the sealer would fill that space easily. if you could theoretically place the case half on a perfectly flat surface inpregnated with 120 grit, and scrubbed it a couple of times, there would certainly be a few areas that showed less contact than others. there is a machining procedure where the halves are resurfaced and the crank and intermediate shaft bores are honed back to spec, but i doubt you really want to get into that.

Maybe it's overkill but I remove the perimeter studs so I can clean things really well. Then I feel very carefully for any raised "dings".
I've had case halves "lapped" before, that doesn't change the dimensions just removes the high spots.
I would do a dry fit without the #8 bearing. Maybe it's not the case?
-Chris

It's not overkill if #8 leaks....

Just a question.

I'm almost ready to close the crankcase. When I put the to case halves together "dry" (Without crank), the case is not easy to close. I guess it takes some pounding to get the thing to close at the flywheel side. Is this normal? Do you use the case nuts to close the case or should this be done by using a rubber mallet.

Also, after reading this thread and other threads on the topic, more and more I wonder whether or not to use 574. Should I try or go with Dirko or treebond?

Can use some expert advice here.
thx

I just put mine together dry w/o crank last night. Just a little adjustment push with the hand and everything slaps flat together. I would consider pounding with a rubber hammer NOT normal.

The I tap the end of the case behind the flywheel with a plastic mallet when the case halves are almost closed. After that a couple of taps on top is all if takes to completely close it.

It's probably a stupid question, but did you clean out the holes that recieve the perimeter case studs? I'm just theorizing, but I wonder if when you lower the case half onto the studs, the studs might chip off some old 274 and deposit it right on the sealing surface?
-Chris

As far as i can see the perimeter holes are clean. When I put the case halves together, the fan side comes down like a treat, but the flywheel side stops with about 1,5 centimeters of open gap. When i use a hammer it will go down, but that can't be the way.

I'll go and take another look. Don't want to damage anything.

I can only surmise there is a binding with alignment.

the main stud sleeves may have a slight interference fit, which would be normal. a couple of wacks with a plastic hammer seats the halves.

I lapped my case halves. Over time the perimeter area distorts due the the clamping forces of the fasteners. The PO's shop also boogered up the bottom of my case where they had jacked the car up by the motor.

Before it all goes back together I will also bolt the cases together for a final visual inspection and run a bore gauge down the mains just to make sure everything is well within spec.