuild

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally Posted by rwest

I always wondered about the use of Loctite on engine parts as the temperatures would be likely so hot as to render the locking effect null. Am I correct?

Different LocTite products have varying operational temperature ranges.
Generally speaking, 911 engine temps will not exceed the operational range on most LocTite products.
Choosing the correct product for each application is generally made easier by the manufacturer's build criteria but with some applications, experience is key.

[OsoMoore]

Lots of scraping gently at the old sealant on the case edges today. Right arm is a bit sore!
I have a plastic "razor" blade, but there are a few tough spots left that aren't coming.

There is also what looks like old JB Weld or some such on the outside, maybe stuck there to try and cover some leaks? I'm chipping it away from an outward angle to avoid any contact with the case mating surfaces.

Supertech kit comes next week, lube and such comes Friday. Hopefully putting together the crankshaft this weekend, crank case next weekend.

[OsoMoore]

Putting the crankshaft together this morning!
I have OEM rod bolts they came assembled from the shop but of course I'm taking it apart to clean and put on the crankshaft.
So what should I lubricate these bolts with? The consensus seems to be that I shouldn't use loctite. But I got the bolts from the shop already inserted and initially torqued, so of course I had to take them off. Should I just use some engine oil? Should I use my permatex assembly lube? Should I bolt them on dry?

The lubricant they have on them now will likely be washed off by my brake cleaner and alcohol as I clean everything.

[OsoMoore]

Trying to find moly paste locally, so far nothing.

Really hoping I'm not going to have to wait for an online order.

[brighton911]

Those JB weld spots on the cases are likely the recommended repairs for known leak areas.

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by brighton911

Those JB weld spots on the cases are likely the recommended repairs for known leak areas.

That seems possible. I know the original rebuilder made some fixes that way.

Here's what I was able to pick up at the Honda Motorsports store.

[OsoMoore]

Shop guy messaged back, he said engine oil was fine, don't need the special moly lube.

Looking at torque spec, looks like my bolts are labeled "12.9". That means torque to 10.5 ft/lbs and then 90 degrees, twice.

I already tightened to 14.7 per Wayne's book, and then stopped before doing the 90 degrees.
Does that mean I should "back off" to 10.5 ft/lbs and then do the double-90 described in the bulletin?