Head stud choices - Canyon?
 

The way I see it is there are three choices in head studs for my application available on this site. In order of cost they are as follows.

OEM steel studs
Canyon steel studs
Supertech studs

Does anyone have any experience with the Canyon Studs? What I want is a standard steel stud with longer threads on the case side for the Case Saver inserts. My steel studs did not break but pulled from the case.

I know the Supertech are the best but they are 2x the cost of the Canyon and 3x the cost of OEM.

Anyone know the reputation of the Canyon.

Chris
73 911 E Mag case with a couple pulled studs. Slightly higher CR then stock.

The Canyon stud is a direct replacement for the early Dilivar stud. John copied it when he designed the stud.
That means the only choice if you are looking for a longer case thread end is the Supertec stud.
With the Supertec system there is no need to measure stud length so you can run the threads all the way in. With most other stud you have to measure a precise stud height in order to utilize the Porsche Allen head nut.
Another cool thing about the Supertec stud is that you can install the cylinder prior to installing the stud. This makes piston installation considerably easier.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1369169073.jpg

Always worth reading you, Henry.

I have a nice ring compressor, but extracting it around the studs calls for more time and fiddling. Never occurred to me to put the studs in later (though I've never removed studs except on a case I was turning into a race motor). I'll have to give that some thought next time I do all this. Probably will have to purchase another Snap-On stud remover, though, as I don't have the fine thread 10 in my small collection.

I didn't think the cost of the Supertec studs came out to much more than the Canyon steel when you include new nuts and washers in the equation. The difference in cost was nearly negligible between the two and the thoughtful design of the Supertec make it a more attractive option. Henry has also made a point to declare not a single Supertec stud has ever been reported as pulled... no brainer if those are your three options.

Walt, if you used blue LocTite to install my studs, they should come out with relative ease by simply double nutting the stud.
If you need the right thread pitch you can use old 10mm 911 rod nuts.

Another side note is that with this method you can install the pistons in the cylinders on the bench then simply slide the wrist pin in the rod. With the studs removed the clip is considerably more accessible.

Henry - I knew there was a reason to keep those old used rod bolts and nuts. I tell my wife all the time that you never know when you will need something for some other purpose.

But the good kind of stud removers spoil a guy.

I am going with the OEM Steel Studs.

Here is my reasoning.

OE studs $238.08 vs $637
My studs did not fail in any way. The case failed to hold them. Case Savers should solve this problem.
My engine is a close to stock 2.4 E so not alot of HP.

The money saved is going into the case to have it repaired completly, with shuffle pins etc.

Chris
73 911 E
73 911 E

Lapkritis you are magnanimous