More HP from 3.2

[Tippy]

Originally Posted by cmcfaul

would love 50 hp from a cam. That's about what I got on the 2.4 E going to a DC 30 cam and higher CR.

Seems there is not a lot Porsche missed with the 3.2. Maybe a side turbo when the engine is freshened up. I did get the ARP rod bolts. No money shifts but do run it deep into redline often as the chip allows with no ill effects so far.

tracking down the last bits (yoke, stand).

Chris

Chris
87 Carrera 3.2

I’ll be selling an air-to-water intercooler setup and Holset HX40 soon for cheap. Made a thread on it in the 930 forum under my name.

Would only need headers (or custom fab stock for a turbine T4 flange) and blow-off valve to make work.

[cmcfaul]

Porsche guy likely doing the head machine work is saying I should replace all head studs. I thought only Delvar studs should be replaced. I think my car has all steel.

Thoughts on proactively replacing all head studs. Would hate to break any in the process.

Thanks

Chris
89 Carrera

[PeteKz]

My view as a mechanical engineer: If the studs are original Porsche steel, and they do not have significant corrosion, keep them as-is, and don't remove them. If significant rust, you and your machinist decide whether to replace. If the case needs the cylinder spigots machined, then you have to remove them.

What does he want to replace them with--Porsche steel studs? Either way paint them with a good paint to protect against future corrosion.

Caveats: This is for a street car with a 3.0 or 3.2 case, not a racing engine. There aren't other factors mitigating to replace them.

[cmcfaul]

That makes sense. See what they look like then replace if needed.

He mentioned ARP and the steel ones with the thread all the way. If just one or a few are questionable thoughts on replacing only the bad ones with OEM studs so everything matches.

Sincere Thanks,

Chris
89 Carrera

[ahh911]

Seeing how easy it is to take out head studs (red loctite requires heat on the spigot, then it comes out like butter with a simple extractor from hardware store, see link below), I'd replace all of them without a second thought.


Straight forward head stud removal using torch and simple extractor:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1048731-broken-head-studs-2.html

Phil

[Henry Schmidt]

Quality rebuilds require quality hardware. We build every engine with Supertec head studs. Not because we make them but because they have offered the best results of any options we've tested. Not just cylinder to head stability but ease of assembly makes them worth the investment. Build it right the first time and enjoy your Porsche for a lifetime.
Available from our host. https://www.pelicanparts.com/search/?q=supertec+head+studs&redir=yes&host=search








Coming soon: Case through bolts that vastly increase case stability. Proto-type below.

[PeteKz]

I am sure Henry's studs are high quality. If you are building an all-out race engine, consider them. For a street engine, they are overkill, IMO. The Porsche steel studs last hundreds of thousands of miles in original engines. How old are you and how my miles do you think you will put on that car in your remaining lifetime?

[safe]

In my opinion overkill is the best kind of kill... specially when the premium isn't that much in the grand scale of things.

I think the "set it and forget it" of the supertec studs are worth it.
My 3.6, pre rebuild (street engine with all steel studs), had cylinder to head leakage and fretting of the surface. Replaced them with supertec, could't be happier.

The 3.2 in my other car also have supertec headstuds, the engine is absolutely dry after 15+ years with tones of trackdays with high heat (250-260 oil temp).

Done ZERO retorquing or even put a wrench on them to see if they would be loose.

[Henry Schmidt]

Here we go again. There are far more considerations to hardware choices than longevity.
In the case of air-cooled 911 head studs there is clamping force, torque consistency, ease of assembly and even spark plug connector clearance in twin plug application.
In every one of these categories, Supertec head studs, nuts & washers out performs the stock steel head studs and relating hardware, offered by Porsche.

How long will you live? That's a pretty stupid consideration given that these cool old collectables often get handed down for generations. I have some customers who are restoring Porsches that were in the family when their grandparents got engaged.

I had one customer who drove his 911 SC almost 120 miles ea way for work and drove it as an everyday car over 75,000 a year. His first overhaul happened around 125K. Broken head studs, a broken valve spring a worn out guides.She was smoking like a chimney. His first Supertec freshen up happened after 250 thousand miles. He drove another 230 thousand miles for the last overhaul. Same head studs but of course all new bearings and other normal wear part were replaced. His 911 warrior is now retired to a weekend driver having been replaced by an Audi TT RS. Cool little car as well.

"Build it right the first time and enjoy your Porsche for a lifetime."

[Mr. Merk]

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt

"Build it right the first time and enjoy your Porsche for a lifetime."

Great advice!

What's your experience/opinion on preferred LSA for the 993SS cams in a 3.2? 12* or 14* and why?

[Ooffenhausen]

If you are doing a top end, absolutely do new studs. There is no reason to not do it while you are there. Like Henry said, it's insurance that you won't get 15,000 miles down the road to discover a head stud or two let loose.

[cmcfaul]

Those rod bolts are tiny.

Will decide on the head studs once I get it apart. I did notice in the pics that the pistons were inserted into the jugs with the studs removed. If in doubt I will replace them with an upgrade. I may go low boost turbo in the future. Car is heavy and needs some HP. Want to see if this rebuild give me anything its been missing.

Thanks,

Chris
89 Carrera