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-   -   911SC Engine Removal (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=862356)

Farrell 04-25-2015 07:54 AM

911SC Engine Removal
 
Hi All

Its my first time removing the engine in my 1982 911SC, as I really need to replace the airbox due to a backfire. I know you don't HAVE to remove the engine, although i have a Oil Pressure switch leak i believe, coming from the triangle and i figure i may as well just pull the motor and clean up the whole triangle area.

Heres my list of things to replace at this time:
Oil Pressure switch
thermostat O-ring
Oil Breather Hoses
CIS intake manifold hoses
oil cooler seals
Adjust the valves or replace Cams with 964 or webcam 20/21
Replace pulley seal
Fix heater boxes
maybe a stater rebuild?
SSI
M&K Muffler
Wevo motor and trans mounts

Also, im thinking while I'm in there ill powder coat the valve covers and all the engine tin as well as the fan. Clean up the motor while I'm doing all this maintenance.

Did i miss anything?

Now my real question is, I was thinking of dropping the engine and the trans at the same time (3.0 with 915), is this easier than dropping just the motor?

I just picked up a set of 46mm PMOs, so i wanted to install those and a set of cams, i haven't found too many great write ups on replacing just the cams, i just know you need the special Porsche P202 tool and the 46mm crawfoot wrench. how difficult is it to time the cams? what cams do you guys recommend? Webcam 964 grind or a 20/21? I've heard they are relatively the same?

i have an USA 911SC so, i think i need to port the intake heads to 40mm from 38mm? i can't remember the exact number, but i was told it can be done with the engine on an engine stand flipped upside down. is that ludicrous or doable?

thanks for your help in advance!

Dpmulvan 04-25-2015 08:03 AM

Your probably going to find some broken head studs if the dilivar head studs havnt already been replaced. You might as well do the whole motor,clutch et,et,et,. Maybe enjoy the Michigan summer and wait till winter.

Farrell 04-25-2015 08:39 AM

i was thinking that too, its not driveable with the cracked airbox at the moment, thats what needs immediate attention to get back on the road.

ill start with draining the oil and pulling the valve covers, but i bought the car 9 months ago and when i had the PPI i had no head stud issues. so, it should be the same still considering it hasn't been driven in 6 months due to winter.

Trackrash 04-25-2015 10:54 AM

Do you have Wayne's "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines"? If not, it is available on this site and a must read.

Farrell 04-25-2015 03:15 PM

Ya, I've read it. I was curious if it was easier to remove engine and trans together or separate engine from trans? Is one or the other faster and or easier?

Cheers

Trackrash 04-25-2015 04:37 PM

Much easier to remove together. IMO

You probably have the small port heads. I think that 46 PMOs may be a bit large, depending on what cam you plan on using.

With the stock pistons, you are limited in what cams you can use. Stock pistons also limit your engine's rev limit to near stock.

When porting the heads you need to match the manifolds.

You should talk to your cam grinder about your planned use for your motor.

Farrell 06-28-2015 07:27 PM

Got some progress done today. Rebuilt the heat exchangers, nobody will see these once their in the car, but it needed to be done.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1435547245.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1435547283.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1435547745.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1435547786.jpg

Picked up some new ducting as well, as the old ducting was falling apart.

Painted part of the alternator housing as well.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1435548358.jpg

Been cleaning everything, mostly the engine bay right now so, I can repaint it. Incredible how much grease builds up in the engine. Also, cleaning the glue from the sound pad sucks.

I was thinking of painting it black, original color is grand prix white. Gonna paint the car back to original color in a year or two, but not for concours reasons. Mostly cause I like white cars. So, white or black? Any recommendations on prep? Bring down to bare metal? Just Bristol pad?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1435548422.jpg

Speed Buggy 06-29-2015 04:36 AM

Cam timing slowed me down on my rebuild (fear?) but once I got into it it was pretty straightforward.

Dpmulvan 06-29-2015 03:35 PM

Stripping engine bay down to bare metal is a huge PIA.

Flat6pac 06-29-2015 04:15 PM

Power wash with a quality detergent is far better than trying to strip paint.
Bruce

Farrell 07-02-2015 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flat6pac (Post 8689106)
Power wash with a quality detergent is far better than trying to strip paint.
Bruce

This is what I was thinking.

Would you guys replace the starter or alternator while your in there? Do they tend to fail often?

Farrell 07-02-2015 08:15 AM

Also, since ill be running carbs now do I just plug my O2 sensor? Or do I continue to use it?

Dpmulvan 07-02-2015 09:28 AM

No need for 02 sensor if your running carbs

mreid 07-02-2015 09:47 AM

The alternator and starter are both fairly easy to replace withe engine in the car. I say leave them unless you have an extra $1,000 hanging around.

Craig 07-02-2015 11:13 AM

Farrell,
Another suggestion for 'while you are in there' is to replace the fuel lines in the tunnel. I have not replaced mine yet, but I have heard it is a PIA.
Can't remember the person's name on this board that makes great replacement lines that are compatible with today's gas, but someone else will chime in with it.

Craig

Farrell 07-02-2015 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig (Post 8693531)
Farrell,
Another suggestion for 'while you are in there' is to replace the fuel lines in the tunnel. I have not replaced mine yet, but I have heard it is a PIA.
Can't remember the person's name on this board that makes great replacement lines that are compatible with today's gas, but someone else will chime in with it.

Craig

Nice suggestion, do these go bad since they're metal lines? I know Gordo did a sweet setup with AN lines.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/809009-6-fuel-line-plan-cis-pmo-carb-conversion.html

Good to hear that the alternator and starter can wait. It was in my cart and around $700 so I wasn't looking forward to that.

Happy 4th all!

Craig 07-02-2015 01:21 PM

Farrell,

Here is a link to the fuel lines I was talking about. You may not have these 'problem lines'. This thread explains things pretty well.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/662846-fuel-hoses-911sc-tunnel-motor.html


HTH, :)

craig

Farrell 07-04-2015 10:19 AM

So while I wait for my engine harness to come back from Dennis (Timmy2, insane turn around time!:D) I stripped the engine bay in anticipation if re painting this.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436033883.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436033937.jpg

It's hard to tell, but this whole trunk was black with grease and crappy spray paint.

Now I have read that many people were just having their paint color mixed up, add some thinner to it and then roll it on with a foam brush. With the thinner applied they said it should smooth out and look real nice. Anyone else do this?

Paint in this order?
Epoxy primer on bare metal
Body filler or undercoating for texture
Paint
Clear

Dpmulvan 07-04-2015 12:10 PM

I would use a single stage paint.

mreid 07-04-2015 01:36 PM

And use a Preval sprayer. It is perfect for this application and will look great.

Farrell 07-05-2015 06:50 AM

Good stuff. I'll get some paint mixed up this week.

Never heard of a preval sprayer before, they look incredible. Can't believe I haven't heard of this before!

Thanks Gents

MetalDoc 07-05-2015 07:50 AM

Hi, I thought I'd add this link for you. It was difficult to maneuver a conventional spray gun around in there. I managed to make it work.

Paul

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/849040-will-paint-stick.html

Farrell 07-05-2015 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MetalDoc (Post 8697030)
Hi, I thought I'd add this link for you. It was difficult to maneuver a conventional spray gun around in there. I managed to make it work.

Paul

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/849040-will-paint-stick.html

Great thread Paul. Did you have to spray any undercoating for texture or just 2k sealer and single stage?

MetalDoc 07-05-2015 04:05 PM

Hi Farrell, All of the undercoating was in good shape. I just degreased, cleaned and scuffed up, more than once. The texture from the original undercoating is still there. Both the sealer and color coat were single stage with appropriate amount of hardner added.

Farrell 07-06-2015 05:32 AM

Wonderful thanks Paul. ill get some paint mixed up today.

thanks!
Farrell

Farrell 07-30-2015 02:37 PM

So, i just got the motor mostly back in the car, but the final bolt on the drivers side engine mount won't tighten all the way. the holes are half an inch from lining up perfectly and with all my pry bars and extra hands i can't get it to move anymore. does it have to line up exactly or can it be pulled into place? is the motor just off center and thats why the bolt won't fully tighten?

do you put the transmission mount bolts in first or vice versa?

jkh2cpu 07-30-2015 04:15 PM

Motor mount problems... Look at those motor mounts. You will see
that they are bolted to the car and the cross member on the transmission.
My trick is to loosen up those motor mounts so you have some slop
to work with. It's much easier to get the bolts started in to the car
if those motor mounts have some give... Tighten up those motor mounts
after the bolts are in.

HTH.

Farrell 07-31-2015 06:01 AM

cool, ill loosen all the bolts up today and try to get her in place.

thanks!


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