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Jerry (guest)
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Thank you so much for the article. I found it necessary to punch the back bushing even further than just loose, to maybe 1/18 inch. Then remove the long bolt. This allowed me to slip a small thin steel pry bar between the engine and alternator to balance the alternator while I rotated it clockwise. Both in and out were a breeze with the back alternator bracket fitting easily under the engine mounting bracket both in and out. The key tool that helped me the most the heavy duty paint finish remover tool that helped balance the alternator and minimize finish damage to all parts involved. Secondarily, I worry about future replacement due to the Bosch Bushing design. I did not do a metal analysis and so maybe it will be of no concern. However, rust, corrosion, whatever, does happen and I visualize the bushing spinning once corrosion starts on the bolt threads. Maybe a light thread surface treatment would be helpful for the next alternator replacement.
20-20 hindsight: I’d suggest a protective cloth to cover both the engine front and firewall. The alternator hits the firewall while the electrical connectors are removed and removes the paint on the edge of the firewall. That will rust out at the edge.
Thanks again for the article. It’s first Porsche I’ve worked on and never been beaten by an alternator. But this one came as close as any.
Thanks again for your help
Jerry


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This post was auto-generated based upon a question asked on our tech article page here: Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Alternator Replacement - 986 / 987

Old 12-18-2011, 01:02 PM
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