Throttle Body Sync

[nathanmargolis]

A buddy of mind who is quite capable, synced my '04 R1100S a few years ago and have only clocked about 3.5K since then. Have several other bikes and cars.

Bike runs excellent but idle is too high. Guess we did it and bike was not fully warm.

Buddy has since moved and I do not have needed carb sticks and dealership is not convenient to get to plus they want me to leave it for a few days

Question- Would it be crazy to turn the brass screws on each throttle body a quarter of a turn on each unit until an idle of approximately 1,100 RPM is achieved. If so, which way should the screws be turn? Clockwise or counter clockwise.

Currently the bike idles at 1,700 or do you think this could be achieved by adjusting the cable but then if not mistaken that could get them out of sync.

Appreciate your thoughts.

Thank you,
Nathan
Houston, Texas

[Groceryrun]

Screw in the brass screws clockwise to decrease the idle.
I would recommend doing it after a ride so that the bike is warmed up.
I'd shoot for 1,100 to 1,150.
If you do the work inside a garage use a fan.

[kroberts]

According to the manual, idle speed is only adjusted with the bleed screws, not throttle cables. Unfortunately you do sorta need a twinmax or some other sync device. 1700rpm is waaay high. I'd be curious to know how far out yours are turned. Mine are a bit over 1.5 turns out from closed and my bike idles at about 1250-1300.

Gently close them both and run them out 1.5 turns each...then go buy a Twinmax.

[JimMoore]

Yes, you can cetainly try that. If you con't like what happens, just put them back. Two things to consider. First, you can buy materials to make a very accurate manometer for about $10 at the local hardware store. There are directions online. Second, I don't thinkyyou have enought "throw" with the screws to bring the idle down to an acceptable range. I think something else is going on. The throttle is hanging up, or the lower cables are too tight.

[brentw1]

yes sounds more like a cable problem,
are both sides closed to the stop at idle?
or can the be turned more closed by hand?
don't bother with the brass adjustments unless both sides are closed and resting on the stop.

[brentw1]

I use the digital version of the twin max, so you can ride with it and check the balance
at several load and throttle points.

[Chris Canning]

Originally Posted by brentw1

I use the digital version of the twin max, so you can ride with it and check the balance
at several load and throttle points.

Yea but can you buy them anymore?

[tic105]

Quote de brentw1

I use the digital version of the twin max, so you can ride with it and check the balance

at several load and throttle points.

Yea but can you buy them anymore?

Yes - check out Max BMW

[brentw1]

http://www.amazon.com/Tecmate-TS-111-TecMate-CarbMate-Synchronizer/dp/B0022XTDQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419651787&sr=8-1&keywords=carbmate

[Chris Canning]

That's not the one I was on about it was this one

ADVrider - View Single Post - Harmonizer Vacuum Multi-Tool -- It ain't your Daddy's Twinmax

And the one thing the Twin Max instructions do not mention to do a proper job you need two pairs of hands well at least 3 hands

[brentw1]

yea I know the advrider one is not being built as far as anyone knows
but the normal commercial one works great not as cool though
we do electronic fabrication but he never got back to us about us making some for
sale.

[Meeni]

You can make your own sync tool:

* take about 3 meters of clear plastic tubing
* make a U, scotch it to a metal ruler or some stick
* fill the U with automatic trans fluid
* connect both ends of the U to the nipples
* do the adjustement procedure, you are set right when the liquid is "pumped" to the same height in both tubes

(if the ATF enters the engine, it will be burned and won't cause damage).

[iminspaaace]

Originally Posted by Meeni

You can make your own sync tool:

* take about 3 meters of clear plastic tubing
* make a U, scotch it to a metal ruler or some stick
* fill the U with automatic trans fluid
* connect both ends of the U to the nipples
* do the adjustement procedure, you are set right when the liquid is "pumped" to the same height in both tubes

(if the ATF enters the engine, it will be burned and won't cause damage).

This is exactly what I did, and it worked great. Easy, quick, and I had almost all the materials laying around my garage. No need to shell out for an expensive twinmax (unless you really want to). I found the setup to be quite sensitive to small adjustments, and resetting idle and partial-throttle settings made a massive difference on my bike. So much smoother and more responsive now.

[Chris Canning]

Screw both airscrews in and remember how many turns then unscrew them all the way and clean the carbon that will be on the ends and refit them.

Start from cold you'll have less than 2/3 attempts before the bike gets too hot and bothered.

Fit the Twinmax and follow the instructions in 15 years I have hardly adjusted my left side airscrew I've always adjusted the right side too it.

After you have settled the tick over refer back to the instructions and have A.N. other hold the throttle at 4000 again you'll ajust one cable and turn up the sensitivity to get the best results the problem comes when the bike has got hot you will have to get your finger in to hold the adjuster it's that sensitive on the twin max that even tightening the locking nut will take it out of adjustment so you have to be one flat out so it ends up in the right position.

[Meeni]

Took a picture of my homemade throttle sync tool:

[ajs18s]

Ok, first time to do a throttle body sync, I pulled both bodies of to clean them as there was a build up of a blackish, sticky crud. All back together no problems, now with my homemade throttle sync tool set the idle speed no problems, I did how ever adjusted the cable on the LHS but just a little, I was happy with myself as I set the adjustment at 2500 and 4000rpm. It idled and sounded nice. Test ride for 5 minutes and all good. This morning I was about for about 25ks from home, and was nice and warm, then spluted quite aggressively and felt like it almost stalled, for about 5 seconds, was sitting at about 3000 rpm. I was out for about 1 hour and it continued, at different speeds and RPM's.
The bike also use to unobtrusive backfire and pop when closing the throttles at high RPM's but no more....
I have only had the bike for around 12 months and has 65,000ks on it, when I first put the sync tool on it it was way out of adjustment and also feels very lethargic.
Hope my rambilings all makes sence

[JimMoore]

That sounds more like a bad fuel filter.

[scottamann]

Or, a vacuum leak somewhere...

[ajs18s]

Well i think you are on the money scottaman, I have a very bad habit of leaving things loose. A clamp on the front of the throttle body was still loose. On my day off this sounds like an excuse for an extended test ride.
Cheers guys.

[ajs18s]

So I replaced the fuel filter and still no good. Turns out it is the "magnetic gate"
With the bike running I wiggled the lead behind the V-belt and the bike kept cutting out.
Arrrrr.