3.2 engine re-seal tips? While I am in there...

[gliding_serpent]

Hi guys.

I have a US 84 3.2 58k miles on it, and to my knowledge, has not been opened. It uses about a quart of oil every 1000miles (or maybe a bit more oil), but I have only used it 1000miles since ownership, so there could be play in that number. It does not smoke, but it has a good amount of leaking in my garage. Compression numbers were all within 10 of one another but were a bit lowish in the 150-160 range. PPI leakdown was 5% across the board. I had it repeated locally by a non-porsche mechanic, and it was 5-8% (the original PPI was a bit i question in my mind). The worst numbers were repeated with the engine re-warmed, but I am unsure if it was properly warmed.

My local air cooled expert had a look at it and advised a total engine reseal given that it is 30 years old for prevention as much as anything, but a few lines had decent leaks. He could also hear that one or two valves needed adjusting (last done 7K miles ago). I ordered a complete engine gasket set (H-100-907-04KTN) here on PP. What is the benefit of the newer OE black rear crankshaft seal vs the brown one in the it? "Note: This kit comes with the original brown rear crankshaft seal.~If the current OE black version is preferred, also order~# 999 113 426 41."

Are there thoughts on anything else I should order or consider doing at this time?

- I am backdating my heat and adding SSI's also so I have arranged for those parts also.
- I will also clean up the fan/shroud/intake and do some general cleaning and such.
- I have new engine and transmission mounts.
- I do need to order a new 02 sensor with a longer wiring harness for the SSI's.

[gliding_serpent]

A bit off topic, but an interesting list of common neglected maintenance.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/189572-long-term-commonly-neglected-maintenance.html

[911pcars]

One adage is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

88K is fairly low miles. Since your leakdown results are good and the oil leaks (not specified) can be easily repaired, I'm wondering what's the rush? This is a classic slippery slope project. YMMV.

Go ahead and proceed with upgrades and external maintenance and save the new gasket project (or whatever) until it needs it. By that time, you may want to go with a 3.6 for the same money. In the meantime, enjoy the ride.

Sherwood

[gliding_serpent]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

One adage is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

88K is fairly low miles. Since your leakdown results are good and the oil leaks (not specified) can be easily repaired, I'm wondering what's the rush? This is a classic slippery slope project. YMMV.

Go ahead and proceed with upgrades and external maintenance and save the new gasket project (or whatever) until it needs it. By that time, you may want to go with a 3.6 for the same money. In the meantime, enjoy the ride.

Sherwood

PPI identified leaks in the timing cover, oil pressure switch vs oil thermostat gasket, seeping of valve cover gaskets. I updated the original post. 58k miles, I made a typo. Original service records verify this number.

I will talk to my mechanic about what he means by a "complete reseal," as I agree, it seems a bit excessive to do everything without fully rebuilding the engine. His point was that the seals were 30 years old, so it is best to do now, independent of the miles. He is also not the type of guy to take me to the cleaners. If anything, he discourages me for going overboard (as he did with the gearbox for this car).

[Mitch1]

I would definitely lesson to Sherwood ' s advice. None of that stuff is major. I would do my build differently now with what I know.

[gliding_serpent]

My OCD is making my eye twitch, but I agree, fix the leaks and move on.

[Jeff Alton]

Leakdown does not show valve guide wear, but does give an indication of how the rings are doing on an aircooled motor. If compression is good and leakdown is good, then likely the guides are gone or going with that oil consumption (or oil control ring is worn). You are right at the max spec for oil consumption....

So, if you are going to tear the whole motor down to replace all seals (not sure exactly where it is leaking) then it would make sense to inspect all components and at least have the heads rebuilt.

If it is only leaking at the easily accessible locations like your posts suggests then just replace those gaskets and seals and carry on until oil consumption gets worse.

Putting a used 3.6 in is a tough comparison money wise. Yes, you could buy a used 3.6, ECU, conversion parts for close to what a rebuild would cost, but what condition is the 3.6 in??? That is the BIG variable.... Sure wouldn't be good if the 3.6 needed the same work, or even in a year or two....

[Jcslocum]

Fix the most obvious and urgent leaks. The Triangle of Death is the 1 place to look hard at to see what's going on. It can be done with the engine in on a 3.2 if you only go after what is leaking. Mirrors will help you see back there. You could get on of the cheep borescope setups to really look back there.

If it aint leaking, don't fix it.

I would clean the engine up and see exactly where it's leaking. A small steam cleaner and gunk degreaser is perfect for this task. Cover up the tender electrics and get it really clean.

I would drive it a LOT and enjoy it. A car with this little miles needs some exercise!!!!

[gliding_serpent]

Well good news. After my last oil change i did not check the oil level. Spoke with the mechanic who did it (i had him do it with leakdown and tranny fluid) and he forgot to tell me it needed 1 litre more than what i gave him. It was at the low line post oil change. So when i added a litre (the oil was also at the low line when i checked) it was not because a litre was lost in the last couple of months (500miles). It didn't move much i suspect.

Thus i do not think my car is using significant oil. This saves me 5-8k in a top end rebuild as it suggests my valve guides are probably fine. That being said, next year i will keep a closer eye on things.

Spoke with the guy that will be doing the re-seal. He advised he will not be doing everything top to bottom, just the leaking parts, and the common trouble areas. He advised i get the entire kit because it tends to save compared to buying everything seperate.

The 3.6 swap is an easy 20k + assuming you can get an engine at a good price that does not need a rebuild itself. If i ever redo this engine, i might drop in euro pistons. I have my eye on a local sorted 3.6 sc. Cheaper to let someone else flip the bill.

No worries about use. I took it to a hpde a week after i got it, and after that have been driving it as much as possible. A popular unconfirmed rumor is that i may have stretched out fifth gear in higher rpms a few times. It will go into storage till the spring, but i have put on as many miles in the last two months as the prior owner did a year.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by Mitch1

I would definitely lesson to Sherwood ' s advice. None of that stuff is major. I would do my build differently now with what I know.

A lot of people were advising against fixing too much. This is usually the opposite of Pelican advice, which is "while you're in there"

Can you guys clarify what you were advising against, specifically? It asn't 100% clear to me. Did you feel it was a waste of money to remove the engine just to do some reseals? Just let the oil leaks be, and drive the car until you really need to remove the engine?

[Jcslocum]

I would fix what's needed to make it safe from bloin up and drive it.

I did forget to add that the fuel lines should be replaced...if they are original.