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Oil Filters - Spinner or Element for R1100S?
The dilemma before the real subject: How to approach all of you who hunger to jump down throats if there is more than one thread per subject! :confused:
But I also know some of you cannot resist commenting to these types of things altho you appear to try as seen in oil and other multiple thread.....threads! :D "I MEAN YOU NO HARM!" SmileWavy :D I have searched for oil filters, filters, oil change, Mann filters.....etc etc and nowhere (with my decroded mind) do I see straight out answers for the following: For a 2004 R1100S BCR, do I have a replaceable element in a cannsiter or do I have a spin on 'throw away' filter? (thrown away properly of course) That SOUNDS stupid enough, but I dont want to take it apart until I know what to order. This is its first oil change (630 miles on bike!) so all this is a learning curve unfortunately. So before all of you murder me, please allow a couple of questions..... :) Do I NEED to stick with an element or should I replace it with a spinner? Is it threaded for a spinner if it is originally an element? Is the K&N (KN 163) style spinner with the built in hex a 'favorable' way to go? Do I need to buy 'crush washers' or o-rings or other to change the oil and filter? I have searched and cross referenced some of the oil filter part numbers provided for this bike. Some of the cross reference searches on p/n's do not match up with p/n's some of you have provided - as some of you know. Just to have fun and hopefully have one thread or post with a bunch of oil filter part numbers for the R1100S - lets resolve as much as possible right here and edit this list as we go if possible. Most of the following numbers are from you guys but accumulated here: If they are wrong - lets fix them right here for everyone, please? Some of these may be elements and others are spinners(?) - You tell me and put what it is out next to it in a reply. BMW 11 42 1 258 039 Mobil M-102 Purolator PL 10241 Bosch 72161 Mahle OC84 Mann W712/6 Delco PF53 K&N 163 NAPA 1348 I hope this helps and doesn't offend too many of you. :) |
Order it from BMW dealer and don't forget to get the new crush washer for the oil plug. They also have the oill filter wrench 3/8's drive thingy to take off the old filter and install the new one. Don't forget to torque both the plug and the filter correctly.
Oil filter 11 Nm Oil drain plug 32 Nm |
You have a canister type oil filter, PN # 11421460845.
Change it every time you change your oil. This might start something, but I believe in using the BMW oil filter, and not an off brand. JUST MY OPINION. The BMW oil filter sells for under $15, you can get a POS Fram for under $5. To me it's not worth it, oil is the life blood of the engine. If you want to save money, buy Autolite 3923 sparkplugs, but don't go cheap on an oil filter. |
Jerry, I believe Fram makes filter for a ton of OEM applications... that's what I use... also, in line with Bubba's recommendation... get a whole box of crush rings for the drain plug at Harbor freight... the box costs 4 bucks and has an assortment of different crush rings and if you go and get one from your BMW dealer you'll pay a buck 95 for ONE ring!
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Alot of people have posted not having any problems with aftermarket filters.
My opinion and why I use BMW: Different filters, different designs, different papers, different pressure valves. I looked up info on the Mobil M-102 and it's geared for automotive use. Someone asked Mobil if it was ok to use on a motorcycle and Mobil said it's not wise since it was designed for different oil pressure. Safest bet is to use BMW or OEM (Mann or Mahle depending on bike/model). Order them from Chicago BMW discounted. They've improved their turn around time for orders. Much better now. |
I've always heard, "the cheapest thing on a BMW is the rider".....
Go BMW for the oil filter, cut your expenses elsewhere. |
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I keed two on the stock shelf so I never get caught short.
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Now Jerry Duke ain't so cheap that he'd use no recycled oil filter. lol
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I've had no problems w/ the K&N (kn-163) filter. I've been using them since I started having to safety wire the filter for track days. However, the last batch of K&N's I ordered had no nut on the end. They were plain, just like the OEM filter. A 3/8" nut and some JB Weld cured that problem. The OEM filter wrench still fits over the nut.
--Jim |
Fram filters -- at least the usual orange ones -- are remarkable pieces of junk. Cut one open and you might decide to use a coffee filter and duct tape instead :-)
Somewhere out there is an excellent web page where a guy has systematically dissected a large number of cartridge filters and it's worth a look. Until reading that, I used to use Fram filters on my cars. Never more. |
This is insane! We spend thousands of dollars on an engineering marvel and then nickle dime about an oil filter! YGBSM. LOL
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I'm still laughing about that "cheapest part on a bmw" post.
HILARIOUS. thanks roger |
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You mean like this one? http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/ |
GotRoad, yep that's the one. Thanks.
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do not use cheap oil filters i used an stp in my car once and when i changed my oil the paper was ripped to shreds stick whith bmw or k&n
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Guess I'll call these guys in Chicago but it should be easier online..... |
From the box on my shelf. I try to buy them from Chicago BMW 6 at a time. With their slow delivery I may run close, but not out......
Here's a site that will help. CLICK HERE to enter, then enter the last 7 digits of your VIN: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ BMW doesn't make changes just on their year model releases. They also make changes/corrections/modifications etc. during the entire production run. Your VIN shows what exact parts were used to make your bike, or something along those lines. |
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